Custom Fighters - Custom Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Member
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, boys and girls, today we're going to learn how to make a replacement indicator light panel.

I decided to make one of these when I switched from my dual headlights to an Acerbis Cyclops. When I mounted the Cyclops, the fit was way too tight for my gauges to stay in place so I removed them with the intentions of adding a Veypor gauge in their place. The problem with losing the factory gauges is that you also lose your indicator lights which have varying levels of importance. On the 919, I had turn signals, oil pressure, neutral switch, MIl (malfunction indicator light) and high beams.

Once I decided which lights were important to me, I took a trip to Radio Shack to see what I could find. I wanted this to be relatively simple, so I went with the LEDs that had resistors already built into them. That meant less soldering for me. I also needed a panel of some sort to mount the lights onto.

I left Radio Shack with the following:
(1) Part# 276-084 Red LED Assembly (quite small).....Low Fuel Indicator
(1) Part# 276-270 Red LED Assembly (larger).............Low Oil Pressure
(1) Part# 276-271 Green LED Assembly (larger)..........Neutral Switch
(2) Part# 276-272 Orange LED Assembly (larger)........Turn Signals
(1) Part# 270-1801 Project Enclosure (3x2x1).............Ended up just using cover

My Grand Total was $12.98 tax included. Not bad!

I looked at my bike and determined the best place to mount my lights and went about test fitting the cover plate to see how to best mount it. A short time and a grinding wheel later, I had it. Your plate will most likely differ from mine depending on your type of bike and where you choose to put it.

Once I had a working plate, I went about drilling the holes based on the sizes provided on the back of each package. Easy as pie!



Now came the fun part. For MY bike, I went ahead and cut the harness leading to the gauges so I would have an easy way to tap into each needed wire. This also gave me the ability to quickly disconnect the panel if I needed to. Here are pics of the wiring harnesses with the needed wires noted:




Some of the lights (turn signals) were very easy to wire in. All I had to do was run test leads to the turn signal wires going to the cluster. Power and ground and done.

The other lights proved to be a bit more problematic but not by much. Looking at the FSM (factory service manual) for my bike, it turned out that the neutral switch, oil pressure light and MIL (if i had chosen to do that one) needed the ground side of the LED run to the signal wire going to the cluster for each respective light. The positive side went to a switched ignition source. (By switched, I simply mean a wire that only had power when the key was on.)

Then I got to the low fuel light. For the time being, I've decided to use a standard incandesent light bulb for this one. The reason for this decision is that when using the LED the light would work properly when jumpering the circuit but when I plugged everything back up, the light would not go out! I tried tapping my test light into the circuit while the LED was still attached and the LED went out. Odd. I disconnected the LED and just wired in the test light. Everything was normal.

My best guess is that the LED did not provide the proper resistance (too high or too low...I'm not sure which) that the circuit needed to work correctly. If someone has more insight into this, please let me know so I can adjust my setup.

Honestly, though, I don't think it's going to bother me that much to have one normal bulb in there since it's only on when fuel is needed. It's not like it's always seen where it could be compared easily to the other LEDs.

This is what I ended up with after all was said and done:



Anyway, I know this was somewhat brief but hopefully it will lend a hand if you choose to perform this mod yourself! I will try to get some pictures uploaded soon.

Reese
 

·
the mad doctor
Joined
·
3,399 Posts
i'm getting ready to do something similar with my bike. ran out of gas AGAIN coming home from work yesterday, it's getting annoying. my main concern is (obviously) the low fuel light. i'll figure out what has to be done to make an led work for it, and pass the info along.

i think i may just mount the led's in my upper triple rather than on a pod, but dunno for sure. i can't imagine a 1/4" hole in the triple being that big of a deal as far as strength is concerned, especially on a thick billet triple.

post up some pics of your setup, i'd like to see it.
 

·
Function IS Form
19 Z900, 88 Kat11
Joined
·
17,432 Posts
Too bad I can't give mine a low fuel light or MIL like that. Those are the important ones to me. :/

Post the pic here so people can see what it looks like.
 

·
_____________________
Joined
·
1,365 Posts
Hi Guys. This is a really interesting thread and very much highlights the guages problem when you need to fit an aggressive close fitting nose to your fighter. I understand the need to be unique and individual in what we have to do and also how home custom builders have to be a pretty resourceful bunch to achieve the best net effect @ the most acceptable level of cost. So here is the solution to my problem that I am currently in the process of applying.

Here you will see the bike I took my styling cue from it's a Cagiva raptor with the 1000 TL mill in it and fitted up with a Simpson Predator bikini fairing, I was too late with my bid on Ebay and lost out but I thought too bad I'll do it to My Zook.

Now one thing I immediately noticed from the posts was that nobody was scaredy pants to start chopping into the wiring harness and using testers and stuff so I thought why the hell dont they use a complete compact unit like the tach pod assembly on the SV.


Of course I have a head start here, but for the close fit of the fairing them guages have got to be altered. So in the pics you will see how far the standard fitment sticks out from the front of the top yoke and why it is now standing @ a steeper angle to accomodate the closer fit. The fairing is in the paintshop and is ready on Friday. I'm getting the carbonfibre blade of the flyscreen portion masked off and the remainder blown in to match the bike.

