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GURU
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ONLY OFFICIAL BUILDOFF UPDATES SHOULD BE POSTED IN THE OFFICIAL BUILDOFF THREADS!!! ALL DISCUSSIONS SHOULD BE POSTED IN THE BUILDERS DISCUSSION THREAD! ANY POSTS IN THE OFFICIAL THREADS FROM ANYONE OTHER THAN THE BUILDOFF THREAD AUTHOR, WILL BE DELETED.

ALL DISCUSSION ABOUT THIS BUILD SHOULD BE IN:
enrico vespa's 2005 Suzuki SV 650 : "BACARDI 151" Discussion

That's the name of my project unless I figure something else better.

Found something better than REZA-WREKT-ED 101

2005 SV650, I think it's the only vtwin so far.

So welcome to my build off.

Originally it looked like this.



Then on a sunny July day, someone blew a stop sign. I went through the guy's window. The glass cut the left side of my neck open, cut the nerves that go down to my shoulder and arm. The cartilage in my throat was fractured, they needed to cut a hole in my neck and connected a tube so I can breath. While at the hospital I had no intention of getting back on the bike. When I was released, the Doc told me my left arm would be paralyzed for life.

Eventually I got the bike back from the towing place. Bent forks some scrapes and bent shifter. I realised sitting home wasn't doing anything for me so I started repairing the bike to resell(the other guy's insurance was giving me a hard time).



Here's a pic of the M4 exhaust on the bike. If you notice, it doesn't fit flush with the undertail. Personally I like it at that angle and how it's above the seat. The pipe was for the wrong year.

"BACARDI 151" begins....




Why 151? Well the story of Bacardi started in Cuba, they were pretty successful for the time being. Then Fidel came into the picture and took everything, their factories, their land, and bank accts. The Bacardi family was left with near to nothing but the will to succeed. That's when they left Cuba and went to Puerto Rico. There, they planned and rebuilt. New factories, new plants and a new strategy to make Bacardi what it is today, the most succesful rum on Earth.

My Fidel was a toyota camry that decided to blow a stop sign which took everything from me. My arm, my happiness, but not my will. Just like anything else, we must rebuild. Here is my build.
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I got my hands on an SRAD front end. I always had the Buell headlights, bought them the same day I got the bike. I don't like round lights. After 3 days, the SRAD was on and I zip tied the Buell headlights and fly screen. This is when I started to think if I should ride again. Workin on the thing was more like therapy.




Admit it, you gotta love the clear tape holding the signals.


Anyway, later that day, I took it out for a ride to test everything out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUj3Fe2t6uE

Eventually I got a Tag X5 handlebars and some riser extensions. All the wiring wouldn't reach the new position so after some advice I re-routed the lines.






I took apart the bike, I'll take pics this weekend with a newspaper. I tried fixing the dent in the tank with "Dent King". It's definately a pain in the ass and doesn't work.

Plans:
-change the exhaust cam
-belly pan
-636 rear shock(stock sucks)
-shorter dog bones- to raise the rear
-SS brake lines
-paint the calipers gold
-properly install the headlights
-replace the 4.5" rear rim(160) with a 5.5" rim to fit a 180 tire.
-get proper signals
-maybe get a paint job
-maybe anodize the forks gold
-get an Acewell speedo if there's enough ppl for the group buy

If I happen to get my hands on anything interesting, then I'll put it on also.

PS to the mods- If there's too many pictures, just let me know my options on how I can still have the photos available without straining the server.
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: "BACARDI 151" by enrico vespa

The Green Lantern said:
was it hard to mount up the buell front end?
Yes and no. When I attached them to the headlight brackets, the flyscreen stuck straight up with no angle at all. Then I took a hacksaw to the flyscreen bracket and bent the crap out of it. Finally with that and some zip ties, I got the angle you see. A friend Pat gave me the fly screen bracket from his(he went from Buell to Acerbis) and I'll try it again with some spacers.

Also to take into consideration is there's one side for lo and the other for hi beam. It's supposed to turn on one at a time and not both at the same. I just attached both hi and lo wires to the bikes hi wire so they both are on. But when I flick the switch to lo, they're both off. I'm not going to start looking for the ign line, so I'll keep that configuration and hope I won't have a problem with inspection.

