F'dup DR650 Supermoto- Project: Heavy weight hooligan <BUILD THREAD>

27184 Views 37 Replies 2 Participants Last post by Deegy3, May 23, 2021

F'dup

Discussion Starter · Nov 1, 2014

It's time y'all...

:fu:

So here is a up to today wrap up from the thread in the "dirty tard" sub-forum I started.

Started off with two Dr650's and stripped them both down to bare frame and assembled one out of the good parts from both.

Got the two bikes built into one stock example of a Dr650.

Started chopping up a 2013-2014 CRF450 dual exhaust and combining them with a 06-09 CRF250 mid pipe.

Welded the 450 mufflers to the 250 mid pipe. I did this because I didn't want to use the round mufflers off the 250, I wanted to keep the squareish 450 mufflers. The 250 mid pipe is nice because the inlet diameter matched the dr650 pipe unlike the 450 inlet and would be easier to work with. Also gave me more room by the airbox and shock.

Cut some off of the uglier Dr650 head pipe to give me room to run the exhaust.

Zip tied on mock up pic.

Then I got super lucky and scored a warp-9 supermoto wheel set on ebay at a reasonable price. Came with 17" wheels, pilot tires with ~1000 miles on them, corrected speedo drive, warp 9 320 floating rotor and caliper bracket and a shorty side stand. Which as turns out stand is WAY too short, don't know what they were thinking there lol I'll redo that one.

After I put the wheels on and grabbed those pics I went back at the exhaust. It was still incomplete and zip tied on in those pics.

First de-tab the subframe. Things like old exhaust mounts, and grab handle mounts got cut off.

Removed this mount.

Burned in a new one.

So, that leads us up to where I am at today as far as work on the bike.

Here are the proof of date pics to make it all legal.

:rock:

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F'dup

Discussion Starter · #2 · Nov 2, 2014

Spoiler alert: Video at the end of the post. Probably have to click the photo bucket link as I can't ever get embedding right on here lol...

Right so the exhaust situation. Need to bridge this gap.

I cut the inlet end off the muffler and that piece is the perfect diameter to slip into the new inlet end on the CRF250 mid pipe.

With that part cut short I was left with that above gap to bridge between the head pipe and the mid. So I started cutting out the new piece to weld in.

Eventually got the piece down to a good weldable size and had at it burning it in. Not easy on the eyes, but I never claimed to be a good welder lol. Although I have come a LONG ways

...

Once the mid and the head pipe were joined I went about the muffler brackets. I cut the rubber mounts off the old muffler to help dampen the vibes at the mounts.

Out of pure luck they ended up being the perfect fit for the muffler mounts!

Then I went about goobering those in place.

With both sides goobered on both edges this is how they are looking all mounted up!

If you were wondering, here is pics of clearance between airbox, frame, and shock with the new exhaust.

Only less than ideal part is the clamp on the mid, I got it at the only spot that is accessible with any tool and I can just get a ratchet wrench on there to tighten it up. Should've thought that one out a little better, but I can get it tight so oh well.

So enough pics and talking lets hear how it sounds! Personally I love it, not stupid loud not lame quiet...

http://vid301.photobucket.com/albums/nn48/sportychop69/2015%20build%20off/DSCN4142_zpsqrg5c23t.mp4

Thanks for looking y'all, I'll be back later to get the price list posted up....

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F'dup

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 3, 2014

This will be for everything up to today. The rest will be posted as I put it on and totaled at the end.

Price list:
(2) 2001 DR650's $1550
Supermoto wheel setup $750
Crf450 mufflers $275
Crf250 mid pipe $30

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F'dup

Discussion Starter · #4 · Nov 9, 2014

Pic dump time

:fu:

What happend this weekend.

Trimmed the inner fender to get that back in and past the new exhaust.

And she is in.

With that sorted I threw it loosely back together to get some pics. Loosing those grab handles and back blinkers cleaned up the ass end pretty good.

Biggest issue (stupid large tail light and plate holder aside) is the number plates. Left is flat up against the exhaust and right is out way too much for the size of the new muffler. That will be addressed further down the road.

Picked up a black UFO supermoto fender, cause the stocker is a bit huge. I'm sure y'all know how to mark and drill four holes in plastic so lets just stick to the "after" pics.

