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lb/hp is what it's about!
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Not to stress the lengthiness of this discussion thread, but supermotos are a foreign language to me concerning suspension. I'm trying to figure out what would be the best street performance suspension modifications for this build.

I've adressed racetechs website and got;

.58kg/mm front forks (closest .5kg/mm)
.55kg/mm rear shock (closest .5kg/mm)

Progressive suspension springs seems to be the all around, multifaceted, basic everyday rider suspension. I have seen medium and heavy duty springs, but it seems as if the light duty springs are the only ones available for purchase. Sort of makes sense to me to go with the progressive suspension due to the riding style, but can I manipulate these progressive springs to be stiffer through spacers or valving?

Need one of you suspension nutjobs to lay it on me... As I'm forcibly not pulling the trigger, until i get some guru guidance...
By switching to a cast sportbike front wheel you will be lowering the front of the bike and changing the rake angle. When you decrease the rake angle (making it more vertical) you don't need quite as stiff fork springs. Racetechs website and the new spring rates they give you after you put in your weight assume stock geometry so if you up the spring rate it will feel stiffer yet because of the new rake angle.

Medium, heavy, and light duty springs don't mean much without numbers attached to them. For all I know the light duty spring could be the spring in the blow off valve for your Bandit and the heavy spring could be from my neighbors F-350 (I know this isn't the case). Keep in mind that the stock suspension, rear especially, was really soft from the start. Before I started tearing into XL600 I could bottom it out by bouncing on the bike. Spacers in the forks will allow you to add preload but that only gets you so far.
 

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GOOROO of da POO POO
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
By switching to a cast sportbike front wheel you will be lowering the front of the bike and changing the rake angle. When you decrease the rake angle (making it more vertical) you don't need quite as stiff fork springs. Racetechs website and the new spring rates they give you after you put in your weight assume stock geometry so if you up the spring rate it will feel stiffer yet because of the new rake angle.

Medium, heavy, and light duty springs don't mean much without numbers attached to them. For all I know the light duty spring could be the spring in the blow off valve for your Bandit and the heavy spring could be from my neighbors F-350 (I know this isn't the case). Keep in mind that the stock suspension, rear especially, was really soft from the start. Before I started tearing into XL600 I could bottom it out by bouncing on the bike. Spacers in the forks will allow you to add preload but that only gets you so far.
+1 on the rear... All of the reading I've done as of yet states that I should invest in a heavier rear shock as well... Most that have input suggest a heavier CR500 shock (with xl linkage) at the very least. Issue that presents itself here are the pod filters... The shock sits nice and pretty right between the two of them, so remote res might be essential. This bike will see tarmac 99% of the time, which calls for rigidity in the rear as well...

I stink I'm just going to get it to a rideable state, then adress suspension. Think I'll have a better perspective on where to go from there.
 

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GOOROO of da POO POO
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3,701 Posts
Discussion Starter · #43 ·
I have the same mic as you. Looking forward to seeing this finished up man!

Nate
I love my little Lincoln mig... I got 2 (one I'm babysitting), both loaded up with different filler; silicone bronze, and the other stainless... My real workhorse is the Dialarc, I found some 1/16 inch electrodes for the frame work. It was challenging setting the heat right, took me a bit on some practice tube but got things to where I liked them...

The other epiphany, which made stick welding the frame easier; using a small electrode, the stick hot starts... So no need to strike an arc! Just touch the joint, and lay weld... Took me a bit to realize this, so the welds aren't as pretty as I'd like, so I've got some grinding to do...;)

As soon as I get an LLC, which is currently in the works, I will invest in a scratch start tig setup on the dialarc... Then, hopefully a HF box to weld aluminum...
 

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GOOROO of da POO POO
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3,701 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 ·
i cant believe im just getting around to seeing this!

and this...


is gonna be fucking badass
Yeah, that's me playing around on sketchbook... the rc8 tail is just beyond my fabricating abilities... Especially when it comes to laying glass, let alone the more pricey carbon fiber.




If you can picture her; with a speedholes and a cokewhore, binge fit, daddy issue...:thumbsup:

That's more along the lines of what route I'm going with the tail.. As this must adhere to the minimalistic nature of the fight.
 

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GOOROO of da POO POO
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3,701 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 ·
What don't you like about the gt650 wheel?
It doesn't jive with the eye, and looks like a mismatched wheel.....lol...

It's growing on me... trying to source a vfr / f3 wheel... Think it's gonna look a lot cleaner.;)
 

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GOOROO of da POO POO
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3,701 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 ·
So, some things on the build burner; input would be highly appreciated...

