Hotwire a Bandit

36964 Views 66 Replies 16 Participants Last post by Nikesan, 7 d ago

Candyman

Discussion Starter · Mar 31, 2008

3

I need to bypass the ignition key on the Bandit, I want to wire it up with some hidden switches instead. I got some info on how to do it but I wanted to bounce it off you guys and see what you thought.

Heres what I have to work with: this is the plug from the harness that the key/ignition plugs into

Heres the wiring diagram close up of the above plug:

What I've been told is that I need to connect R-O, O/Y-B/W, and Gr-Br wires. With a 100ohm resistor between the O/Y-B/W wires.

So; my plan is to connect the R and O to a switch, connect the Gr and Br to a switch, and connect the O/Y and B/W to a switch, with a 100ohm resistor wired in like option 3 in this pic: (it should be O/Y not O/R)

So what do you think? This way I'll have 3 switches that I'll need to hit to ride off with the bike, which is fine. My major goal right now is to keep it as straight-forward as possible just to try to get it started.

If you need to take a look at a full wiring diagram I have a hi-res copy I can email somebody.

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Dudad

· #2 · Mar 31, 2008

lol so much work to remove a key....

Will

· #3 · Mar 31, 2008

That sounds like a great idea, but I have a question about the resistor. Shouldn't the 100ohm resister be put inline rather than in series? It seems to me when it is bridged like that once you flip the switch the electricity will flow around the resistor due to the path of least resistance. Plus with it bridged like that the circuit is always closed. Am I making any sense? I can draw a picture if that would help.

With all this being said, option A or B

Sven

· #4 · Mar 31, 2008

option A or B, doesn't matter but not option C
and you can connect the B/W in addition to ground if you want to jump the kickstand relay as well
it's the same mod like all GSX-R slingshots with 6pin connector

Candyman

Discussion Starter · #5 · Mar 31, 2008

I asked the same question Svenseman, here's the resonse I got:

"Connecting it in parallel as in C makes it work, in series it apparently doesn't. Dunno how it works but it goes along the same lines as bulbs - if you connect bulbs in parallel the bulbs have to be the same as the same input voltage but if you connect them in series you divide the input voltage by the amount of bulbs (which are acting as resistors) and that gives the voltage each bulb needs to be.
So in parallel if it was 110v input the bulbs would all be 110v no matter how many you use, in series if you had 10 bulbs with the 110v input the bulbs would each be only 11v."

That kinda stuff is getting over my head to understand how it works, I just want to be able to do what needs to be done to get it running at this point.

Will

· #6 · Mar 31, 2008

I would connect it as A or B, my 2 cents are in! :LolLolLolLol:

Candyman

Discussion Starter · #7 · Mar 31, 2008

Well thats what I thought too, but I usually bumble around with electrics until something finally works. It'd be nice to get a "for-sure" take from somebody on this one and save myself some frustration.

Sven

· #8 · Mar 31, 2008

Candyman said:
I asked the same question Svenseman, here's the resonse I got:

"Connecting it in parallel as in C makes it work, in series it apparently doesn't. Dunno how it works but it goes along the same lines as bulbs - if you connect bulbs in parallel the bulbs have to be the same as the same input voltage but if you connect them in series you divide the input voltage by the amount of bulbs (which are acting as resistors) and that gives the voltage each bulb needs to be.
So in parallel if it was 110v input the bulbs would all be 110v no matter how many you use, in series if you had 10 bulbs with the 110v input the bulbs would each be only 11v."

That kinda stuff is getting over my head to understand how it works, I just want to be able to do what needs to be done to get it running at this point.

if (C) works, you won't need the resistor at all as you get the full 12V to the CDI
the resistor is in there to lower the voltage a little to make it more difficult to hotwire the bike, this is part of the anti theft device inside the CDI
to lower the voltage you have to put the resistor in series (A/B) not parallel like (C) to the switch
you gave your self already the answer

Candyman

Discussion Starter · #9 · Mar 31, 2008

Ok, I'd be inclined to believe you and try A/B first.

One question though, is there any danger of frying something if I try the wrong one first??

Sven

· #10 · Mar 31, 2008

no, nothing to be scared of

Will

· #11 · Mar 31, 2008

Candyman said:
Ok, I'd be inclined to believe you and try A/B first.

One question though, is there any danger of frying something if I try the wrong one first??

I work with electronics and I strongly believe either A or B will work. If you were to try C and it was wrong you would blow a fuse, but if you are wrong with A or B (which are really the same thing) then nothing would go wrong, it just wouldn't work.

enrico vespa

· #12 · Mar 31, 2008

try something like this, just take the whole wiring with you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0bhZtc3mlA

Candyman

Discussion Starter · #13 · Mar 31, 2008

Well, thats 2 to 1. I have a friend to ask yet and let his vote be the swaying vote.

This 100ohm resistor is something I could just pick up at RadioShack for a few bucks right? I might check and see what kinda switches they have too. They might have some kinda trick switch that lets me take a part with me. I don't usually ride in rough areas of town so theft doesn't worry me too much.

Will

· #14 · Mar 31, 2008

Yes, they will have them at radio shack.

Candyman

Discussion Starter · #15 · Mar 31, 2008

Will said:
Yes, they will have them at radio shack.

:drinks:Cheers

Will

· #16 · Mar 31, 2008

:winko:

DougZ

· #17 · Mar 31, 2008

You only need one resitor.

Orange/red...just a switch. power...ignition
brown/grey...just a switch....lights

black/white & orange /yellow...is the only one that needs a resitor...1/2 watt, 100 Ohm...and you can trace wires all the way back to CDI...and just snip the wires... can be done an inch from CDI...just solder one end to black/white wire, and other end to orange/yellow.

Ammadien

· #18 · Mar 31, 2008

DougZ said:
You only need one resitor.

Orange/red...just a switch. power...ignition
brown/grey...just a switch....lights

black/white & orange /yellow...is the only one that needs a resitor...1/2 watt, 100 Ohm...and you can trace wires all the way back to CDI...and just snip the wires... can be done an inch from CDI...just solder one end to black/white wire, and other end to orange/yellow.

I knew Doug would chime in here.

So you'd only need two switches then right? the one in question would be always connected.

Nate

DougZ

· #19 · Mar 31, 2008

Ammadien said:
I knew Doug would chime in here.

So you'd only need two switches then right? the one in question would be always connected.

Nate

yeah, its no big deal. All that circuit is, like most post 2000 Zuk's( maybe before too....not my knowledge base)...use resistance as a way of knowing something that should be there, is there. In this case...its so the ECU knows the keyed ignition is still there and some fool aint trying to hotwire the bike.

ZrO-1

· #20 · Mar 31, 2008

Based on DougZ's reply, You only will need one switch. If the B/W - O/Y pair can be closed with a resistor for anti-theft reasons, then you can simply get a dual-pole single throw toggle and have the four remaining wires run into that. I don't have the anti-theft circuit on my bike so I just have the two independant circuits. I used a nice water-resistant illuminated dual-pole, single-throw toggle I got from Jegs.

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