After January 1st, you'll see how I'll do things and see my f' ups as I go along. Hopefully I'll get a lot of tips since thsi is the second time I ever pieced averything back together.

Disclaimer: If this goes anything like the fist time. there will be alot of f'ups.








took some pics today with a paper to prove the work wasn't done years ago and these aren't stored pics....



The bike up on stands with the tubes off.




The 2 dents on the tank were worse, they're still bad. The ding king does feces. The black spots are the burnt rubber from the ding king. Anyone knoe how bondo would work?


The belly pan primed up.


Cheepo SV shock


soon to be installed 2005 636 shock


The state of the art tools I'll be using. :puke:
 

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GURU
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1,858 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: "BACARDI 151" by enrico vespa

Old dogbones
[


New shorter dogbones that will lift the seat an inch. Hopefully I can get them anodized in gold along with the rear sprocket(45t) to match the chain and rear shock.

Brake calipers from a 98 GSXR

The caliper paint


Confusion

If all goes wrong(God forbid), I'm prepared.
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: "BACARDI 151" by enrico vespa

OK today, I decided to do some cutting. Suzuki decided to put a tool box under the battery area. I never put my tools there so it's unneccesary for that space to be in existance. It also covers the view of the rear shock. Since I'm putting in a different rear shock, it would be nice for ppl to actually see it.

Taken awhile ago when I was selling the hugger. Ok it doesn't cover it totally, but it does hinder it from the rear.


The cuts...






All done.



Next I'll be making an attempt at painting my calipers.
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Last week I tried painting the calipers. They looked like shit, horrible looking. I wound up hitting up pep boys and got a spray for calipers. Some burgundyish color. Over the reminence of gold, they look pretty good.

Not sure if I should keep the color and then paint the bike red to match or just keep the bike blue and look for blue caliper paint.

I'll post pics tomorrow night, I have to look for a van to move out. Got kicked out of the girly's apt.
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just finished my diamond plate undertail and painted my calipers(I went with the blue). Hopefully I can find the USB wire so I can upload the pics. Nothin is installed yet since I don't want to take things apart again to do other stuff.

I also sanded my rims. When it gets a few degrees warmer, I'll clean them and then prime.

Then get my forks done with new oil and springs.

change shock

put brakes on.

change cams

sorry, this is just a check list so I know what do do next.
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok , I just found the UBS cable. Here are the pics of the calipers and the diamond plate undertail. I musta forgot to take the pic of the buell flyscreen, so that'll come at another time.

I taped what I needed to tape. I'm not planning to take off the bolts, so I painted them as well. You really have to shop around for caliper paints that come in aerosol cans. Alot easier to wok with than the brush kind that is sold on ebay.

They have a burgundyish tone to the primer since I first had painted them a deep dark red. It really looked good, except my bike is blue. I was thinking of getting the bike painted red(thats why I painted the calips burgundy) but I didn't wasnt to spend more money on a paint job just to be scared to get it scratched. Mind you the bike WILL be ridden and not become a photo op or a bike night biatch.


Yup, that flower print is gangsta, I know.




Now the diamond plate. It was pretty simple, the glare is a lot better in person. I may put it on the bike just to see what it would look like. It would still be a waste of time snce I still have to paint my wheels, reassemble and forget what else I have to do.
The reason the undertail is scratched up is because instead of getting an undertail I was just going to sand prime and paint the undertray to match the red I was going to originally paint it.


I marked some outlinings with a red marker.




I propped it up against a chair to see what it kinda would look like.


It looks better than the picture below because I added some screws on the edges.
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I also painted the Portuguese Pseudo euro JMV belly pan from ebay that everyone hates. I'm gangsta, why go $300 when I can go bootleg for 80?

Primed waiting for the color rite can to come in.


The can with an attachment I got from a national hardware store(no free ads here) so I won't get paint on my hands. I suggest one of these attachments cause painting seemed better since it gave a continuous pressure as opposed to the regular cap.