Picked up a KTM 625smc headlight. I like these because you still get an H4 bulb, so it puts out good light, but it's a smaller package than the stocker.

Stoopid easy to mount. Take off the rubber fork straps and then use those holes to bolt it onto the stock DR650 headlight mount :nuts: Got real luck here.

All I needed to do was add a couple of spacers behind to two bolts.

Pics with it on.

That's about it. Need to move speedo and dash around to clean things up a little more upfront but I'll tackle that later.

Thanks for looking and sorry about all the pics

Parts:
S/m fender $26.95
KTM light $30.00
Spacers and hardware "Free from the parts horde."

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F'dup

Discussion Starter · #5 · Nov 16, 2014

Stuff that needs to go.

Some of what needs to go on. RM250 rear fender, unsure of year I've had it in the horde since the days of my 400.

Chop chop.

Add a little RM to the mix.

Roll her outside for some mock up shots since it's not a snow covered ice berg in CT....Yet...

A before shot for comparison.

Thanks for looking guys. And thanks for the high fives too! Got to get back out and try and figure out just how I'm going to make that new fender happen...

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F'dup

Discussion Starter · #6 · Nov 23, 2014

Had to move this stuff around.

Dash apart with a ruff plan on aluminum... You know, cause ever ounce counts...:fu:

Holyos... And more filing than I would like to discuss...

It fits!

It fits... Again..

Out the way. Speedo next.

Just whipping up a drop bracket, and if you don't have a drill press I would %100 recommend the harbor freight one that I got. So much better than a hand drill.

Bolted up to original mount on triple and some new hardware and spacers on the bottom holes.

That's better.

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F'dup

Discussion Starter · #7 · Nov 30, 2014

Some people build with a plan, some people like me, don't...I tend to just mess around with stuff and when something seems to click I move forward. So today I started messing with the rear fender.

Got some supplies, 2 packs of modeling clay (the stuff that doesn't harden), a clay shaping tool set, aluminum tape, packing tape, great stuff and some glue.

Cut off this cross bar. That was behind the remaining stock fender.

Slid the piece of the new RM fender underneath and glued them at the top where they made contact. Sliding underneath allowed me to shorten the length about 1" from the mock up pics.

Packing taped off the area underneath going from frame rail to frame rail then sprayed the great stuff in. This was done to give the fender some support.

So the "plan" I got is to trim away the foam and then I'll use the clay to reshape the RM fender to tie it all into the stocker. I may have to wait a day or two for the spray foam to harden.

So next post the clay work will begin. Thanks for looking y'all :rock:

Arts and crafts store and Home depot supplies: ~$50

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F'dup

Discussion Starter · #8 · Dec 7, 2014

Cut foam.

Get in touch with my inner 6 year old.

Start working the rainbow technicolor dream fender.

Tools I've been using.

So far I am surprised at how easy this is going. I actually said to myself, "Holy shit, this may just work." It's really slow going, but do-able. As you can see I have a lot of shaping left to do but I will chip away at it. Could only get a little time in today as I had to work yesterday, and I'm fighting mono symptoms... Fucking skanks....

Best part of the clay is the material you scrape off just gets balled up and you can reuse it to fill in low spots and rework.

Thanks for looking and for the high fives and comments! Still don't have a "plan" for the fender but I'm happy with how the clay is working so I feel good moving forward!

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F'dup

Discussion Starter · #9 · Dec 15, 2014

Fender progress. It's slow going, but working with clay is proving to be surprisingly easy!

Had to cut the last bit of down slope out of the remaining stock fender to give me a straight line.

Started removing clay. Used that line as my bottom reference.

Started shaping the fender out.

Got the left side to a good point then started messing with the right side. Still work to be done on both sides, but I'm happy with the progress at this point.

And possible the best part of the weekend. Hooked up a florescent light above the bike, and I picked up a sweet ass table lift for $300 off a buddy of mine! No more working in the dark and no more sore back for me!

Thanks for looking y'all! :rock:

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F'dup

Discussion Starter · #10 · Dec 21, 2014

So remember when I said I didn't have a plan? Well that was really dumb....
I was trying to get things symmetrical on both sides of the fender and trying to work out the bottom edge and it wasn't going good...

Then this happens.

I flipped the fuck out and tore off the clay and ripped that hateful bull shit off the bike.

I reached a low point and considered just buying the $165 dollar pre-made straight fender.

