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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
whats goin on? so iv got a kinda cool idea to box out the subframe under my seat. now im very limited in tools. pretty much all i have is a drill, rivit gun and a tape measure. and maybe some shears. heres what im looking to do.

original...


what i want it to look like



the only idea i can think of is taking some sheet metal and curling it over the subrame, riviting it in place and then boxing off underneath it. any other ideas?
 

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Is my bike ok?
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Buy tools.


I know that sounds like I'm being a smart ass, but I promise I'm not. And if you have a vision of what you want ,figure out what you need and then tool up. Its the only way. And good tools will last a hobbyist a lifetime.

But to answer your question, sorry, I'm out. What you mentioned sounds completely doable , but without seeing what you got the work off of its hard to formulate an idea of what could be done.

Good luck with your project.
 

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Littering And...........
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Hahaha holy shit. MOAR tools MEOW!!!!

Yeah man more tools. But the things I can think with what ya got are extremely ghetto and require a few rolls of duct tape. Prolly not the look you're going for but hey, I've seen worse.

The best you could do is rivet straps to the sheet metal pieces on the sides and just strap it onto the frame. Still ghetto, but you shouldn't be able to see the straps.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hahaha holy shit. MOAR tools MEOW!!!!

Yeah man more tools. But the things I can think with what ya got are extremely ghetto and require a few rolls of duct tape. Prolly not the look you're going for but hey, I've seen worse.

The best you could do is rivet straps to the sheet metal pieces on the sides and just strap it onto the frame. Still ghetto, but you shouldn't be able to see the straps.


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We'll my plan was to wrap sheet metal around it and rivit it on the inside. Like the top part of the bottom frame rail. Then box out the whole thing from underneath so you would never see it and if I can get It to bend smoothly it shouldn't look that bad. But in order to do it right if hafta get a welder and electrician to run a 240 line to my garage. Too much money
 

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lɐʇuǝɯᴉɹǝdx&#4
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the only idea i can think of is taking some sheet metal and curling it over the subrame, riviting it in place and then boxing off underneath it. any other ideas?
Do basically the same thing, but hold it in place with JB weld? Avoids putting any holes (stress risers) in the subframe tubing. You could probably get better results by cutting individual panels that sit flush in the openings, gluing them in (glue on back) and then filling any gaps with bondo.

A better option that all that might be fiberglass. Just fill the open spaces with carboard, wrap it all in plastic wrap, and build up the fiber-glass the same way you planned to do the metal. Trim it neatly afterwords, and you'll have a removable "snap fit" panel to cover the sub frame. Might need some retaners on the back side, but those don't need to screw into the subframe, just hold the panel snug.

Of these options, I'd guess the fiberglass would cost more and require more new tools, but also give better results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do basically the same thing, but hold it in place with JB weld? Avoids putting any holes (stress risers) in the subframe tubing. You could probably get better results by cutting individual panels that sit flush in the openings, gluing them in (glue on back) and then filling any gaps with bondo.

A better option that all that might be fiberglass. Just fill the open spaces with carboard, wrap it all in plastic wrap, and build up the fiber-glass the same way you planned to do the metal. Trim it neatly afterwords, and you'll have a removable "snap fit" panel to cover the sub frame. Might need some retaners on the back side, but those don't need to screw into the subframe, just hold the panel snug.

Of these options, I'd guess the fiberglass would cost more and require more new tools, but also give better results.
Never thought about fiberglass. I might hafta look into that one

*edit* where the hell can i get everything i need? i cant seem to find it.
 

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lɐʇuǝɯᴉɹǝdx&#4
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Dunno where to shop, never done glasswork myself. But there's tons of great threads about it on this forum, guides on youtube, and sites dedicated to selling all the stuff you'd need. These guys look like they'd help yah figure stuff out if you gave a call - http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/
 

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lb/hp is what it's about!
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But in order to do it right if hafta get a welder and electrician to run a 240 line to my garage. Too much money
There are tons of welders both new and old that run on 110 and even some that can run on 110 or 220. If you are just doing thin stuff and don't have the amps cranked up you could probably get by with a standard electrical socket too.

If you couldn't tell, I also suggest getting more tools or at least start becoming friends with people that have tools.
 

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re-tarded
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If you're only doing sheet metal work there's no need for 230V. Hell, my roommate does a lot of work with his Dynasty 200DX plugged into 110, even though there's a dryer outlet 5' farther from him (and plenty of extension cord).
 
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We'll my plan was to wrap sheet metal around it and rivit it on the inside. Like the top part of the bottom frame rail. Then box out the whole thing from underneath so you would never see it and if I can get It to bend smoothly it shouldn't look that bad. But in order to do it right if hafta get a welder and electrician to run a 240 line to my garage. Too much money
the sheet isn't going to roll nicely around the subframe, especially just by hand. you'll need body working tools to get it to shape to the subframe fluidly.

harbor freight sells a 110v flux cored for $90 (or less on sale) just don't use the harbor freight flux cored wire. it's shit and will leave porous welds.

Another option, it will leave gaps though, would be to use these:


to go aorund the subframe, and attach sheet to.
 
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