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Full Combat Fighter
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I was trying to remove the exhaust on my TL and on the front cylinder flange both bolts snapped with very little pressure. Any ideas how to get the rest of the bolt out?
 

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Easy outs. You will need probably a 3/16 drill bit and an easy out set available at any hardware store. Also some penetrating oil spray. Spray the crap out of it and let sit about 10-20 minutes then drill your bolt out (1/8 pilot hole helps slot) then thread in easy out and twist the bolt out slowly. Hope it helps.
 
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Is my bike ok?
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I've had about a 10% success rate with easy outs. They're the last resort.

Is welding available to you? Slip a nut over what is left and weld it on. And plenty, plenty, plenty of heat. I don't care if you need to go to Lowe's and spend $50 to buy yourself a propane torch, you are gonna need heat. Heat it until the bolt starts to glow, turn the wrench as soon as the bolt stops glowing. You don't wanna try to turn a molten bolt. Directing your heat mainly where the bolt is stuck in the head,not the exposed threads.

If welding isn't an option use a GOOD pair of locking pliers and still plenty of heat.

I cant stress the heat enough. Heat is king in these situations. Even if you have to go the easy out path...heat.

Good luck buddy. We've all been here. It truly does suck. lol.
 

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I agree, easy outs suck. Very difficult to get it to work correctly.

You can make the world's best penetrating oil at home for very cheap. Mix 50/50 acetone and ATF. Remember reading a test by a home machinist magazine of several commercial sprays and the acetone/ATF spray handily won. Just keep it in some kind of sealed container/sprayer or the acetone will evaporate out fairly quickly.

If there's any stud left grab it with quality vise grips, heat as mentioned, and see if you can't get it to move. If there's too little to get a bite on, center punch the bolt and drill it out in small increments. You can try an easy-out, but don't hold your breath.

Otherwise, keep using larger drills until the bolt is just gone, then re-tap the hole and use a slightly larger bolt. And use lots of anti seize.
 

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Perpetual Project
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Try and heat the area, not the bolt. Metal expands when hot so you don't want to expand the bolt, you want the bolt hole to expand.
I work at a tractor salvage yard and taking out (big) siezed bolts is a common issue. Heat with torches is the best way.
 
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Is welding available to you? Slip a nut over what is left and weld it on.
So far this has been the best solution for me. Totally agree. I've got an engine turning up next week that has stuck header bolts. This will be the first thing that gets tried.

Good luck!
 

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Try and heat the area, not the bolt. Metal expands when hot so you don't want to expand the bolt, you want the bolt hole to expand.
I work at a tractor salvage yard and taking out (big) siezed bolts is a common issue. Heat with torches is the best way.
Normally I agree, but this is a steel bolt in an aluminum cylinder head. The aluminum will expand at a faster rate than the steel bolt and it should come right out. I'd bet the tractor stuff is all steel on steel.
 
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As above ..... if you can weld a nut on & heat it you have a good chance of getting it out if not its down to drilling, don't think any old happy shopper drill bits will do though, they wont touch a hard bolt & will burn out in double quick time ...... get decent quality drill bits centre punch the bolt & start drilling small & steady, once you are well into the bolt go up in size & repeat

when you get a decent depth hole a couple of mm shy of the bolt OD you can heat, tap a torx bit in & usually that will allow you to wind the remaining part out which saves drilling & tapping up a size in most cases

Don't break a torx bit though as they are even harder that the bolt, don't ask how I know lol
 

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Perpetual Project
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Normally I agree, but this is a steel bolt in an aluminum cylinder head. The aluminum will expand at a faster rate than the steel bolt and it should come right out. I'd bet the tractor stuff is all steel on steel.
This is true.
 
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