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Rage of the
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All from Denver!

First, a little intro about this build thread. This is my very first bike. This will be entirely a "learn as I go" process. I have very little access to tools, little mechanical experience, limited funds, and don't even have a garage. With that in mind, I'm going to do my best to pour some love into this machine and make it my own.

Second, this bike came from very abusive and neglective owners. It's been stunted, crashed, and poorly maintained to boot. She's got a lot of problems, half of which I didn't know about on purchase, but for 1300 dollars, I still feel good about it.

Here goes nothin.

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Here she is: immediately took all the fairings off, half of them were held on by zipties.


Here's a list of the problems I've found so far:

Frame is cracked in two places. Here is crack #1


Zoomed in on crack #1


Crack 2 is in the same spot as crack #1, just on the right side of the bike


Rear caliper mount was bent inward, and was rubbing against rotor.


Dented tank


The exhaust/muffler coupling has been bent, and previous owner tried some whacky weld fix. Works ok for now, but will need to be addressed.


The rear sprocket had 3 teeth literally snapped off. Two were adjacent, the other was by itself.


The chain alignment with the rear sprocket is off. I have checked the axle adjuster settings and they are the same on each side. This has me worried that the swingarm may be tweaked. Thoughts? Any way to check this?


The chain has a pattern of abnormal wear markings on every other pin. Probably due to the bad sprockets.




Unfortunately, I don't have pictures of everything. The tires were in dangerous condition. Dry rot, steel bands showing, even a screw sticking out of the front tire. The radiator was hung on by zipties.

After a lot of forum searching, I've decided to take the bike to a aluminum welding specialist to see what they can do for the cracked frame. Will post soon on some of the fixes/changes that I've done so far.

Thanks for reading.
 

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Registered
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101 Posts
Welcome welcome! looks like you and me are in the same boat as far as limited tools, funds, and no garage. Ill be checking in to see how your build goes :)
Good luck!
 

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Bitches love Fighters
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5,325 Posts
id be on the lookout for a new frame, then tank, then caliper hanger. you can probably fix the exhaust by bending it back and using some type of gasket. as far as chain and sprockets go i would look at the front sprocket and see if the wrong offest was used. they all need to be replaced anyways. but thats farther down the list then the frame and caliper hanger. im sure the frame could be welded but im not knowledgable enough in regards to alli welding to give advise.
 
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Macaque
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946 Posts
id be on the lookout for a new frame, then tank, then caliper hanger. you can probably fix the exhaust by bending it back and using some type of gasket. as far as chain and sprockets go i would look at the front sprocket and see if the wrong offest was used. they all need to be replaced anyways. but thats farther down the list then the frame and caliper hanger. im sure the frame could be welded but im not knowledgable enough in regards to alli welding to give advise.
I agree with all of that. A cracked frame is generally trash. That bike looks tweaked and bent all over the map, $1300 seems like a good deal for the seller...

If the motor is good, you still have lots of solid parts. Get yourself a new frame somewhere.

Enough with the negative, welcome to the world of two wheels!! :thumbsup:
 

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Do a skid!
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2,821 Posts
Holy shit! welcome into custom fighters mate,

I personally wouldnt even worry talkin to a welder, just new frame soon as ya can.

and then sort the brake issue.

Dont know how to help with the alignment, perhaps its as simple as incorrect offset on the sprocket (hopefully)

Zorst is a easy one, just lop it off and new slip on time!

Good luck, and keep us posted, lotta kwaka guys here will give you a hand with whatever you need, this place is good like that!
 

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The Glistening Turd
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2,983 Posts
Welcome in, and agree the rest, I would take the wheel off and look that swing arm over real good for creasses or cracks in paint. It seems it is shifted to the left with the rubbing brake hanger and odd chain line.
 

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Rage of the
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks everyone for the welcomes and support. I've done heaps of forum searching on welding cracked aluminum frames, and quite a few people are confident welding it if the cracks are not too severe. I've taken the bike to several shops in town regarding the cracks, and many recommended a aluminum welding specialist that does work for them. I took it by this motorcycle welding specialist and he said it would be no big deal at all. 60 dollars. I feel very safe with this option given all the input i've gotten. Also, I will keep an eye on the welds to make sure they are holding up over time.

On to another topic: my bike is a CA model, which has a TON of extra emissions hardware in it called the "evaporative emissions control system". I have not found any how-to's on it's complete removal, but I think I've found out how on my own. Here is my plan:

First, a couple pages from my service manual showing all the extra stuff on the CA model




Here is the separator which will be removed, it connects to the canister which will also be removed. The lines which come from the gas tank will be plugged. There is one line which goes to the left carb, and it will be removed and plugged at the carb.


Here are the lines coming from the carbs. All will be plugged.


Here is the carb hose which is already plugged


Here are the carb vent hoses which are currently connected to the vacuum valve. Vacuum valve will be removed and carb vent hoses will be routed outside.


