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Customfighter
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got given this Performance Machine calliper: ImageUploadedByMO Free1405701381.754492.jpg

ImageUploadedByMO Free1405701609.223618.jpg

Someone stupid painted right over everything!

The pad retaining pin and bleed nipple are stuck pretty hard and need advice on best way to release them: ImageUploadedByMO Free1405701416.055021.jpg

ImageUploadedByMO Free1405701470.639700.jpg

Any suggestions/ advice appreciated! Please move to correct place if in wrong place mods!


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patience, wd40 and maybe a little heat. but mostly patience. dont force the bleed nipple cos if it snaps, you have another problem. i soak most parts in diesel first.
 

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Penetrating oil is your friend I buy it by the case. Defiantly take a torch to the bleed nipple you do not want that thing to shear off. Then a wire brush and new seals and bjorg stronginthearm is your uncle!
Rw


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When y'all say heat and torch ur talking something small like a pen torch or jewelry welder right? Maybe it's just me but I hear torch I assume cutting torch, which would work turned down, but in the hands of the wrong person could potentially desentigrate that thing in a matter of seconds. Giving that this is the beginner section thought it might be wise to clarify, not necessarily for big green here but perhaps an innocent onlooker, that we mean low heat, especially for the bleeder.
 

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a standard plumbers blowtorch is fine. spread the flame so its not a blue narrow one. alloy heats up quicker than steel so just wave the flame around the caliper body. it wont melt. careful with the pads though, they may contain asbestos. again, if you get any movement at all from either the pin or the nipple, dont be tempted to keep turning. turn it back the other way then loosen it a bit and so on. if you dont have a blow torch, use a pan of boiling water, does the same thing but slower. quick ten second dunk then whip it on the bench. use gloves obviously!!
 

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Customfighter
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok so there is no way those are coming loose by that method!! The caliper itself was too hot to touch but nothing would budge!!

Cleaned it up though, gunna have to sell it as is, someone else can deal with it with the correct tools for the job.

ImageUploadedByMO Free1405803642.163042.jpg


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Did ya try it once wit was cold? Also the water would remove any lube so put some more on there and let it soak.


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looks like you can actually split the caliper in half if you can undo the allen screws holding it together, if you can do that and you are part the way there otherwise get hold of some cellulose thinners and some automatic transmission fluid and mix a small amount 50/50 and soak the caliper in this for a day or so or put it in a small container and leave it submerged in there, you will need new seals and pads afterwards obviously, its a trick I have read about and have used a few times with good success, (don't tell health and safety):voodoo:
 

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Just checked out the pics on my tablet and see you already have the Allen screws out couldn't see it earlier as I was using my phone, soaking in the brew I have mentioned could help give it a try before you condemn it
 

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CB350Cafe first build
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-you can use electrolysis on the steel bits using a battery charger. I've used it before with amazing results...Idea being that the iron oxides causing the parts to seize with the aluminum relocate with the whole cathode/annode freeing up the siezed parts...following pic shows the annode hooked up to the positive terminal.

Its tough to see in the picture but pay close attention...the cathode is a wire basket I made. This wire basket sits inside of another plastic bowl, separating the basket (-) charge from the 3/4" wide bar (+) charge anode which sits below the plastic bowl. you'll have to read up on the process before you try it, but it does amazing work. One other detail is you have to use Washing Soda, NOT baking soda.

You can actually see the iron oxides gravitating towards the anode, and while the charger is on, you can see the hydrogen gassing off of the parts...I think its hydrogen...



-if you have access to a heated ultrasonic cleaner...this too will do wonders as well.

-I think I have heard that diesel with a bit of brake fluid mixed makes a fantastic penetrating oil...not sure about the ratio though.

Problem with brake fluid in general is it acts like a desicant and retains moisture which is all things bad for carbon steel.
 
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CB350Cafe first build
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So your next battle will be to get the pistons out...you can use a zerk fitting with the appropriate thread size and pitch inside of the bleeder port or the pressure side from the master cylinder, and pump that badboy full of grease forcing the piston and its rubber seals out of there.

Typically one will pop before the other...whichever one pops, hold it back into position with a c-clamp, reseat it, and tighten the clamp down, then repeat the grease gun until the other side pops.

Some pics...


 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for those helpful answers guys! So small update. I realised that because I took out the allen bolts each caliper half was free to turn as one of you pointed out. It's amazing how you don't think of things when stuck in that situation. So started twisting and turning- eventually worked it loose so all I needed to do was punch the retaining pin out with a small enough screwdriver bit. Worked great. Sorry didn't think to take pics during process. Next issue is to get the pistons out and bleed nipple- reckon I'll have to take it somewhere to get those out though as don't have an air compressor or anything like that.

Some pics of how it looks now:

ImageUploadedByMO Free1406749876.469938.jpg

ImageUploadedByMO Free1406750008.537695.jpg

ImageUploadedByMO Free1406750033.401288.jpg

ImageUploadedByMO Free1406750058.699705.jpg


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Put the caliper halves in a vice and get a Rawlbolt that fits inside the hollow of the piston tighten it so it is secure and attach a slide hammer to it and use this to remove it , its a bit heath robinson but does work , you may have to make up an adapter to join the slide hammer to the rawlbolt, its cheaper than a brake piston remover kit
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sorry Gasmo65 but I have nil experience of rawlbolts and slide hammers so have no idea what you are saying. I've seen what they look like on the net but don't know how you would work them to get pistons out! Any pics to show the process?


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Sorry no pics but a rawlbolt is an expanding fixing used in buildings its an outer metal body in 3 pieces held together with a circlip type ring and inside the metal body is a threaded stud with a bulge in the end and a nut and washer at the other, what you do is select a rawlbolt that will fit in the recess of the caliper piston, lets say you have a 15mm recess in the piston then the rawlbolt you need has to be around 14mm to 15mm because what you do next is tighten the nut on the rawlbolt which makes the metal body expand and fit tightly into the recess and once tight you attach the slide hammer to the threaded part off the rawlbolt and bang away, this should pull the piston out of the caliper, you may need to throw something together to attach the slide hammer to the rawlbolt this is where it can be a little challenging but you should be able to do it , I have used threaded sleeves I found in an ironmongers along with the rawlbolts but you should be able to get them from any DIY place or toolstation or screwfix, once you see them you will understand better, you may be lucky and once the rawlbolt is expanded and secure in the piston recess you might be able to pull it out with mole grips it all depends on your luck and how much penetrating fluid you have used, you can also buy a brake piston removal tool from Laser tools I think or ebay but its lots more expensive than a rawlbolt, good luck
 

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CB350Cafe first build
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Please reread my post about using a grease gun to pump the piston bores full of grease, the hydraulic pressure created from the grease gun will push the pistons out. The ones I showed in that pic were solidly locked...it took less than 20 minutes to force them out one pump at a time.

[Edit]: as an aside, grease guns are cheap, the appropriate zerk fitting to thread into the caliper, inexpensive as well, and the method i use does not damage the pistons at all.
 
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