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76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·

1. Outer Tube
2. Inner Tube
3. Inner Anti-Friction Sleeve
4. Outer Anti-Friction Sleeve
5. Oil Seal Retainer
6. Oil Seal
7. Oil Seal Stopper Ring (Clip)
8. Dust Seal
9. Compression Damping Force Adjuster
10. Damper Rod
11. Lock Nut
12. Top Cap
13. Damper Retainer Bolt + Copper Washer
14. Spring
15. Spring Seat
16. Spacer
17. Spring Seat
18. Spring Retainer
19. Fork Cap
20. Fork Cap O-Ring
21. Preload Spring Adjuster
22. Expander (Metal O-Ring)
23. O-Ring
24. Ball Bearing
25. Rebound Damping Force Adjuster
26. O-Ring

NOTE: (9)Compression Damping Force Adjuster and (10)Damper Rod Are NON-Servicable

Things you will need:

-Spanner Wrench
-15mm wrench
-14mm wrench
-8mm hex wrench
-long socket and extension
-fork oil (10 Weight for Canada as per service manual)
-Flat head screwdriver
-Bucket (a blue one)

All Balls Fork seal kit:
-Oil seals
-Fork wipers

-Brake Cleaner Spray
-Rags/Shop Towels

1. Raise the bike off the ground and remove front wheel, rotors, wheel fender, and bracket holding forks together. Loosen the clip-ons.

2. Using the spanner wrench, loosen the fork cap about 1/4 turn. This is to break it loose while it's still held by the front fork clamp.

3. Place some rags under the forks and loosen the 8mm hex bolt on the bottom of the forks. I did this by using the hex key and sliding a long socket and extension over it for leverage. Just break it loose. Some people have had a hard time with this, and either use a special tool or an impact driver. I had no problems with mine and it snapped loose with a bit of pressure. The compressed spring was enough for the damper to not spin.

4. Slide the forks out of the bike.

5. Begin unscrewing the fork cap. When the o-ring is visible, place a rag over the cap and slowly continue unscrewing it, holding it away from your pretty-boy face. When the cap comes off, you will feel a slight push up.

6. The inner tube will want to slide down. Let it slide down. Quickly flip the fork over into the bucket and let the oil drain out. You can pump the inner tube a few time to get some oil out.

7. Now we want to tackle the spring and top cap. I was able to wiggle a 14mm wrench in between the spring retainer and top cap. I put a 15mm wrench on the spring adjuster and loosened them. At this point, the top cap can be unscrewed off the damper and put aside. Flip the fork again and drain more oil out.

8. Loosen the lock nut to relieve preload on the fork. Do NOT remove it completely. The spring will pop off! Once I felt I could handle compressing the spring down enough by hand, I pulled down on the spring and shook the fork a bit to get the spring retainer to fall off, then I carefully released the spring and the whole spring assembly came off the damper. Flip the fork again and jack off the damper. It will ejaculate what's left of the oil.

9. Pull on the damper and from below, loosen the 8mm hex bolt until the damper comes loose, then pull it out.

10. To remove the inner tube, you need to remove the dust seal, the seal stopper ring (clip) and the oil seal. To remove the dust seal, place a dull screwdriver between it and the outer tube. Tap the screwdriver so it seats below the dust seal and begin twisting the screwdriver to work the dust seal loose. Then pull it off.

11. Remove the seal stopper ring by prying it away from the outer tube using a screwdriver. Be careful not to scratch the inner tube chrome. Pull it off

12. To remove the oil seal, hold the inner and outer tubes and begin sliding them apart. Small but swift and firm taps will begin to unseat the oil seal. Keep sliding them until they come apart. slide off the oil seal and oil seal retainer (Big washer)

13. There are two anti-friction sleeves that are seated on inner fork tube. Carefully slide the small one off and by prying on the larger one, slide it off the bottom.

14. Moving to the top cap, it is comprised of three parts; The fork cap, the rebound adjuster and the preload adjuster. To dismantle them, screw the preload adjuster in all the way. It will come out of the bottom. To remove the rebound adjuster, screw it down all the way into the preload adjuster. When it comes out, a small ball bearing will also pop out. Do NOT lose it.