Here is how my carb vent hoses will be routed


Another shot showing the vacuum valve and 2 of the 4 carb hoses which will be plugged.


Here are the components that are taken out during the kleen mod. Removing my evaporative emission control system will involve taking these out as well. Note that these components are included in non-CA models.


A close up of the previous picture


Let me know what ya'll think. I'm actually feeling pretty confident about this now, will let you know how it all turns out.
 

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Rage of the
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Vent the carb breathers backwards, you don't want any positive pressure in the bowls or you'll have epic problems, unless you're running ram air?
Thanks, will definitely watch out for that.


Okay, so I busted out the rest of the emissions removal this afternoon/evening. Here are the progress pics.


Here is that huge canister which got totally removed


Here is the separator and tubes which went to the canister, all got removed


Look at all that space!!


Here is where I should mount smog block off plates, but guess what?? nobody sells 02 zx6r plates anymore... people say they do, but all pictures of their product shows square plates.


Mine are clearly not squares... solution?


Tada! It was free and I didn't have to wait for shipping!


Capped off the airbox hole


Capped off gas tank holes


Also while the carbs were out, I gave them a good cleaning.

Threw it all back together ANNNNNNND, she won't start. Tries to, but no ignition. I think this is because fuel is not in the float bowls from the carb cleaning. Ran out of time so I couldn't test this theory, but will check it out tomorrow.
 

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Rage of the
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
About that bent rear brake caliper mount - i decided to be ballsy and just bend that dude right back. Took a 2x4 and stuck it through the rear wheel from the left side, put the end of it flat against that caliper mount and gave it a few solid whacks with a hammer. Here's the before and after pics


Before


Before


After


After


Really happy with the outcome. Breaks are working great. No more rubbing. All it took was about 2 mm shift. In that last pic, you can see where the rotor was rubbing into the the caliper. Stupid dangerous fix? Maybe, but I'm happy.
 

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Rage of the
Joined
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Some are really gonna hate on this, but hey, it's my bike. Got the acerbis cyclops headlight setup and threw it on. Very happy with it. Lights are more than bright enough for me, since most of my riding is in the city where street lights keep everything light as day. Setup was a pinch. Wired the projector and spotlight to be on at all times.



 

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Do a skid!
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2,821 Posts
Sick dickens i like it mate!
Ya do work!
gunna colour match that little screen to the bike? or leave it black?
nice man, keep it up
 

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Rage of the
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sick dickens i like it mate!
Ya do work!
gunna colour match that little screen to the bike? or leave it black?
nice man, keep it up
Thanks bud! I think I'm gonna leave it - I like the two-tone. Also, eventually I might make the entire upper black, and just leave the green wheels. :D
 

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Senior Member
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890 Posts
Welcome to CF :rock:

Couple of things.....

Get a suitable T piece and plumb your Kleen pipes together, then run it down to your crankcase breather (and block off the corresponding hole in your air box). Makes the crankcase run in a stronger vacuum which helps the motor rev a little freer.

Also, plumb the carb balance pipe back into the air box (the port you just blocked off for the crankcase breather is a pretty good spot). That way your carb float bowls will always have the same pressure as the carb throats (correct fuelling).

Then get the frame sorted and ride the piss outta that thing :thumbsup:
 

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Speed Euphoria
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1,069 Posts
Welcome, few things...

1. I'm in colorado springs about 45min south of you!
2. that headlight sux
3. that frame scares me
4. watch out in Denver , they are one of the few cities that enforces exhaust noise ordinance

WELCOME!
 

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Rage of the
Joined
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Get a suitable T piece and plumb your Kleen pipes together, then run it down to your crankcase breather (and block off the corresponding hole in your air box). Makes the crankcase run in a stronger vacuum which helps the motor rev a little freer.

Also, plumb the carb balance pipe back into the air box (the port you just blocked off for the crankcase breather is a pretty good spot). That way your carb float bowls will always have the same pressure as the carb throats (correct fuelling).
Great piece of advice Hillsy, thanks! Just to make sure I understand you correctly, is the "carb balance pipe" the same thing as the "carb vent hoses" that I pointed out in one of my pictures? Cheers
 

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Rage of the
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Good news! Went out to work on the bike today to see if I could look at that possible "no fuel in the float bowl" problem. But before I took it all apart again I thought I'd give it one more try, and after a couple coughs, she lit right up! Took her on a quick little victory lap too since snow is supposed to be on the way tonight.

So - I'd like to announce the successful removal of my evaporative emissions control system!

Here's a pic of all the crap that came out


Also, I noticed that the throttle was a little sticky, and wasn't really snapping shut the way it should. After fussing around with the cables a bit, I realized that the culprit was actually my new grips! On the inside of the grips, the rubber was not open ended. And the bolt that held the endcap on was gripping this rubber piece, restricting the motion of the throttle! Cut that sucker right off and presto, throttle was back to normal.

Here is the rubber end that the bolt was grabbing onto (i had already cut it off in this pic)


And here it is all free and clear
 
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