Then after I cooled down I said, "This is customfighters for fuck sake that's not how we do it here!"

So a plan was hatched. Yes now I have a plan...

Center line and outside edges of fender mark out on a Ikea furniture laminated board type of thing and fender piece aluminum taped down.

Marked my fender tip spot using the rest of the stock fender tip.

Use a square and mark reference lines across the board.

Trim the tip piece down a little and slide it under the back half piece. Then aluminum tape it down.

Shit ton of card board and aluminum tape to cover the hole and build the fender tip piece up some.

Start throwing on the clay.

So good news now I have reference lines to see where to stop the different areas of clay work. And I also have a good flange around the edge for my mold, which is a huge improvement over doing it on the bike.

I'll be back at shaping the clay soon and obviously post pics as I progress.

Thanks for looking guys! :rock:

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F'dup

Discussion Starter · #11 · Dec 28, 2014

Another weekend... Of play doh... Starting to get sick of it, but I can see the light at the end of the 'ol tunnel at this point. I will see this through, it may turn out to be crap... But I will see it through.

Then add a fuck shit stack of aluminum tape with packing tape over that layer.

Got to make the mold now. Hoping to do it after work that way I can leave it in the shop to cure where it's warm. My home "shop" will be too cold.

Then... Well it will be sanding the mold. That is going to take a freaking while, I can see that already...

Just need to get this fender done, I want to do other things but I can't let this die because I moved on to other parts...

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F'dup

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jan 1, 2015

Flanges around the exposed edges.

Lay down a couple of layers of glass. I'll try and pop my mold off the board tomorrow.

Home depot mold making supplies from today: $40

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F'dup

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jan 4, 2015

Next post will be an actual fender,

I promise..
These last few posts haven't been too interesting I'm sure. But for now one more on the mold.

Pop the mold off the board.

Sand with 80 grit.
Freaking wavy gravy.

Bondo (or "bog" if you ain't from 'round here) and sand then repeat. And repeat. And repeat...

Lighter bondo is normal two part, darker red is spot glaze.

Pretty much ready to make an actual fender next.

Thanks hanging with me on this! :rock:

Bondo spot glaze: $6.00 (well spent P.S.)

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Discussion Starter · #14 · Jan 19, 2015

Mold primed, black painted (helps to see air bubbles when laying glass), clear coated.

Coated with a light coat of vasoline to help with release.

First layer of fiber glass is the woven cloth, then added three or so layers of loose strand mat.

Pop the fender out of the mold. Killed the mold in the process though. I'll talk about that in discussion thread.

Drill a hole for back mount and counter sink.

Front mounts drilled and nut...thingys<?> mounted on.

Cut off grab handle mounts. Didn't want them on the bike or the holes on the side of the fender.

Will clean up the rest when I prep frame for powder coat.

Mounted.

AAAAAAAAAAnd money shots.

arty-smiley:

Tossed on the cut down side panel just to see how that is looking. Kind of like the cut down look with the straight fender. May have to work with that idea a little more.

Thanks for looking and the high fives! Feels good to have that on the bike, I'm really happy how it's looking...

Home depot glassing supplies round 2: $40

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F'dup

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jan 26, 2015

Wanted to do something that didn't involve the rear of the bike for a quick break.

Needed to get rid of the stock pumpkin blinkers.

So I picked up some universal flush mount blinkers. Then mounted them on the stock hand guards. I know, I did that on the R6 build so yeah not that creative. Use your imagination on the white guards, come finishing time they will be black. That will help the blinkers blend in better.

Light up for reference.

How they mount up. Drill the hole in the guard then threaded post with wires goes through and the large plastic nut goes on. Wires run to front harness out of a smaller hole drilled in the guard. Simple stuff....

Made some head way on this todaay, but have the day off tomorrow so I'll finish then. So next update I'll be dealing the last part of the droopy rear fender. The saggy butt subframe section. :CK187:

Thanks fer loookin'

Blinkers: $16.50

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F'dup

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jan 26, 2015

Right, so cut that shit off.

Cut the bends out of the hoop.

Split hoop down middle.

3/4" steel tube, cut down the weld seam.

Clean all the metal, use 3/4" tube for inserts at the new seams. Cutting the tube let me slide it into the joints.