Painted and placed next to an oem fender. The belly pan still hasn't been clearcoated and buffed.


My trustee in crime gets an award by keeping the gremlins out of the garage.
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It looks alot better in person.

The buell flyscreen originally belonged to a friend Patrick. It was pretty rashed up. I was thinking of sanding it smooth and then painting it. I don't have the before pics but no matter how much sanding I did, those gashes were too deep. So I bolted the diamond plate right on so the flyscreen can still be used.





And my dog again...
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
endo said:
haha, your dog rocks. I do like the undertail and you did a wicked job painting. That's a nice blue colour.
Thanks, The undertail def looks better than the flyscreen. After I put the bike together, I'll see if I keep the flyscreen or not.

I figured let me get goin on the first attempt on swapping the rear shock. I grabbed a ladder and placed it over the rear, attached a few ratchet ties and up it went.






I raised it a bit over the rear stand and left the stand there just incase anything snapps or gives way, I'll be somewhat safe if I'm underneath.



As per the SV shop manual print out, I unbolted the upper shock nut.



Then just slipped out the bolt


Yay, smooth sailing right?
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Then I went after the upper bolt nut of the dogbone, cause as you can see it needs to come off anyway since the lower blot of the shock is right dab in between.


Once you slip that bolt out, both dogbones just swing down. Since I'm replacing them with shorter ones, I was taking them off. If you try to take off the lower bolt nut of the dogbone, you might find that it's a bit tight. With the upper dogbone swinging, the bolt nut was just twisting along with the bolt AND the swinging bones.

I decided to bring the bones up againand just slip in that upper bolt.

I attached a vice grip to the lower bolt nut and started tapping it with a hammer. I moved it a half a turn. I laid down and just used the vice grip without the hammer.


It came off and slipped out that bolt and removed the dogbones.






This is where I came accross my next problem..........


The lower shock bolt will not move.


I sprayed it with some liquid wrench, but no help. I can't use both my arms since my left is kinda shot. Will anything else help i removing this bolt.



Any help in regards to removing this bolt is greatly appreciated.
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok, I finally got that bolt out, I'd like to thank Dudad, Andyauger, TCL, KrooklynSV, DougZ, Variable9, T Furguson, JimDaddy, Northwind, and 929 Adam for the suggestions. Didn't use a pipe or some other box wrench, just a hammer and alil bit of fustration can go along way. If I forgot anyone, I'll post 'em in the final credits when/if this bike ever gets finished.

The shock is out


New shock is in along with the shorter dogbonies(they're hanging down)


View of the side.





One of the nuts seem too close to the dog bone, so I'm looking to get it machined down a 1/4 of an inch.
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok now the wheels. Alot of ppl mentioned to powdercoat. I got to thinkin and wheels come from the factory painted. I know powdercoating is more durable, but I know alot of ppl that painted their wheels and none have had problems. I'm riding a bike on streets, not on an endurance race from Paris to Dakar. Plus my tax bill had alot to do with it.

Credit on the wheels go to a few ppl on the SV board. Read how they did theirs so I just followed the same. Also credit goes to a few ppl here that suggested engine paint in the first place.

OK , I first sanded them



primed them with Rustoleum white prime


and painted them. I painted them while it was freezing. This made the paint wrinkle up, so I wound up sanding them down again and this time put them near a heater.



The paint I used was VHT 500 degree engine paint gloss black, I also had some clear coat, but I really didn't need it so I didn't use it. Again, if you go back in this thread, you'll see the paint trigger thing that I got for painting. It does help with keeping the pressure consistent.
Painted them, took the tape off, they seem fine.


Here's also a before and after pic of my rear sprocket to match the bonies and my DID ERV3 chain. I just placed the sprocket on the wheel to see how it would look with the black background.

before


After



Kinda makes me wanna do my forks except I don't think the gold will look good with a diamond plate flyscreen.

Next on the list :
- paint the lower legs of the forks and lower triple clamp to match the calipers.
- putting the tires back on the wheels and back on the bike.
- align the rear wheel
- put on the new 520 front sprocket
- chain
- my brake lines should be in this weekend, so that will be next weekends job.
- Ride a lil bit
- then putting in the 2002 intake cams on the exhaust side.

