Custom Fighters - Custom Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum banner
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So anyone want to suggest an idea about my bike with slipping second gear?

All other gears shift fine but second all of the sudden makes this nasty grinding noise when you give it throttle.

I put it on CL because I don't want to deal with it anymore and I need money for my 999, spare wheels race tires tire warmers generator etc. I sold my 749 already. I have it up for $1500 just to see if I get any offers but no interest.

I don't really want to give it away since I have so much work into it and the trans is pretty much the only issue. I haven't seen any decent deals on a 750 or 1100 engine to try and swap, plus I don't know if I'll just be getting into the same situation anyway with a different engine.

Part it out, sell it for $500, or just make it a garage ornament? Maybe try to find replacement gears (really tough to find)?
 

·
sickboy
Joined
·
3,544 Posts
sounds like the second gear dog ears are worn. You can still buy oem gears from Suzuki parts house and bike bandit and those. looks like second gear is about $60, with gaskets and all that your probably looking at like $150 in parts and a long weekend replacing it. Not too bad
 

·
lb/hp is what it's about!
Joined
·
10,448 Posts
Your bike is the 600w right? If so you won't be able to get a 750 or 1100 oil cooled engine in it because the 600 oil cooled barely fits and I'm doubting the 750w and 1100w will fit too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies guys. It's a 600w. From what I read the 600w and 750w were identical except for pistons and cylinder sleeves, must have been 1993 because I think the 750 was still oil cooled in '92. Anyway finding one is like impossible anyway and the 1100 even more so.
So I guess I fix it or scrap it then huh. I have to pull the engine and split the bottom half to get to the trans gears right?
 

·
sickboy
Joined
·
3,544 Posts
yup, have to split em. def a lot of work but if your persistent at it and have done any type of engine work involving splitting cases you could do the whole job in one long day including removing and reinstalling the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok so I have the engine ready to drop out but how the hell do you support it? The oil pan is offset so it's going to want to fall over. I am guessing you take the frame spar off first and then the last couple bolts to get it out. Then what, stand it on it's head to separate?
 

·
sickboy
Joined
·
3,544 Posts
Never personally pulled the motor from that gen gsxr but just looking at it I would think you can unbolt the "cradle" from the frame or whatever u call the bottom engine mount on it. Then support the motor from the bottom via a mc jack then unbolt the head mount and the main frame mount and lower it to the ground still in the engine cradle part? Again, just what it looks like to me in pics sense I haven't done one personally.
 

·
lb/hp is what it's about!
Joined
·
10,448 Posts
How I've done it with a helper:
- drain fluids
- removal all motor mounts except rear
- unbolt cradle
- hold onto engine as helper removes rear motor mount bolts
- lower engine onto cart
- roll cart out from under the frame

How I've done it solo:
- drain fluids
- removal all motor mounts except rear and bottom left (keep rear bolts in but remove nuts)
- unbolt cradle
- put down a moving blanket or air mattress
- support engine as you carefully lower the bike onto it's right side
- remove last 3 motor mounts
- tip frame back up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I got it out, getting it in will be another matter. I have to do this stuff by myself.
I'm getting ready to try and split the bottom, was hoping a veteran could make sure I don't mess anything up.
I have the clutch cover and stator cover off, the oil pan off and the oil filter off. Looks like I will need to remove the alternator to get at a couple bolts. Also looks like I need to get the chain drive pulley off the output shaft so I can take off what appears to be a seal retainer. can I leave the starter, starter clutch and drive clutch in place? I can't get the water pump off because PHILLIPS SCREWS but it looks like it can stay with the bottom cover and the shift drum / forks. I've heard about bent shift forks but they look cast. Wouldn't they just break? They look straight but I don't have them out yet obviously.

Also, how many consumables do I actually have to replace? The oil pan gasket and clutch plate gasket is a given and one of the oil drain gaskets was leaking anyway but how about stuff like the oil pickup o-ring? transmission drive shaft circlips? Should I use a touch of locktite on reassambly or just torque the bolts? Thanks for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Stupid water pump wouldn't come off and when it did I hit my hand on the engine case so now I'm in the er getting stitches.

On a positive note I figured out how to get stuck Phillips screws out without stripping them. Phillips driver bit in a socket to a 3/8 to 1/2 converter then push down and hit it with an impact. Came right out.
 

·
sickboy
Joined
·
3,544 Posts
They can be a real bitch sometimes because of the rvt and sometimes the locating dowels rust and stick the 2 halves together. Spray the seam with penetrating fluid and let it sit a bit then try some LIGHT taps with a nylon or rawhide hammer. Get just a little edge up and use a plastic pry bar to slowly work your way around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Finally got it apart, there was still a whole bunch of bolts that were hidden around the starter clutch and generator drive there was a bolt under the starter clutch and more bolts behind the drive clutch. I cannot believe how many bolts hold that together, seems overkill and they are all different sizes some with copper gaskets, it will be a miracle if I get it back together without extra hardware.

Anyway. The only wear I see is on what Suzuki calls the "second driven gear" and the "top driven gear". It really doesn't look that bad though. There's a spring I assume in the shifter drum that keeps the gears engaged, should I look at that to see if its a problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok nevermind I just went and looked at the shift drum there's no spring, the springy feeling from the gearshift is what ratchets the drum. So maybe the shift fork is bent and not allowing full engagement? How can I check that, it's not obviously bent.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I inspected the shift forks again and there is clear rubbing on the side of the shift fork with "top driven gear", there's chips on the edge of the fork. So I guess it's bent. There's also evidence that the other fork has been rubbing against 5th driven gear but it's not as bad.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top