15. Remove the compression damping force adjuster at the bottom of the outer tube using a 14mm wrench.



For the fork tubes, I dipped a foam-tipped bottle brush in diesel and brushed inside both tubes. I followed up with brake cleaner to get any residue out. As for the fork dampers, I put the bottom in a can of diesel and pumped the damper about 3-4 times. On the third pump, it will shoot diesel out the top. Make sure you pump slowly, and try not getting it in your eyes!

]6. Slightly oil and slide the oil seal down and press it into the outer tube. To seat it, I found the easiest way for me was to cut the old oil seal, put it over the new seal, then use a screwdriver and a hammer to tap onto both of them to get them into place. I then pried out the old seal.

7. Slide down the seal retainer clip and "click it into place

8. Slightly oil and slide down the dust seal and press it into place. I tapped mine down with a socket and a rubber mallet. I worked my way around it.

9. Put the damper rod into the fork tubes and install the 8mm hex bolt. When you feel the damper rod start to spin, just pull on it slightly and it should do the trick. Torque to spec.


76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
10. Install the compression damping force adjuster with a 14mm wrench and torque to spec.

Installing Springs/Spacers

1. Begin by putting the top cap back together. If you removed the 0-rings and expander ring, apply a dab of fork oil to them before sliding them back onto their components. Install the o-ring onto the rebound damping force adjuster and screw the adjuster into the preload spring adjuster.

2. Slide the o-ring of the preload spring adjuster into place, and slide the expander on halfway. Insert the ball bearing into the hole on the side of the preload spring adjuster and slide the expander over it.

3. Apply fork oil to the preload spring adjuster o-ring and screw it into the fork cap.

4. Set the preload fork adjuster to halfway, or the forth line from the top. Set the rebound damping force adjuster to 1.5mm above the preload spring adjuster

5. Loosen the top cap lock nut all the way down. Slide on the spring and two spring seats (washers). Screw the top cap onto the damper rod until the damper rebound force adjuster slightly seats onto the damper. Once seated bring the lock nut up to the top cap.

6. Place the spring retainer onto the top spring seat. Push the lower spring seat against the spring, then measure the distance between the two (measurement a)

7. Slide the inner fork tube all the way up towards the top cap and measure the distance (measurement b)

8. In a vertical position, we want the top cap to be resting (on the spring, seats and retainer) 20mm higher than the fully extended inner tube. In this instance our measurement b was 25mm, but we only need 20mm. This means the measurement a must be 25-20=5mm shorter. That will be the length of the spacer

9. Cut the spacers

10. Install the spacer. In my case, there was a bit of play in the damper. It would move up-down 5mm before contacting the spring retainer. This is OK. When we compress the assembly, this slack will be eliminated.

11. Extend the inner tube up all the way and measure the distance between the bottom lip of the fork tube and the top of the inner tube. It should be 20mm. In my case, it was almost 21mm. I can live with that

13. Remove the top cap, spring seats, retainer clip, spacer and spring. Tie a piece of wire to the damper rod. Add oil (407ml US, 452ml Canada) and begin pulling up on the wire. The damper will begin filling with oil. Oil will start to come out of the top, so pull up slowly, then either press it back down and repeat or let it slide down by itself. Do this about 10 times. Then hold the wire up and slide the inner tube up/down about 10 times. Place the assembly to the side for about 10 minutes.

14. Slide on the spring, spring seat, spacer, spring seat and retainer clip.

15. Just as before, screw on the top cap until it lightly sits on the damper rod.

16. Tighten the lock nut and preload spring adjuster using 14mm and 15mm wrenches.

17. Slide the inner tube up and recheck that the gap is still 20mm. Apply fork oil to the top o-ring and simultaneously compress and turn clockwise to close the fork assembly. Tighten shut

18. Slide the fork into the fork clamp and line up the mark with the top part of the clamp (10mm)


Now go do it all over again
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