Sorry for the timeline, just trying to set my pace.
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK here are the lower forks

Originally I wanted to get them anodized gold like the newer forks. Then I found out how much I owe the gov't. Anyway with the advice of Doug Z I got some "Mother's alluminum polish" and polished the fork tubes. I liked the cleaner look and didn't feel so bad on keeping them the original color. Also if I decide to use the diamond plate flyscreen, it would look better with non gold forks.


I decided to paint the lower ends of the forks.



Taped up and used newspaper to fill in any holes for bolts. Used a piece of cardbord through the slit on the bottom where the pinch bolts go.


Then I sanded and primed em up


Painted and then glossed them



I painted the lower trip and installed the tubes back in.

I received my custom length Galfer SS lines for the front as well as for the rear brakes. This weekend is down time since it's moto gp weekend.

Next week:

- I'll be putting my tires on the wheels.
- Putting in custom bearings and spacers to fit the 95 gsxr rear wheel(5.5 in rim) into the SV650(swingarm was made for a 4.5 rim)
- install the wheels on the bike.
- install the 520 sprockets and DID ERv3 chain.
- brakes and brake lines.
- Hopefully take a test ride.
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The tubes back on the trips and about to mounted front wheel.




Heres when I got the wheel on along with the calipers with Vesrah street pads...



spleeders on the calipers...


now time to put on my Galfer ss lines. I was going to get Kevlar lines, but after some research and ppl oppinions, I decided to stick with ss lines. 2 weekends ago I watched a friend Dave SV put his ss lines on under the direction of another friend KrooklynSV. I tried to remember all there was to do which was pretty simple.



I took out a print out of instructions, just incase I forgot anything.


I attached the lines to the calipers and the master cylinder...


^^^If you notice, I stripped one of the screws trying to get the resevoir cap off to pour in some brake fluid. I didn't have drill out and didn't want to pay $30 for a set I'm only gonna use once.

Lucky for me that Dave still had his when he swapped his stock to a master cylinder from a RC51.
- A lil rashed up, but still works. Hopefully I'll win and replace it with a grenade rez from Motocyco(God knows I need one).
No pazzo or crg's here, just a recycled lever/ master cylinder that was given a second chance on the road that also works and gets the job done. I don't knock after market levers, it's just I can't afford them right now. Iif I find a pair really cheap, then I'll get them. Until then...... I use what works.


Then I attached the Mityvac I borrowed from KrooklynSV....



Pumped it a few times, poured some brake fluid in the rez, and twisted the spleeder with a 8mm wrench 1/4 of the way. Watched the air go through the tubes and waited til it was mostly fluid.

Then repeated the step with the left caliper. I poured some more fluid in the rez since the fluid was going through the system.

I realized the lever was still soft, very soft, I was told that meant air was still in the system. I pulled the brake lever while turning the spleeder a bit and watched more air bubbles go through the Mityvac tubes. Repeated this step on the other side. Now I have a good stiff feel on the front brake lever.

I hear good things about Vesrah pads. Once I get the bike back on the road, I'll see how good they are for myself.
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Now the front brake lines are in and time to zip tie them in place so they're not in the way. I put on my Aztec 8 headlight brackets. I got mine directly from Aztec last year, but when I went to one our sponsor's shop(XPO-SF), I noticed he had them in stock.

Zipties, no weekend builder should be with out them.


Zipped both lines together...


zipped one to one bracket(notice I drilled 2 holes, 1 for the signal, the other for the wire)...



Then the right to the lower triple clamp...


Now, ppl can call me a pussy for using signals, but in NYC, cagers are blind so I'm going to make sure they know which way I'm going. Also inspection is important here. There have been sweeps where cops just pull over bikes to see if they are stolen or legit. I have known of instances last summer where they actually impound the bike for no inspection. Even though it's a ticket for a car, I'm not planning to argue with a cop considering when they tell me to put my hands over my head, I can only raise one.

