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Mr. Good Kat
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Back in business:

Now, here is the stock under-the-engine cross bar that was annoying me.



And here is how I imagined this:



2.5mm thick steel tube. 25mm OD, metal plug at the joint.


10 mm thick engine mounts. I extended the engine mounts for a future sub-frame and a bash plate / skid plate.



10mm thick swing-arm / engine / foot pegs mounts:




Mock welded




The other side:



The engine will be dropped out the frame to finish and clean up the welds.
 

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Mr. Good Kat
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
A new day, some new updates:


Clutch perch + lever and front master cylinder - polished, levers shortened via hand saw, some speed holes and turned out like this:




The fuel petcock needed a clean and some TLC also:





The fuel tank received some massage with a deadblow mallet / rubbert mallet. My first time of creating some knee dents.





Cheers!
 

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Mr. Good Kat
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Good morning, f*ckers! It's 8:47 am here in Bucharest and I got new updates regarding the frame.


Frame loop is done. My friend doesn't have a 100mm radius roller to create the loop so he cut - weld - polished the welds as you can see in the pictures.

Enjoy!






upload image


upload image
 

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Super Moderator
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5,603 Posts
Quite a bit of welding though and a whole lot of grinding!
 
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Mr. Good Kat
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Quite a bit of welding though and a whole lot of grinding!
Indeed. I can't wait to pick the frame up. Need some more things, here and there and I can send it to the powdercoater.

I think I'm goint to stick to the old-fashioned black.


I got a question for you guys: Do you know if the powdercoat will cover the VIN number?

Do you got any experience with this?
 

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More than likely it will. You can ask them to go easy on that bit or cover it with the special heat resistant tape they got, though removing it might chip the edges. My experience from PC is from work as I used to deliver stuff for an industrial PC painter who had a heavy trigger finger so might be others don't go quite as thick as he did. Once had a pair of brake calipers PC:d red there, he coated them so thick they looked like they're dipped in liquid plastic. Lost all subtle details.
 

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Member
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all depends on your powdercoater, it shouldn't if done well, but a lot of places are heavy handed

my blade arm




thats after powder and a smoked clear powder top coat
 

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Mr. Good Kat
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
all depends on your powdercoater, it shouldn't if done well, but a lot of places are heavy handed

my blade arm




thats after powder and a smoked clear powder top coat
Hey yantosh! The VIN number on my TU is engraved into the frame as on most steel frame bikes.

On your blade’s swing arm I think the letters are embossed as far as I can see in the picture.

P.S ... the powdercoating is gasoline resistant, right?
 

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Mr. Good Kat
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
what happened with this project man?
Hey dave!

The project is not finished yet. I've let it aside for a few months because I had other money pits and all my funds were directed away from the little Tu250x.

Two weeks ago the gas tank went to the paint shop, probably one of these days I'll take it back.

The frame is still at my friend's metal work shop, he needs to weld the side stand bracket and turn the frame loop upwards to a 20 ish degrees.

I've ordered a new ignition switch from emgo, because I want to put the ignition on the side of the frame.

I couldn't imagine that you could do so many things on such a simple motorcycle.


Do you guys know where can I source some simple (and cheap) alloy fenders? Are there any chinese sellers on ebay that are selling alloy fenders?
 

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Damn that`s cool!
 
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Mr. Good Kat
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Discussion Starter #38
Damn that`s cool!
Thanks! :D In reality it looks better, didn't had the lightning condition to take some nice shots of it.

The downside of this casing is the weight. It weighs about 190 grams. But it looks nice. The standard casing was a plastic shell, and there was also a bracket that attached the speedo to the top triple tree. The total weight was about 120 grams.
 

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I had aluminium holders for the Gauges on me old RIII they were heavy but looked pretty good ,yours looks much better .Nice work matey.
 

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Mr. Good Kat
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
I had aluminium holders for the Gauges on me old RIII they were heavy but looked pretty good ,yours looks much better .Nice work matey.
Thanks ROBBO!

Last few weeks I was thinking at a way to get me some nice wheels and also keep the cost down.

Initial plan was something like this:

Strip the standard wheels, replace all spokes and nipples with stainless ones, powdercoat the rims and hubs, relace them, true them and call it a good job. Law-wise this would satisfy the police but cost-wise, this would kick my wallet right in the nuts.

The second plan that crossed my mind is the following:

Forget about the law and buy some nice alloy rims from Aprilia RS 50 or Derbi GPR 50. Actually the rear rim of the RS50 uses the same dimensions of rubber as the Volty so onlye the front would be problematic but I don't care.

These are some pretty light weight wheels AFAIK, I can fit some nice tubeless rubbers on them and would look awesome. And I don't need to worry about trueing, lacing etc. the wheels.


The downside of this is that on the rear I need to make an adapter for a brake caliper (I'm going to buy the complete set of wheels with brake rotors, calipers, axles to make a good fitment.


It would be a first time for me to change the wheels on a motorcycle.



As a side plan I was thinking to get the complete front-end from an RS50 but looking on the internet, the weight of the RS 50 is about 90 kilograms, my bike will weigh about 110 +/-. Also, I don't know the how long are the RS 50 forks. Any of you folks have access to a program / database to send me the wheels & forks dimensions for RS50 / Derbi GPR 50 (offsets, hub width, fork length etc) ?

 
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