I did, I used a 3" pvc coupler with some 8mm bolts, I should have taken a photo of how badly they were bending. I used another wrench to act as a holder while I took the cap off. At first I was using some S hooks and the straps to compress the spring. That was a bad idea, the S hook came out of the hole and bruised my hand pretty bad. Overall, it was a good experience; and was not as difficult after I figured out what I was doing. I am a little nervous about the transmission swap for sure though. I am guessing you have not had trouble with your second gear?Did you make the fork tools yourself? I ended up making the whole pvc threaded rod tool and flat metal holder deal for the r1 forks on mine... I have never been scared about loosing a finger while servicing forks before. That was a unique experiance...
Kind of hard to explain, but yes there is the classic R6 first to second problem on my bike. Wide open first to second, if you do not know how to do it right, then yes there is an issue...It's not so bad as it pops out of gear, but if you do not do it just right then yes WFO first to second is not an easy upshift as expected and will grind a tad.I am guessing you have not had trouble with your second gear?
Here is my setup, the bolt head takes a 19mm socket. The bolt head on the right goes into the axle perfectly, the left side is double nutted and the spacers in the middle take up the extra room. the nut all the way on the right is a nylon lock nut....Anyone know what size bolt would fit to remove my front wheel? I have a spark plug socket that fits, however, there is no way to revers fit the socket extension. I saw online that one used a bolt with the correct size nuts to the remove the front wheel.
From top down, large acorn nut then flat washer.I went to go the hardware store to build one similar to what you had made and just decided to buy a spark plug socket that would work for me. Thanks for the help! Also, Like an idiot, I didn't take time to remember how the bearings go together for the steering stem. I have it currently as follow; race, rubber gasket then bearing for the bottom. On top; bearing, rubber gasket, and lock nuts. I have another metal piece that I know goes on the bottom and it looks just like the race. Does this go before the bearing on the bottom? I know I should have taken photos. Anyone know the correct order?
From top down, large acorn nut then flat washer.
Then the two bearing adjuster nuts and lock ring. Rubber gasket washer below those. Then the bearing into the neck.
Tried to get a pic of the bottom but it didn't come out good. The rubber gasket washer thingy should go on the stem first. Then press the race on so it sit on the washer then that goes up into the neck.
EDIT: Maybe that bottom washer is large enough to just slide over the bottom race instead of needing to be place on before the race... Been a while since I had it apart. That sound right?
My guess is that metal piece you were talking about is the lock ring for the two slotted adjuster nuts? Or is it the top washer for the stem nut?
No problem man, anytime.
Yeah so what you got in the last picture is, from left to right, gasket washer, bearing, and then the inner bearing race. When placing those on the lower triple go gasket washer first, then press on the inner bearing race.
Not saying you HAVE to, but when doing this it's usually a good idea to hit up a place like http://www.allballsracing.com/ for some new bearings while you are in there. Biggest benefit is that you'll get a nice set of tapered roller bearings with new gaskets and races instead of the ball bearings you got. They aren't crazy expensive and they ship stuff quick.
Like I said if the inner and outer races look good and you didn't scare them up bad removing them then ok regrease the ball bearing and run it, but the replacements are cheap insurance...
Got a danmoto jisu on my R6, for the price it's a great exhaust. Would recommend...