I decided to get signals from a 636. A friend Joe got flush mounts so he gave me his stock signals. I like the way they look over the stock SV signals. Reason? The way the 636 signals are shaped to match more of the lines of the SV than the round stock SV signals.

The 636 signals have this edge that sticks out....


So I pulled out another important tool for the weekend builder....


Cut that piece off so it can look like this...


Mounted it can be flush with the side of the headlight bracket.


Both signals on the bike. Wiring not attached yet since I need to get a soderer and a shrink wrap.
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
here we go again. I got a 520 sprockets and chain kit. The rear sprocket is already on the cush so now I had to put on the front sprocket.

I had to throw the old rear wheel on for the purpose of taking off the front sprocket.

First I tried the whole ratchet with the 32mm socket... I seen hand power wasn't going to work.


So I got a chair and tried to put my weight on it...


Decided to get a pipe and slipped it over the wrench. It moved, but so did the whole sprocket.


I asked around and Variable9 told me that the rear wheel needs to be kept still by throwing 2x4 between the rim and the swingarm. I made do with what I had. I don't have 2x4's laying around so I used a shovel.


worked like a charm, came right out


old, vs the new


Slipped the new one in



This time since I was turning clockwise, I slipped the shovel under the swingarm to tighten the sprocket nut.
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Nice, tight and torqued



Now that I have the front sprocket, time to get the old chain off and the new one on....
I didn't have a chainbreaker so I have to make do with what I have.

The Hacksaw..


... did absolutely sh*t. I hacked for 15 minutes and it barely made a notch. I put a piece of wood on the swingarm so I don't damage it.


So I stopped fuckin around with this bullshit and used a dremel.....



Like butter yo


I have a friend comin by this weekend to help me put on the new chain since he's got a riviter. Hopefully I won't run into any problems hooking up my lights so I can take it for a lil test ride with the new suspension.
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
In order to put that chain on, I need to put the wheel that I'm planning to put on(95GSXR1100 rear wheel) on the bike. Tonight was a good as any to throw it on. I'm having an issue with the spacers. There's about a cm space from the wheel to the swingarm. So I won't test ride the bike until I get that figured out.



Props go to DougZ for the Pirelli Diablo Corsa, looks real good back there.


While the wheel was on I installed the rear brake line and bled the brake. That way, after the chain is measured and rivited, I can take everything off and mess with the spacers again.

plans:
-chain on
-take the rear wheel off again to get it balanced(the new stick on weights came off)
-get all the signals connected
-put on the exhaust
-Acewell speedo
-then the cam swap
-trip to a place that has a teka box to tune my ecu.

Then it's over

oh, tonight was the first time my bike has been off the stands and I sat on it. The seating is a lil higher than I remember and it actually feels good.
 

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GURU
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Alright I took the wheel off for 2 reasons. I was waiting for an answer on the way the spacers fit and while I was waiting, I'd fit the chain.

I threw on the stock SV wheel and my buddy Alan came by with the chain riviting tool.

First I needed to take off 10 links(chain had 120). In order to do that, I used the dremel to grind off a rivit....


Once a rivit was grinded, we used the chain tool. Theres a part that has a thin spike where you simply screw it into the chain and pushes the pin in the chain out.



Once it's out, it's time to take it to the bike and fit on the master link.


What you don't see and what we didn't take pics of is the tool being used to press the master link onto the chain. One persone would need to hold the link in place while the other tightens the chain tool pressing the chain.

It's important the link stays in position, it was desided to use a vice grip to tighten the master link onto the chain enough that it would say there on it's own while we used the chain tool.
We eye balled it and then used a ruler to measure the space inbetween the links from the rest of the chain to where we were using the tool. After a few presses, it looked ok.


Now the spacers...... now the stock SV rim is 4.5 inches which can safely maintain only a 160 tire. I decided for the 180 since it's alot easier to get from local shops if I'm in need of a quick tire. I've considered that it may give me handling not as good as the 160, but I am also upgrading the rear suspension with a better shock and raising the angle.

Anyway, A guy in Reno by the name of Zoran made spacers that would fit pre SRAD gsxr wheels and fit them into the SV swing arm. I got my hands on a 95 1100 rim and got the spacers.



 
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