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Angry Northerner
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

Looking for some pointers to help me get my Gixer 6 running again. I went out on it tonight and it was running fine. After 20-ish miles I noticed the clocks (OE) weren't working although the bike was running fine. No idiot lights, no rev counter, no speedo, no indicators, nothing. As it was still running and riding okay I thought I'd just get home and investigate then.

As I'm riding along in 4th the engine starts to slow so I knock it down to 3rd but it continues to slow until it dies. I'm doing 20-30mph at this point so I dump the clutch to try and bump start it but it won't fire up. I pulled over and switched the ignition off and then back on again... nothing. No idiot lights, no rev counter sweep, no digital display so I switched it back off. After a minute or two I switched the ignition back on and everything on the dash lights up as normal. I hit the starter and there's a click, buzz and then nothing. Suddenly the previously bright neutral light is really dim and the digital display has gone off again. Switched it off and back on and it all comes back to life once more Hit the starter and it's back to square one... nothing!

Got recovered back home and I've only checked main fuse and battery connections for now, which were all okay. Any ideas what might be causing this? It's obviously electrical but where to start?! :confused:
 

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Dead battery, not being charged by the alternator. Check out your alternator connections, recharge the battery, start it and measure voltage right at the alternator terminal, should be at least 13V otherwise you have a bad alternator. If it's okay then you'll have to dig into your wiring a little deeper.
 

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Angry Northerner
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324 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That is low. Not sure it would be enough that all your electrics fail but it is low.

It sounds to me that it's a flat batt / charging problem too.

When you get the batt charged again and can get the bike running, I've found this useful before:

https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
Ace. Thanks for the link. Just printed it off so I can use it once the battery is charged up.


Is the neg. cable tight on the battery?
Yep, both cables were good and tight and didn't look corroded at all. This was the first ride of the year so the bike's been sitting since before Christmas but it started first time. However, it's still on the original battery (13 years old) so maybe that has got something to do with it.

I'll report back once I've had a chance to use the fault diagnosis sheet that Cookie linked to. :)
 

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Small update. The battery is on charge for now but I checked the voltage in it before I took it off the bike and it had 11.6v in there. Doesn't seem that low. :confused:
Batteries will recover voltage when they are dead if they aren't providing current. That's why the lights come on for a second after you shut it off. If you had measured voltage at the battery when you had it powered up it would have read probably 5-6 volts.

Wow, 13 years on a battery? Think it's time for a new one.
 

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Angry Northerner
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324 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No progress yet, thanks to the missus!!! :hairpull: She was in the garage earlier doing some sewing (it's a big garage and she has a sewing table set up at the back). Anyway, she finished what she was doing and switched everything off just after lunch... including the battery charger! :doh: :oops: I didn't find out until about 5pm and it wasn't fully charged!! FFS!! :mad::2up:
 

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Angry Northerner
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324 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update

The bike had it's MOT booked on Tuesday so I called them to say I would probably need to cancel. I explained the problem on the phone to the mechanic and told him that it was still on the original battery (the bike's 13 years old!). He was gobsmacked when I told him that and said that it was very possible the battery was fucked. He said if I could get to the shop on the charge that was in it they would have a new one prepped and charged ready to bolt on. So, as the bike shop wasn't that far away I was confident the battery would last long enough to get me there. It did... only just. The clocks and electrics died about half a mile from the shop although the engine was still running and as I pulled up outside the bike shop the engine cut out! Jammy fucker!! :fu:

The good news is the bike passed the MOT, the bad news - the new battery didn't solve the problem. Thankfully, this is a really good, old-fashioned bike shop and the mechanic did a few tests on the electrical system for me while I was there and it points to the generator being the problem. Or at least, the connection between it and the Reg/Rec. He even got a brand new Reg/Rec off the shelf and plugged it in to see if that would help but it didn't change a thing. So he said I'd need to check out all the connections running from the generator when I got home. He would have done it for me but it meant taking bodywork off so it was too awkward. What a fucking star! :party-smiley: :yeah: In the past, when the bike's been there for an MOT and the headlight alignment has been out, they've adjusted it... for free, and then passed the MOT. Top service and a friendly bunch. :thumbsup:

All this advice, help and testing was done without any charge to me as that's the sort of bike shop they are. Fucking spot on! We've used them for years and will continue to do so. Just for the record, they are Hammonds in Cirencester. Family run and owned since the 50's and the best bike shop I've ever been to bar none! :)

:myhijackedX: :D

Anyway, I now need to investigate the genny and find out what the fuck's going on. Hopefully I can get to the bottom of it and get the bike back on the road soon.
 
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