Ok Ok so it aint flat black but you guys are lagging behind here cause I'm @ the cutting edge of the Bling Bling Renaissance ok :LolLolLolLol:

Look fella's its a super-slim tach pod with all yr fancy flashing lights just waiting to be hooked up to your wiring system so this is just my 2cents worth and may be something to consider.


http://72.41.238.69/RIDEREYE.htm
 

·
Function IS Form
19 Z900, 88 Kat11
Joined
·
17,432 Posts
That's a nice set-up BB. Mine are the stock gauges on a custom mount, if someone asks about my bike they always ask about the gauges. It's weird how people notice it.
 

·
Eff Tee Pee
Joined
·
29,631 Posts
thats a nice clean setup bb. HIGH FIVE!

is your bike lowered? the rear end looks a lil low!?
 

·
_____________________
Joined
·
1,365 Posts
Thx Guys It's good to talk a Lil' straighter every now and then less you think i'm out on parole from some funny farm ;-)

haelo: yeah M8 I did notice that guages pic in yr posts and I wasn't sure if that was you experimenting or that was the set-up you were using. I think that I had that wide set of Yrs in mind when I offered the idea of the compact pod up for a thrash with yous doods.

Adam: Hi-5 splat back Gd Buddz and thumbs up for the rep you gave me for trying to help Ceri the Welshman out...I can't say I've seen any posts from him lately so he could be sulking about havin' a Girly name when he didn't ever realize. If you read this Taff..don't worry my best riding buddy is called Nic, he says his Dad thought it up when shaving with a hang-over one morning :D

Re the Spennies Adam this is how I bought it and I'm 6'00 in my sox and sit ok with feet flat on the floor so it suits just fine M8.


Greenie: Hey Dood Glad you like 'em! They are the Remus Revolution cans that I run de-baffled like I was sayin' in the "Dyno Mania" thread in the performance forum. Shit they got a beautiful sound when your piling on the power its deep and rasping but as the revs hit 6k and on up ya get this spine tingling sound like calico ripping

I swear when this babe is done I'll stick a cam on and strutt my stuff on a real fast twisty road so you can see the mad bast in action and get a listen in to that gorgeous sound.

Peace Respect and 420 Madness to you All My M8's
:cfrocks:
 

·
_____________________
Joined
·
1,365 Posts
Hi Dougz. The frame on mine is stock. Are you Cllicking by the shots and looking @ the Cagiva confectionary???

Yes! If I won this Fkr it was a steal and I wd have fightered this mercilesly with flat black and every damn thing to make you lick yr lips. I didn't. But no hang, the guy that tunes my motor is not far away and has >THIS< up for sale now...

Look Man I know you cross hatch cool sites and I donna want any interferons in the other one so all I can say is check this out here then PM for non public details (U understando?)... I have lifted this from the blurb on sed site...Take care, I do not need Lynching just now ;-)....>>>>
<<<<


Ohhhh Lordy..145BHP SV

The spec on the bike is New replacement k5 frame,dymag 5 spoke mag wheels, gsxr750 k4 forks, gsxr1000k4 calipers, sv1000 disc's, LsL top yoke, Renthal superbike bars, gsxr1000k5 brake master cylinder, custom bates front lights, with custom made mounting's and clock mounting, front indicators are integrial of the head lamps, (you have to see it to beleive it) hel brake lines,Elka rear shock,galfa rear wave disc,Tail tidy, clear alternative rear light,
Talon rear sprocket 43t Afam front sprocket 16t and Afam chain.
One of the race motors from last year rebuilt and fitted with longer duration cams and TLR heads, 60mm throttle bodies (custom bore job)K&N pod filters and breather assembly,M4 full system with modified link pipe to allow enough gas flow for the tuned motor, and big bore titanium can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I just wanted to say that I am looking at this neat little piece of custom design and I think I will take it one step further. I am going to mount up a digi push bike speedo in the cluster also and have it all as on sweet little unit. Plus by doing this I should be able to rig up a light to shine on the speedo so I can see it at night? What do ya think??
 

·
Function IS Form
19 Z900, 88 Kat11
Joined
·
17,432 Posts
Go ahead and try it Krok. Just make sure you can get the bike speedometer out easy so you can replace the battery at will. You'll want the light shining on it to be at a very shallow angle and you'll want to be able to turn it off... during the day, a light shining on a bicycle speedometer will make it invisible.
 

·
Naked from the waste down
Joined
·
1,334 Posts
Who needs a light to tell you that?
I hear that.

Who needs a tach?

Unless you're racing time trails and trying to consistantly run within the .10 of a sec or running a shift light on a 9 sec car that only should rev to 6K, they're useless to 99% of the people on the street.

If someone needs a tach to know where their engines at, they most likely are an idiot.

For something like this project, fine. It adds to the bike. People like gauges, lights and switches. But really the only lights most people need would be oil pressure and water temp.

Only thing I need is a speedo to keep me at bay when a cops on my ass.
 

·
Function IS Form
19 Z900, 88 Kat11
Joined
·
17,432 Posts
Wow you guys are SO hardcore! I envy your ability to ride motorcycles with minimalist instrumentation. However did you learn? Is there a book? Can you link me to a thread? What tail will fit my bike?
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top