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You're spot on, it's steel. I think it needs replacing though, doesn't look straight from right to left. Good excuse to get a whole back end hehe. Is there a solid way to test if the swing arm is alright?
arm out, put the wheel spindle and pivot spindle back in, sit the ends on 4 blocks of equal height,it shouldn't rock. Or put a digital angle finder on the pivot tube, zero it and sit it on the wheel spindle. It'll be a little off, but not a lot
 

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On some research .... swapping swingarms is a BIG job! Way outside of my capabilities and probably cost with all the tailored modification required. Testing the swing arm first, hopefully it's straight enough to stay on the bike for now, seems like they're pretty tough.
you sure? pretty sure bandit 12 arms fit bandit 600's pretty easy


read this
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
you sure? pretty sure bandit 12 arms fit bandit 600's pretty easy


read this
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you sure? pretty sure bandit 12 arms fit bandit 600's pretty easy


read this
Nice that's actually accessible! The ones I'd looked at when swapping to a GSXR / R6 required loads of fannying about.

Just bought a second hand rear wheel cos mine has a fat dent in it
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
This is where I'm at at the minute. Seriously cleaning every nook and cranny, having a mare with the block trying to remove that shitty paint. Soda blast on the 4th, couple bolts/rubbers to replace then back to building!
Motor vehicle Wood Wheel Art Flooring
Automotive tire Plant Fence Wood Road surface
Wood Automotive tire Wheel Flooring Floor
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So it's all back from powder coating 🤩 apart from the wheels lol.

Piecing it together as we speak, still undecided about the final look - was thinking to go for a cafe racer style but now the frame is painted I don't wanna start chopping bits off! Let's see where it takes us!

Been down to Newark autojumble today, jeez there's some pretty things down there!
 

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A rough idea of frame alignment can be gained by getting the whole bike upright in a stand. Centealise the bars and take a string line around the outside of front and back wheels, once you've got the bars straight (second pair of hands is useful at this point) measure the gap between the string and the rear of the front rim and the frontof the rear rim. If the frame forks and swing arm are true the gaps should be equal left to right. If not something is pissed. Make sure the rear wheel is equal in the tensioner slots before you start. If it doesn't measure equally then the next step is probably to check the fork alignment (bent or twisted) and if thats ruled out you'll need to get the frame into a jig for a proper alignment check but if its only been dropped and not stacked the chances are it's likely to be fairly straight. Rear sub frames can get pushed over to one side but thats easy enough to check with a tape (take diagonal measurements) once the plastic is off. Same goes for the swing arm. Stsrt simple and pull it out and take diagonal measurements. If its within a couple of mm you should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
A rough idea of frame alignment can be gained by getting the whole bike upright in a stand. Centealise the bars and take a string line around the outside of front and back wheels, once you've got the bars straight (second pair of hands is useful at this point) measure the gap between the string and the rear of the front rim and the frontof the rear rim. If the frame forks and swing arm are true the gaps should be equal left to right. If not something is pissed. Make sure the rear wheel is equal in the tensioner slots before you start. If it doesn't measure equally then the next step is probably to check the fork alignment (bent or twisted) and if thats ruled out you'll need to get the frame into a jig for a proper alignment check but if its only been dropped and not stacked the chances are it's likely to be fairly straight. Rear sub frames can get pushed over to one side but thats easy enough to check with a tape (take diagonal measurements) once the plastic is off. Same goes for the swing arm. Stsrt simple and pull it out and take diagonal measurements. If its within a couple of mm you should be fine.
Cheers for the advice mate, that's gonna be the next step then before putting it all back together but I'm hoping it's pretty straight, had a small stack from previous owner but not much damage :) im still more concerned with the aesthetic even though I'm nowhere near done yet XD
 

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Have a good look at eBay, there are some aftermarket bolt on seat units for bandits that will make it look different.
Cafe racer style is getting soooo last year's trend and most look sh#t on oil cooled inline 4 bikes.
Next time you build a bike you need to sort out the style you're going for before painting it ;)
Looking nice and clean thow
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Have a good look at eBay, there are some aftermarket bolt on seat units for bandits that will make it look different.
Cafe racer style is getting soooo last year's trend and most look sh#t on oil cooled inline 4 bikes.
Next time you build a bike you need to sort out the style you're going for before painting it ;)
Looking nice and clean thow
Aye I've realised that now XD it's my first build so I've been pretty gun ho about it, just wanted to learn more about bikes first :D I'll check out some after market stuff though 👍
 

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We all have to start somewhere and sometimes jumping in is the only way to learn. I've been building bikes in my samll garage for well over 25 years and I'm still learning. Every day is a school day lol
 

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Absolutely. I've been working on bikes on and off for about 20 years and I'm still learning too. Screwing up and re-learning in some cases... The key for me is, take your time, think about it, sleep on it if not sure. Often clearer in the morning. The worst thing I do is working too late at night to finish something. It's generally when I screw up. Get a manual - I moan about Haynes but they're actually pretty good if read carefully, take loads of pics from different angles as you strip, label everything (a dymo printer is handy) and keep the bits in separate labelled boxes. Much easier when trying to figure out how it goes back together...
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
All was going well today, rear shock reassembled, rear caliper back together with new seals. Then I moved onto the forks. Had trouble getting the tube in and then out of the stanchion. Looks like the residue from powder coating on the inner of the stanchion has bit into the tubes :S
Is this gonna prevent the seal from doing its job?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I've got scotch brite and wet n dry but yeah I'd rather not add more scratches. Do you have any experience with things being powder coated? The tubes don't seem anywhere near as free as what they did before having the stanchions done.
 

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Have they powered coated the inside of the bottom of the forks?
Did you give them the forks complete or did you strip them down?
Most good power coators will mask off any internal parts.
If they have and you're putting new bushes in as well this will make things very tite.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Not powder coated the inside and I stripped them down prior so they just received the stanchions.
He didn't mask off the top of them though and there was grease/build up shit lining the inside. I cleaned what I could reach and made sure the seal recesses were completely clear before putting the tube in.
Haven't put new bushes on but it's stiff and buggery, twists alright but doesn't want to travel.

I pointed the jetwash on the inners and clearly still hasn't got all the grime out
 

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If they didn't mask off then you will has a load of blasting grit and power coating in there which could do a lot of damage if not cleaned out, problem is it will be all the way down and if the grit they blasted it with was still in there when they put the power coat on, that would of coated the grit and be very difficult to remove and could be the reason you've got them scratches in the stanchions never mind them being tite.
With out damage to the new power coat on the outside I myself don't know how would be the best way of removing it from the inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
That seems to be what's happened then sadly :/ I managed to get the top couple inch pretty darn clean so maybe a wire brush down the inside is the way to go?
What's your suggestions even if it damages the powder coat?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Don't clean it off with abrasives and risk damage. Some acetone on a rag will dissolve it and let you wipe it away.

Like cleaning a gun barrel, soak your rag and run it back fork with a stick until things turn up clean.
Never cleaned a gun barrell but I get the gist, that's gonna be the first point of call tomorrow morning then! Tonight it's beers and getting my feet up 👍
 
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