DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT do this. Ever. I've known several people who went down trying to get a little more speed by shoving forward on the bars. A wobble is from an imbalance of force, or more specifically a lack of damping causing it to "hunt" for equilibrium i.e wander back and forth. Shoving forward temporarily masks this but the root imbalance is still there, and with more speed will gain strength. At some point it will overpower your shove, rip the handlebar out of your hand, possibly break your wrists, and go into a full blown tank slapper. You have 600+lbs going 100mph, there's a lot of energy at play here and it's much stronger than you are.If I apply pressure with both hands on handlebars it seems to alleviate the issue some.
This is it exactly. Thanks for explaining it to him.DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT do this. Ever. I've known several people who went down trying to get a little more speed by shoving forward on the bars. A wobble is from an imbalance of force, or more specifically a lack of damping causing it to "hunt" for equilibrium i.e wander back and forth. Shoving forward temporarily masks this but the root imbalance is still there, and with more speed will gain strength. At some point it will overpower your shove, rip the handlebar out of your hand, possibly break your wrists, and go into a full blown tank slapper. You have 600+lbs going 100mph, there's a lot of energy at play here and it's much stronger than you are.
If you get high speed wobble the correct thing to do is keep a light grip on the bars, roll off the gas, and smoothly apply the rear brake only until the wobble subsides. Jamming on the front brake can upset the barely-in-check oscillations and result in a tank slapper as well.
If you've ruled out cupped or worn tires, the next most common issue is loose or worn head bearings. The general test is to elevate the front wheel off the ground, put the handlebars center, and gently nudge them until they fall to one side. If they bounce off the stop, it's too loose. There's two castellated nuts under the top clamp. The top is a jam nut, the lower sets the tension. Use a flat screwdriver and a hammer to tap a little more tension on. If you develop a low-speed weave, like the bike doesn't want to hold a straight line, you got them too tight. Since your bike is fairly new I doubt they would be worn out, unless you wheelie and have hard landings a lot which can notch the races.
+repDO NOT DO NOT DO NOT do this. Ever. I've known several people who went down trying to get a little more speed by shoving forward on the bars. A wobble is from an imbalance of force, or more specifically a lack of damping causing it to "hunt" for equilibrium i.e wander back and forth. Shoving forward temporarily masks this but the root imbalance is still there, and with more speed will gain strength. At some point it will overpower your shove, rip the handlebar out of your hand, possibly break your wrists, and go into a full blown tank slapper. You have 600+lbs going 100mph, there's a lot of energy at play here and it's much stronger than you are.
If you get high speed wobble the correct thing to do is keep a light grip on the bars, roll off the gas, and smoothly apply the rear brake only until the wobble subsides. Jamming on the front brake can upset the barely-in-check oscillations and result in a tank slapper as well.
If you've ruled out cupped or worn tires, the next most common issue is loose or worn head bearings. The general test is to elevate the front wheel off the ground, put the handlebars center, and gently nudge them until they fall to one side. If they bounce off the stop, it's too loose. There's two castellated nuts under the top clamp. The top is a jam nut, the lower sets the tension. Use a flat screwdriver and a hammer to tap a little more tension on. If you develop a low-speed weave, like the bike doesn't want to hold a straight line, you got them too tight. Since your bike is fairly new I doubt they would be worn out, unless you wheelie and have hard landings a lot which can notch the races.
