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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Whatsup! So I'm finally pulling the trigger on this streetfighter build. I've been looking around here for some inspiration on which direction I wanna go in and boy did I get it! One of my main concerns is wind protection. All of the fun happens between 60 and 120 mph. I want to know that if I'm riding it like that will the minimal wind protection pose a problem? Any PICTURES!

Here's my bike as she sits now.





Pretty rugged, huh?

Here's the thread of everything leading up to today. http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90337

Again, I don't know what direction I wanna take this build in exactly but I know I want it to be super clean looking and aggressive.

Right now I'm at a loss of what to do. I'm in the midst of a carb cleaning/ possible rebuild but I swear it's like every nut and bolt on this bike is a bitch to get off. Pretty much every screw in carb assembly is seized.

As you can see I got all of the top screws of the float bowls off but these bottom ones are giving so much trouble. Not that the top ones didn't. I sprayed and sprayed with WD 40 and a penetrating fluid but to no avail. I got the top ones off by using vise grips and a needle nose pliers but I can't get any leverage on them.

Another problem I've ran into was I can't get this radiator off. The top bolt is out but this bottom holder is giving me a hell of time.


I've got a new loom on the way and thinking about whether I should rejet or not.

Remember, the sooner I can get help from you guys the sooner we can all watch the evolution of the bike!
Cheers
 

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i cant fart
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Looks like u got a little custom battery tray welded to ur subframe.

And getting stuck on bolts, just make sure ur using the right size wrenches and sockets so u aren't stripping stuff, don't use American sized shit on ur metric bike.

Then make sure u put good leverage on shit when ur trying to take it off with the wrench or socket snug against the bolt.

Why are u taking the rad off anyways...
 

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You need to get your self an impact driver some impact sockets some sort of heat ,heat gun or blow torch and plenty of penitrating oil this will make light work of most stuck nuts bolts screws and if you get a little inventive even exhaust studs.
Good luck hope all goes well!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
After 3 days of spraying with penetrating oil and trying and trying with vice grips, screw drivers, needle nose pliers, and a hair dryer for heat I've finally reached desperation. If I can't get the fuckin float bowl screws free I don't want to imagine what the rest of the assembly would be like...the only option I can think of now is selling it and buying a new carb....or scrapping the whole street fighter project in general
 

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The Hell You Say!!
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Don't scrap the bike because of some shitty carbs man. Have some patience, you will probably have to get a heat gun, a hair dryer might not have to power. Worse case pick up a new set of carbs. Also I know you said you were only running on 3 cylinders....did you check the plugs?
 

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Take the top of the crabs off and get the diaphragms out then soak the crabs as a whole in a mix of 75% pinesol and 25% water for 24-36 hours. After that take them out rinse them off good and see if you can get them loose. The crabs will be mostly clean after the soak but you still want to check the jets. If the screws don't come out after the soak then do what I did. Use vise grips and clamp them on there really tight take them off tighten the vise grips a little more and clamp them on there again then turn a little at a time. Its the best bet you don't want to use an impact and break the crab body while smacking the impact with a hammer.


My first build did the same thing to me. Every fucking screw\bolt was seized to puck. It was very frustrating but it got me started on think out side the box to get the job done. Calm down put the hammer away and walk away if you need to. Work on something else till you can try to do it without thoughts of take a sledge hammer to them.
 

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Will Tig For Food
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Awesome! Gonna try it in the morning.
Dude was right about the vicegrips. Here's a great tip, they've got them in
needle nose and those are the ones that are worth their weight in hydro:CK187:

Also, tapping on the head and applying penetrating lube MULTIPLE times usually gets
most of them. For the seriously stubborn bolt's you can hit the housing with
a little heat. I have a little mapp torch I use, but be careful because if you heat-soak
anything enough it'll distort
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Future plans: Paint the frame, headers, and engine black (possibly the bottom of the forks as well). I want to put the nose of a Gilera DNA on the front (hopefully not too much fabricating will be involved in that). I'll be replacing the gauge cluster with a danmoto SP8 gauge. I'd much rather have the SP7 because I like that design a lot more but I can't find any for sale. Also, an R6 tail is very likely. Exactly what would I need as far as parts are concerned for the tail swap?
 

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Pinesol as meantioned, is a brilliant cleaner.
Your carb screws are being gay because of galvanic corrosion. How I do shitty carb screws,
Take the diaphragm caps, diaphragms and slides out, sit carbs upside down on a block of wood, heat around the screws with a butane torch, use and impact driver.
Or
Slot the heads of the screws to use a big flat blade (the may end up leaving you with snapped screw heads, then it's reverse drill or ezy-out time)

Electrical contact cleaner will do for the loom plugs. general silicon spray/tyre shine shit will make the rest pretty

Tail swap, I've done a modified R6 tail on my ZX6 and I just built a subframe for it, many hours were wasted learning how to weld though lol and still not happy with it, so a third try is needed. If you can weld, make your own subframe, the fabrication is bloody easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Awesome thanks for the info! Sorry for the noob question but the diaphragms are under the black caps, correct? If so those are pretty stuck in there too. Today I'll be cleaning the headers, radiator, and loom. And unfortunately I do not have the tools or the skills to fabricate my own subframe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Worked on my headers today I might be ready for paint? I'm not sure exactly how stripped or clean it should be for the paint to last. Should it be literally in like new condition?
Heres what my headers looked like after an hour of sanding

After 2 hours

And after 3+ hours, here they are
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Doing a bit more research and looking around. Would it be possible to get that discolored titanium effect on my stainless steel headers? I've heard that comes from running lean but for some reason I think it looks cool af
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
More disassembly today. I got the whole electrical system off and disconnected except for this little fucker. Do I take it off unscrewing those phillips screws or do i unplug it from the loom? I tried both. The screws are stuck (what else is new) and there doesn't seem to be anything to disconnect it from the loom.


Radiators a bit fucked up but still usable yeah?
 
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