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First off I practiced on a few junky bike parts and random things before hacking into a perfectly good part.
This isn't how the pros do it but how I along with many others do it to get the best results with a rotary tool.
Different substrates will react differently so to speak. For example you'll need to give it more gusto for steel than aluminum.
I use a little rotary tool similar to a Dremel with a variety of engraving bits for different line thicknesses.
The main thing I do that makes all the world of difference is make a template in photoshop or a drawing.
I tape it on or use spray adhesive and if it's a small part I put it in a vice.
for nice straight lines I use a cylindrical bit at a 90 degree angle to the line and gently work it up and down. I rotate the part as the lines dictate and take it slow and easy.
See how the bit is sitting on the caliper? Imagine it well in my rotary tool and going up and down.
Also I use two hands with the tool and one is resting on the part or table. This substantially increase stability and decreases fuck ups.
I just make shallow cuts either on a freshly painted part for contrast or fill in the engraving with paint and a brush or rag wiping the entire area which leaves paint in the crevices and wipes it off the top.
For shading I just do a cross hatch pattern but there are a variety of methods. (Google it)
Also god forbid you fuck up these are pretty shallow cuts so file or grind the area down and take another crack at it or leave well enough alone.
This isn't how the pros do it but how I along with many others do it to get the best results with a rotary tool.
Different substrates will react differently so to speak. For example you'll need to give it more gusto for steel than aluminum.
I use a little rotary tool similar to a Dremel with a variety of engraving bits for different line thicknesses.
The main thing I do that makes all the world of difference is make a template in photoshop or a drawing.

I tape it on or use spray adhesive and if it's a small part I put it in a vice.
for nice straight lines I use a cylindrical bit at a 90 degree angle to the line and gently work it up and down. I rotate the part as the lines dictate and take it slow and easy.

See how the bit is sitting on the caliper? Imagine it well in my rotary tool and going up and down.
Also I use two hands with the tool and one is resting on the part or table. This substantially increase stability and decreases fuck ups.
I just make shallow cuts either on a freshly painted part for contrast or fill in the engraving with paint and a brush or rag wiping the entire area which leaves paint in the crevices and wipes it off the top.
For shading I just do a cross hatch pattern but there are a variety of methods. (Google it)
Also god forbid you fuck up these are pretty shallow cuts so file or grind the area down and take another crack at it or leave well enough alone.