Its been a while since I posted but I came across a banging deal and grabbed it. Clean paperwork K2 600 for ~$1k. Great running condition. Some tasteless mods, but we can fix that pretty quick. Ghost flames, underglow and ostrich seats yo.
However one thing bugging me is the C30 FI code. Previous owner(s) pulled the secondary butterflys. I took apart the airbox to confirm. The butterflys themselves are gone but all the electronics and such remain. I traced the wires but they disappear into the main harness so I am not sure if its missing the actual module (if there is a separate module) or if its all part of the PCM.
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
Basically I want the light gone. What are my options? Is there an electronics workaround? I did some cursory googling but found nothing. Could I just get some butterflys, bolt them in, and go? Will that solve the code? I dont care for the "extra" power I just want to be able to use my FI light in case there is a real problem.
I will do so this afternoon. I did some circuit design last night, so I may be able to beat this thing. Also ordered some parts.
Could someone please post a pic of a "tail fairing less" K series? Or specifically the location of the STCU plug? I think the previous owner may have deleted it, butI need those wires. Going to pull the tail fairing this afternoon.
Hmm. So then what does the C30 code mean? If the STCU is inside the ECU then maybe I can just build my sim circuit, cause it plugs in at the sensors, and it will all go away. Guess its a place to start. I will hold off on ripping apart the harness till then.
maybe service manual for 600 k2/k3 model could answer that
haven't found where they move it on 600 k2/k3, but on newer model it seems they named it STVA (Secondary throttle valve actuator)
STVA is the mikuni thing in the first picture.. I have the official K2 manual, and it says that its supposed to have that computer STCU on the tail on the right, thats what the whole confusion started from.
In that schematic it has the sTCU built in. Perhaps mine is the same way. but if its built into the ECU why am I getting the C30 code. I will try to ping it to the ECU, see if I even have the right ECU, and then build my sim, and see if that helps.
Thanks for your help, I will start up on the bike again in the morning.
Its all good. got one for $60 shipped, plus the stuff for the STC delete circuit comes in tomorrow so I should be code free by next week. *fingers crossed*
I got my circuit built. New ECU is in place. I managed to get everything working briefly and got the codes to go away, but by then the battery voltage was around 10V and it started throwing all sorts of nonsense. So I called it a day. Hopefully with a fresh charged battery I can get this wrapped up tomorrow. Also discovered that one of the wires (the sensor to ECU wire) is broken in the harness somewhere. I managed to jump it around so now it should be ok for tomorrow.
also I need a K1-K3 gauge cluster with around 30K on it. I got one off ebay, but it doesnt fucking work, so I got a refund on it.
So the final word is that it works. The bike reads C00 about 95% of the time. Occasionally C29 will pop and then go away. Perhaps a few resistor tweaks are required but its good enough for my purposes. Information for the people who come across this later.
-K1 bikes (600/750) have separate STCU that plug in the tail near the dealer mode plug. The PN is : 32910-39F00.
-K2 and later 600/750/1000 all have integrated STCU in the ECU.
-K1 600 ECU part number: 32920-39F30
-k2/k3 600 ECU part number: 32920-39FD0
First ping all your wires. There are two connection.
3 wire plug (blue/yellow/black):
Blue = 5v (ref ground)
Black = Ground
Yellow = output signal to ECU. Its the smaller of the two plugs in the top row. Its yellow here but at the ECU its yellow/white.
2 wire plug:
Black/red - down
Yellow/black - up
ping to ECU its the two wires next to yellow/white wire.
Now we have to build the circuit. I suggest getting quality parts from Mouser. I have linked everything you need below. I suggest getting extras. The total cost is about ~$12 give or take.
Plus you need some short lengths of wire, a protoboard (say away from radioshack) and some sort of case. I had a hammond box laying around that fit nicely. You can also take black silicon and immerse the circuit in order to seal it.
Here is the circuit.
Here is what you should have when your done:
Here are the plugs in question. Just stick it down there under the tank somewhere.
also a video of the circuit in operation so you can see how to test it. A good tip is that all your USB chargers and stuff are 5V so if you dont have a variable VDC you can use any USB charger http://youtu.be/EHijul2aCCc
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