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On your stabilizer...can you place thick o-rings or even an oil seal on both sides of the ball joint at the frame mount clevis? The rubber should compress when necessary but keep everything from flopping around.

Later, Doug
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
On your stabilizer...can you place thick o-rings or even an oil seal on both sides of the ball joint at the frame mount clevis? The rubber should compress when necessary but keep everything from flopping around.

Later, Doug
That was my initial thought too, I will try that tonight if I can find my box-o-o-rings:D
 

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Hack in a barn
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About the tank, usually I love when an older steel tube frame bike has that area open. Mostly because the bike visually looses a lot of weight when side covers and air box's, tanks and what not are left out of there. Makes it seem lighter...

But damn that oil tank fit's the bike so freaking good! From the grips to the gas tank to the tail the oil tank, for me at least, fits the bill perfect! One of those rare times it actually completes the body work of a bike...

Oh well my 2 for what it's worth, killer bike either way!
 

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Legit goon
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First off, awesome bike man, can't believe I missed out on it for so long! Its almost exactly what I'd eventually one day want to build - beefed up with a retro feeling, kickstart, etc. In. Love. (Please don't be too pissed if you one fine morning find the bike gone :rolleyes: )

I like the seat no flap and definitely have the diamond stitching there, awesome! What's your thoughts for a taillight? A led strip on the lower edge or a round one?

Also a bit torn on the side flap. I've always loved a minimalistic look on a bike, not too cluttered and a clean mid section under the tail definitely is all that, but the oil tank really fits there and comments the kickstarter era. I'd say leave it on, but I wouldn't mind the bike without it as well.

Keep the updates coming!
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
First off, awesome bike man, can't believe I missed out on it for so long! Its almost exactly what I'd eventually one day want to build - beefed up with a retro feeling, kickstart, etc. In. Love. (Please don't be too pissed if you one fine morning find the bike gone :rolleyes: )

I like the seat no flap and definitely have the diamond stitching there, awesome! What's your thoughts for a taillight? A led strip on the lower edge or a round one?

Also a bit torn on the side flap. I've always loved a minimalistic look on a bike, not too cluttered and a clean mid section under the tail definitely is all that, but the oil tank really fits there and comments the kickstarter era. I'd say leave it on, but I wouldn't mind the bike without it as well.

Keep the updates coming!
I tend to agree with you, Diamond stitching, no flap. But that means more work:doh:
Have to build a seat pan out of fiberglass. That's why I am hoping someone will make me change my mind. For the tail lights I have these less the bracket
 

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sickboy
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Is every single carb starving for fuel? if thats the case then sounds like your on the right track with the air lock. Is the tank vented?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is every single carb starving for fuel? if thats the case then sounds like your on the right track with the air lock. Is the tank vented?
It seems like it. I took the air hose and blew down the center carb fuel inlet thinking the needle might be stuck, the fuel ran in but wouldn't shut off so I am not sure if I fugged something up or not. after that is when I fire the bike and it actually ran fro a bit until the carb ran out of fuel. I tried it again today and the same thing, fuel seemed to go into the center and right carb but nothing on the left. The bike fired right back up with the choke but only on 2 cylinders. I even tried blowing air in the tank to pressurize it to push the fuel out. but that didn't work. On a positive note the air in the tanks did pop most of the dent out of the fuel cap!
 

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sickboy
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Probably need to pull the bowls off the carbs and check the fuel needle valves then. could be sticky
 
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Probably need to pull the bowls off the carbs and check the fuel needle valves then. could be sticky
I would bet it's this. I had a similar situation with my t350 where I would try to prime the engine but the fuel would only go into the left carb. Turns out the fuel valve was closed from all the gunk from sitting for years even though I had soaked them in carb cleaner prior
 

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Is my bike ok?
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Hey dude, that welding ain't so bad. Looks like your penetration is spot on and that's the most important thing.

You probably already know this, but just in case it helps, it looks like you may have a bit of a lazy bead pattern. Meaning you aren't moving the tip of your gun much when you move. Like the far left pattern here.



The middle pattern is the one 'they' will show you to use when you're first learning, but I think it's a shit pattern, IMO it creates too much weld build up and just looks sloppy.

The fast zig-zag pattern on the far right is the one I think creates the neatest beads. Zig down, zag back up: Goes normal speed in the zig, but go fast on the zag. Hope that makes sense.

Another thing you can do for your bracing,since it will be exposed, is to bump weld the piece in place. Don't run a bead pattern at all, just drop a single bead, give it a second to cool, then drop another on it before the glow completely goes away. It will almost give you the rope of dimes TIG look everybody likes. Hope this helps. I struggled with ugly beads when I first started welding (still do sometimes :D ) and found these two things helped me the most. Good luck and build on, bikes gonna look nice dude.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Shiny that's good info. Everything I know about welding I have learned on my own and appreciate any info that you guys can share. I can only tell it's a good weld by the sound. The beads look lazy cause I get hypnotized by watching the light :D I have been experimenting with the half circle pattern and found it builds up too much like you said so I agree with your analysis 100% and will try the zig zag next time.
 
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