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BLACK BELT
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7,359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,701 ·
I know some Kawasaki ignitions have a strategically placed resistor so that the bike can’t be hot wired. If you know how to use a multimeter measure the resistance instead of voltage with a lead light
Interesting comment.

Most of the similar schematics I found show the ORANGE/YELLOW (dim) wire going to the ECU. One of the schematics I found said (theft) next to that wire.

I'll take a look. There's a cheap multimeter around here, somewhere. For sure, I've never used it.
 

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BLACK BELT
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7,359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,702 ·
I dont have a schematic, but there will def need to be a ground in there. Lights coming up dim or slowly is usually a poor ground.
This was a hot topic for me.

All the similar schematics I found show a BLACK/WHITE wire that goes to ground.





I searched online yesterday and the info I found said ignition switches don't need to be grounded. So, I'm confused.

To confound this issue, check out the wiring on my switch. This isn't modified. Brand new from Suzuki. The BLACK/YELLOW wire is spliced into the 2 RED wires.



 

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Breaking shit...
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3,472 Posts
yeah, the schematic is hard to see here at work but it looks like the ignition switch is a passthrough for power distribution and each circuit(s) are individually grounded. it is weird though, like you said, when I look up wiring info I keep seeing posts about a black wire as a ground. I did find an article about a guy swapping an 06 gsxr 600 ign switch into a kart and another member posted a pretty nice write up on how to do it, but it uses the black wire as a ground setup that you dont seem to have.... still, here is a link, since youre making a custom application, the info might be useful.

swap info starts at post #4
 

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Breaking shit...
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3,472 Posts
thinking about it, it might be easier to figure out a wiring solution with a multimeter than the schematic. the big red wire is the 12v supply from the battery (via the starter relay in the schematic, but that doesnt matter). using a battery, attach positive to the red wire and the negative clamp of your test light to the neg of the battery. with the test light, test each wire of the switch in each position of the switch and write down the results. some circuits will be key on battery power (AUX power for key on but no ignition power), some key off power (for memory units and ecus) and some will only be powered under running position. once you know those outputs, you can wire each component of the bike in as needed.

that sounds complicated now that i re-read it but it really isnt. try it and if you need any electrical help just let me know and Ill help however I can.
 

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BLACK BELT
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7,359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,705 ·
None of the components or wires in this pic are mounted or connected. Just trying to figure out how and where they should be located.



One of the big issues is where to place the numerous wire connectors. Got some cheap connectors, and noticed a few things. First, there are 2 ridges on the bottom, so the connectors sit flat. Also, all these connectors are the same thickness.



On the top, they're flat with a notch under the clasp. Looks like a piece of flat metal would fit rightly.



Hopefully, I can modify the regulator/rectifier/grounding bracket drawing, and make another flat bracket with 2 spacers to hold down some connectors.

 

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BLACK BELT
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7,359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,708 · (Edited)
tidy looking set up there. the two ridges on the bottom slot together with a receiving piece that holds it in place if the retaining strap idea doesnt work out.


Trying to mount 2 wire connectors close to the edge of this panel. Not enough room to put a retainer bar on top. Will need to fabricate brackets to hold from the bottom.

1mm thick titanium sheet arriving tomorrow.

Shit. I wonder if I could just buy the receiving pieces.

Well, probably not in titanium. 🛠
 

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BLACK BELT
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7,359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,710 ·
Been thinking about making some (temporary) changes. Putting the dry clutch on hold, for now, and working on a wet clutch.

If I can get the bike finished and running, I can have the dry clutch as an upgrade. With a wet clutch, the engine should be bulletproof. Just don't want to deal with more potential problems right now.

Found a billet clutch cover I've never seen on an RZ. Made for a drag Banshee. Too wide for the RZ because it has room for a clutch lock-out. My idea is to have a new (shorter) ring fabricated. Doesn't look like a very difficult piece to CNC mill, but we'll find out. New cover has no oil pump, so is great for the pre-mix plan. Also has a red window to match the Stator cover, and I could anodize the water pump cover gold, and use TiN titanium hardware.

 

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BLACK BELT
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7,359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,715 ·
Started looking at the wiring on the front of the bike.

Realized I'm missing one of the wire connectors/loom for the Speedo/Tach. Spent 2 days looking for it, then contacted the manufacturer to get a replacement.

Missing Loom goes here:



Info in the Gauge Manual:



Received this message:

Hello Peter,

We dont make a loom to fit the 4 way plug on the back of the tacho (if thats what you mean), this is usually for an external shift light to plug in. Can you explain what you need this for?

Regards

John.



....Fuck me, again.
 

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striple addicted
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193 Posts
Wasted a lot of time and can't find the correct schematic.

I figured out that the GRAY wire probably goes to the dash for speedo/tach lighting, and the ORANGE/YELLOW wire probably goes to the (GSXR) ECU.

I think the correct conclusion is that the switch isn't working properly.

I may not need those 2 wires, anyway.
you can find the manual on manualedereparatie.info
 

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BLACK BELT
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7,359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,719 ·
Received the Molex connectors and pins. So, I'll be able to test the wiring to the gauges.



2 days ago, I took some time and finished up all the dimensions for the titanium grounding plate. Was planning on making the final drawings yesterday.

For no good reason, I spent the whole day yesterday thinking about painting the frame (again). Just trying to figure out if I should attempt to paint it myself. The lattice tubes seem extremely difficult. Looks like I should use a gun or airbrush (tip) with a maximum 1 inch spray pattern. Was looking at House of Kolor spray can paint, but don't think it would work, even with an adjustable can nozzle.

Very happy I didn't make the final drawings for the grounding plate. Was looking at it last night and realized I should have used (2) 2-pin connectors, instead of a 4-pin connector. Otherwise, 2 of the electrical boxes will be wired to one connector. Need to make another titanium mounting bracket, and recalculate the dimensions.

 
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