Custom Fighters - Custom Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello everyone, I have managed to buy a gsxr 1100 engine that I am planning to fit in a 1990 gsxr 750 frame, the engine is not stock at all.... it had an alternator deleteplate, it has a small ss braided line that deletes the oil cooler !! I dont know if it was running this way for drag races or is it just sold that way to protect the oil cooler lines in the oil pan from dust... the intake and exhaust ports are also ported and polished... has a one of a kind TSUBAKI cam chain tensioner that I cannot find anywhere on the internet....I removed the signal generator cover and to my surprise there is no signal generator and no gear... empty !!! this lead me to think it had a dyna2000 ECU or something... the engine also has a 750 oil pan fitted not an 1100 pan, also, when checking the timing, I found 22 pins on the chain between number 2 mark on ex cam sprocket and no 3 mark on IN sprocket but !!!! there should be a notch on the end of each cam (on the signal generator side of cams) there is only 1 notch on the intake cam and its not pointing the right direction and the other notch on the exhaust cam is on the other side of the engine !!!and also not pointing correctly!!! this lead me to think that the cams are not stock!!! anyway I put in a gsxr 750 signal generator and gear, fitted the engine to a gsx 750 inazuma frame just to fire it up, connected oil cooler, fitted a set of 38mm mikunis and some car oil (20w50) and tried to fire it up but the engine was really hard to turn or fire up... ended up using a car battery and it fired up!!!! first 2 minutes everything was great then when it started getting hotter the timing chain noise started to appear with a little ticking noise from the head... left it running for 30 minuted... switched it off ... let it cool down.... dropped oil.... removed valve cover and cam chain tensioner and desided to count the cam chain, I found it is 122 pin which is correct, measured the length between 21 pins (after removing the idler gear) on the chain and it gave 155 mm, the manual says 158 max before chainging the cam chain... I also figured out that the tensioner is not doing anything the cam chain is already firm and has tension in it.... when I take the tensioner out its all the way in did not open up anything!!! tried a normal suzuki tensioner and the issue is the same !! I do not understand why the chain is very tight and if that is normal why is it producing so much cam chain noise, its not an extreme sound but its not nice !!! I do not know much about the huge variety of cylinder heads available but... could it be that this engine has a cylinder head fitter that is a bit higher than the stock head and accordingly needs a longer cam chain ? is that possible??? the cylinder head has the code (771502) is this the correct head for my engine ? one last thing when I got the engine most of the bolts on the outside of the engine where drilled rly small holes and a rly long thin wire was passing through all the holes all round the engine !!! it was my first time to ever see this !! the guy I got the engine from says it is imported from japan (I am from EGYPT)

I will be posting pics soon, I hope someone can guide me with this engine or give me any hints or things to check, sorry for the very long thread and thank you all in advance
 

·
Eurotrash
Joined
·
33 Posts
The wire is lockwire, it's a race requirement in a lot of places, stops your bolts ending up in someones eye or tyre if they fall out. If the chain is much to tight you might want to check the bearings that support the cam chain sprockets, they might be shot. Check valve clearances if applicable ( I don't know your engine) to make sure theyre not ticking. try adding a link and taking up the slack with the tensioner.
 

·
UnicycleMode
Joined
·
7,569 Posts
That sounds like the usual A/O top end clatter they are so well known for, as well, it sounds like the engine is as spec'd for drag racing as it gets. The head being the one from the original 1127 matters not, it would only be an issue if the cam bearing surfaces are burned up and causing the ticking you speak of. When the engine is rev'd does the ticking noise get quieter or louder? If it gets louder I would start checking over the top end bearings.


It sounds as though the engine is within' spec. Probably had a set of aftermarket flat slide carbs too. Oil cooler and charging system deletion is pretty common for a drag bike as it only needs to run for a few minutes at a time anyway.


Welcome to CF. Best of luck sorting out your bike! :)
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top