Burn it in and clean up my "welds"

This was the first time I welded round tube. It was a little tricky for me. Some welds looked really good some not so much. But it's burned in and solid and everything cleaned up ok.

Slap on the fender.

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F'dup

Discussion Starter · #17 · Feb 1, 2015

Had hoped to get more done this weekend, but you know how that goes.

I did how ever manage to get my china special integrated tail light and plate holder mounted.

Cut these tabs off.

As luck would have it they're the same thread pitch as the bolt on the light. So move them into position and weld in.

Bolt up the light like so.

Here's a tip for welding. Some of you may find it handy. My ground clamp isn't big enough to go around the tube diameter of the frame. So I use a hose clamp around the frame and clamp onto that for the ground. Works really well.

Here is a pic from the ebay ad if you want to know what it looks like light up.

Tail light: $12.99 (I hope it works for a while, lol)

Thanks for looking and for the high fives!

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Discussion Starter · #18 · Feb 8, 2015

Was talking about it in the party and bullshit thread, so I'll give you a recap in case you didn't see. The brake part of the brake light is beyond horrible it's scary. I'd say skip this light if you are looking for a integrated tail light for your bike. Unless you like fucking with shit to make it work, in which I do so here is what I got.

Wired in a brake light flasher. This will pulse the brake light for me with one of ten patterns you select.

To select the patterns wire the green (or just touch to ground) to a momentary switch. While holding the lever down push the switch (or touch wire to ground) to go through the patterns.

Now, this did help. But it didn't really solve the real problem of the intensity of the led not increasing much on the change from running to brake.

So a new plan was hatched. (1/16" aluminum, because you know..race bike.)

Cut it out pop a bend on the bottom.

Drill some holes and put on a red 6 led strip I've had in the parts hoard for years.

Wire it up to the brake light. it's a 3 wire bar, so the two + leads were joined together for full bright.

Much more comfortable with that, it is super noticeable with the flash patterns. Infact you hardly notice the tail light change now.

So in the end the light is ok at best, the running light and the blinkers are actually good. And the brake light can be made better, but I'd still avoid it like the plague.

Thanks for looking everyone. I tried to upload a video of the flasher but it's failing,, but there are a bunch out there on youtube. I personally think they're worth ever penny.

Brake light flasher: $18.95

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Discussion Starter · #19 · Feb 8, 2015

Figured I'd do this in a separate post.

I think a lot of people run into this problem but I don't see too much talk about it here.

So you throw on your new LED blinkers and integrated tail and all of a sudden all the blinkers light up at the same time when you try left or right. The problem comes from voltage going from one side to the other through the indicator bulb in the dash.

The fix is cheap and easy. Go over to Radio Shack and get two 1n4001 diodes.
Around $1.50 for both...

Pull your dash and cut the two wires for your blinker indicator.

The two diodes go on the two wire from the harness. Grey stripe on diode goes with the flow of current. So think of the grey stripe as the out.

Connect those together and attach to one of the two wires on your indicator bulb.

Next step I got lucky and had an unused connector from the factory I could steal the ground off of. So take the remaining wire from the dash and put that to ground.

And that's it... Your blinkers should now blink separate again. It will not solve the rate at which they blink, that you will need a led specific blinker relay, but it will solve the other problem.

Hope this helps someone out eventually. I know a lot of you are like, "Yeah no shit, everyone knows that."

Diodes: $1.50

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F'dup

Discussion Starter · #20 · Feb 14, 2015

Super cheap, supermoto junkie axle sliders.

Most of what you need. Skateboard wheels, threaded rod....nuts,,,

Rear broken down left to right. Nylon lock nut, flat washer, skateboard wheel, flat washer, hex nut on threaded rod. Same on opposite side, 3/8" hardware and rod. Vinyl hose over rod is 1/2" od and that takes up the gap inside the axle. Nut side of axle has 3/8" hole but the other is 1/2".

On.

Front's setup.

Only able to use 1/4" on front due to hole in axle. Hoses go together and in the right side hole in axle. Reduces that to the 1/4" needed.

Washers fit in wheels.

Goes on the same as rear with the hex nut and lock nut on both sides, but had to add nylon spacers to get them away from the forks.

Both on.

Skateboard wheels: $7.00
Misc. home depot hardware: $10
(to be fair it could be cheaper but I buy more than what I need just to have it around)

Thanks y'all!

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