Forks; through research, I get the gist that the last few years of the cr500's conventional forks were some of the best forks in the models history, far better than the first few generations of USD equipped models...

Just to play a little back and forth, what are some better options regarding front end swaps? I'm not totally closed minded in regards to options, as the CR500 front end didn't break the bank. I just want to pay attention to the market and see if I can scoop up a GOOD set of USDs....

Also found a cool website for a great lot of sumo machining modification... Seen it before, but never really looked at what was available...Solves my current axle spacer needs :D...

http://www.flattrackaccessories.com/FWheel.shtml
 

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lb/hp is what it's about!
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10,448 Posts
Supposedly the CRF250/450 usd front end will fit with very little mods. I think just new bearings but I'm not 100% on that.
 

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jANITORIAL TECHNITION
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1,138 Posts
Also.... Chaney is one of the top dogs in the ind. as far as flattrack parts. Also you ever consider 19" wheels? I myself love the look of them on a moto.
 

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GOOROO of da POO POO
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3,701 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Also.... Chaney is one of the top dogs in the ind. as far as flattrack parts. Also you ever consider 19" wheels? I myself love the look of them on a moto.
Budgets sort of keeps me in the realm of the 17... Also gives me a wide variety of wheel choices, minus the hassles of tube tires...
 

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GOOROO of da POO POO
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3,701 Posts
Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Also, is there anybody out there familiar with carbon fiber gas tanks, and how the industry coats their insides? If I'm going to do carbon fiber, I want to do it the right way.

I want the materials schedule to go like this;

1) Dynel- easy to lay, stretches, conforms. *Cure

2) glue on any necessary aluminum mounting/ support tabs

3) Kevlar 2x2 twill *Cure

filler, sand,

4) Carbon Fiber *Cure

HLVP Candy (neon lime)

then use Redkote on the inside of the tank....


Should be sufficient schedule and inside coating? I don't see it costing over 2 bills.
 

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Jarhead Supreme
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6,487 Posts
The thicker the better for the coating on the inside. If gas makes its way to the resin, it will start to make soft spots. I know a guy with a CF tank on a thruxton that had this problem and he fixed it eventually. I'll see if I can get in touch with him and figure out what he used.

I wonder if kevlar is a bit overkill on a non structural piece. It definitely will make it more rigid and durable, which is good. I can't guess how much weight it would add. Not that much, less than steel, a few more than CF.
 

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GOOROO of da POO POO
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3,701 Posts
Discussion Starter · #55 ·
The thicker the better for the coating on the inside. If gas makes its way to the resin, it will start to make soft spots. I know a guy with a CF tank on a thruxton that had this problem and he fixed it eventually. I'll see if I can get in touch with him and figure out what he used.

I wonder if kevlar is a bit overkill on a non structural piece. It definitely will make it more rigid and durable, which is good. I can't guess how much weight it would add. Not that much, less than steel, a few more than CF.
It's more of a "contingency" reinforcement material... The two are both rigid when cured, but CF is more apt to crack like an egg on high impact stress. Kevlar would be like a safety glass coating (glass necklace type not the break into a thousand pieces type) that's less prone to puncture, and reinforces the impact weakness of the CF....

If I were to go down, Id rather I have a mangled unusable tank, than be cooking with gas...:D
 

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30,379 Posts
I am going to use Caswell to coat my tank. That seems to be the most common coating used, at least from the random tank builds I have come across. Most of the plastic tank Ducati peeps seem to use this on their replacement tanks.
 

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GOOROO of da POO POO
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3,701 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Man! You stole that frnt end! Are those triples adjustable?
Honestly, I dont know man... I've never been in the ball-park to even give them a once over... All I know is that they're very sought after setups, far beyond my wallets reach...


I have this nagging feeling that I'm going to get a message saying, here's your refund... lol
out of the 2100 or so people that viewed that ebay page, I was the first and the last to see it @ that price... I don't know if he was liquidating his stuff or what? I google the product numbers and viewed a past ad that had the front end priced @ $549...?
 

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lb/hp is what it's about!
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10,448 Posts
Man! You stole that frnt end! Are those triples adjustable?
No, they are likely just billet aftermarket. If they were adjustable he probably wouldn't have even got the triples for what he paid.... unless they're bent...

Just do the normal/easy stuff to check for a straight front end. Since there is no axle, try sliding one in. Try sliding the forks out of the triples. Cycle the forks and feel for any abnormal friction. Check the triples around the steering stem to see if the Al has been deformed. Put the triples on something flat and see if the fork and stem are perpendicular.
 
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