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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had this for some time but other projects etc have got in the way & this left in the corner of the garage. I discovered the rear wheel was too far over to the left. 1 option was to fit vfr internals to the swing arm & go 4 stud but I'm not really a fan of 4 stud wheels. I kept doing my research & I took a gamble on a ducati wheel. as there was only 2 of us bidding I got it for half the buy it now price that is usually wanted. The gamble paid off as the wheel needed spacing over the other way by 5mm, result! Due to being buried in corner of the garage I couldn't really work on it properly. My neighbour said he's getting rid of a shed, so I had a look at it & decided it'd be worth spending some money on to replace the rotten parts. I built a lift too, now it's in its new home hopefully I can get stuck into it
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Putting the side engine mounting bolts in 1st had the engine sitting on the wonk. When I lifted the engine at the rear it hit the lower frame cross member not allowing me to get it up to the rear mounts. I removed the side mount bolts & wrestled with the engine putting the rear in 1st then lifting the front to put the side bolts in but only the left side would line up. I'm not sure if the engine side bolts are not dead opposite each other or the frame mounts aren't. So I'll need to cut the righthand side mounting lug off & reposition it. The sprocket was behind the frame when I 1st put the engine in now its lined up, just gotta get a bolt 250mm long & make a couple of spacers.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Made up some spacers & I'm going to remove the horizontal tube at the front & put one in a bit lower just above the headers where I've placed a piece of flatbar. I can take lugs from that to hold the front side mounts
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Need to put in a spar across the front just above the headers to take 2 lugs off it to support the engine but can't get the tube in without removing the headers. Its alright suzuki fitting ti headers but 20yrs has taking its toll on the mild steel bolts. Gonna have to remove the front end to drill them out
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I started out with some easy outs for socket heads but
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that didn't go to plan 🙄 the easy out for socket head didn't work so I got a m10 nut & drilled it out 0.5mm smaller than the head of the bolt, then hammered it on then welded it on the inside. Worked fairly well, snapped one & I'm struggling to get the last one out. I tried a 1/4 Allen key it went in then rung out. Tried an 8mm but too big, I've got it moving with a large screwdriver & hammer. I tried welding a nut on the outside leaving enough room for spanner but that didn't work 😠 don't like to be beat but I had to stop as it was getting late 😒
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flatten the front of the stud, make a drill guide with the pitch of the exhaust stud holes , clamp using the good hole, drill out the broken stud.

welding a nut on and roasting the ally can work, but if it doesn't your drilling through weld ,
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Yantosh but it's out, welded nut to the stud & heated the threaded hole on the engine. It fought me all the way.
I discovered the 32mm tube I made up to go across the front of the engine just above the headers won't go in unless I reduce the width which would mean filling the gap around the mitred ends with weld which would reduce the strength. So plan B is to weld 4 (2 each side) threaded bosses to the frame down tubes then make up a triangular bracket to the threaded holes on the engine like this
 

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