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Premium Member
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2,225 Posts
Any particular reason to use the rs50 parts over parts from an rs125? Idk in your part of the world but in UK, the 125 parts are much more common, so cheaper. I guess the 125 is also heavier so would come with heavier springs. Or spring, I know the mito 125 used a single fork spring with the other leg just for the damping so maybe others are same.

Best bet is just get the wheels and make them fit. If you're doing a whole front end swap, there are very few combinations that can't be made to work with a big enough hammer.
 

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Mr. Good Kat
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
Also, I need some enlightment regarding the rear wheel cush drive.

I want to change the spoked wheels with alloys but I hit a wall regarding the selection of wheels.

First I said that I'm going to use Aprilia RS 125 wheels ...then I noticed that the sprocket and disc are on the wrong sides, flipping the rear wheel is not a solution...plus, the tires are too wide for my project.

Then I said that I'm going to use Aprilia RS 50 wheels...seemed nice until I noticed that there is no rubber cush drive on the rear wheel.

AFAIK, the role of the cush drive is to protect the transmission from the shocks of the rear wheel.

Now...the wheels I am aiming are from a HONDA NSR 125 (2000). They look nice but the rear wheel has some cylindrical rubber bushings instead of the triangular rubber cush drive.

Anyone knows if there is a problem regarding the transmission if I decide on using the NSR wheels?

Important notice: the bikes above are all 2 strokes, my project is a 4 stroke, I don't know if this matters.




I am looking for a pair of alloy wheels, with the sprocket on the left, brake disc on the right, not too expensive (preferably around the year 2000-2005 to get a good price) front tire width between 90-110 and rear between 110-130. If you got any other suggestions, let me hear.


...OR IF YOU GOT A SET OF ALLOY WHEELS FROM A 125cc BIKE THAT MEETS THE CONDITIONS MENTIONED ABOVE, TO THROW AWAY FOR BEER MONEY, LET ME KNOW.
 

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V four honda whore
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12,327 Posts
there are sprockets with rubbers. you can scoop around JT sprocket homepage for options
 

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Mr. Good Kat
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
there are sprockets with rubbers. you can scoop around JT sprocket homepage for options
Regarding wheel's I've set my mind to Yamaha MT125 wheels. Nice alloy spoked wheels, perfect dimensions AFAIK and not too expensive.

But first I need to get the bike back from the shop and fix it for ITP (the equivalent of MOT here).
 

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Mr. Good Kat
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
Cool project! I’m digging it, and excited to see where it goes.
Thanks! I’m trying to do my best. Somehow I’m angry because it lasts more than I estimated. The tank stayed @ the paint shop for 3 months, frame @ the welding shop for 8 months.

Hopefully I’ll get the frame in a few days and start finishing it then send it to the powder coating.

Cheers!
 

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Mr. Good Kat
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
Removed some of the frame tabs that I won't need. I got a few more to go but will remove them after I'll drop the engine since I need to manipulate the frame in some weird Yoga poses.




The way the frame looks from the side.





Threw a GN250 seat on it just for a quick mock up. It looks a bit tall. That's because the seat doesn't align with the frame and the frame loop pushes the seat upwards. I'll build a custom seat. But first I need to figure out a way to use the standard locking mechanism and where to put the key lock. Or I'll just build a custom seat latch.





 

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Mr. Good Kat
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309 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
throw that seat in a fire
Exactly my thoughts! This is why I want to build a custom one. The biggest concern right now is the battery tray.

I’m keeping the standard airbox since it will be used as a daily commuter and I have no idea on how to work with a carb. The airbox is pretty big which leaves me little room to fiddle with.

The standard battery tray is out of discussion since the tabs holding it were removed in the cleaning process.

I was considering putting a quality pod filter (not ebay mesh cheap ones) but I don’t know on what to look when I’m picking one, and who will do the right tuning for it.

I’m open to suggestions.
 

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Registered
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1,400 Posts
You're doing some great work there chap, and this is going to be a rather cool little city bike I think, although I have to admit that I was a little disturbed by this pic...



Are you making bits in the nude?...
There ya go, most were just ignoring to fact... but nooooooooooooooooo you had bring it up. LMFAO!!!!
 

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Newbie
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1,533 Posts
no one ever gets pods to run right, they just lie and say they do, and only ride their bikes to get coffee or meet some friends lol.

just get a tiny tiny battery and jam it in someplace. if you got a cylindrical style batter from a big power tool, or a custom made mini one, and you could mount it pretty much anywhere, and you could put it in a metal water bottle, and drill a ton of holes in it so it gets air flow, but it still looks decent, and keeps with the
aesthetic of the bikes curves. similar to how people mount over flow reservoirs, but you could mount it wherever on the frame.
 

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V four honda whore
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12,327 Posts
@scottyp do you go only to hipster meets with pods?



Sent from Erics moms house
 

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Member
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10,543 Posts
no one ever gets pods to run right .... that's a rather sweeping all knowing statement, keeping the inlet rubber from the airbox and fitting a ram air foam filter can free up space and run just fine,but.. the carb will need messed with,
 

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V four honda whore
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12,327 Posts
Dave is to stubborn to do that. And im saving bad words

Sent from Erics moms house
 

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Newbie
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1,533 Posts
If they were actually functional, bikes would come with them. Manufacturers wouldn't spend more money than they need to. As well the aesthetic is superior, which would make podded bikes better sellers.

HMMMMMMM, I guess they like throwing money away on ever bike ever made, right?

Also, running right means you don't have to change your plugs every few hundred miles, you bike will actually idle at 1k, not overheat, and rev properly with no flat spots what so ever. like a stock bike in proper shape will. I have never, in my life, seen a podded bike do this. Every single one is running rich as fuck, and the revs will hang up for fucking ever until it runs all that trash you dumped into it, or has massive lean spots. Bikes that hang up on the revs are fucking useless. So are bikes you have to hope get through a lean spot if you get even a slight breeze coming your way or you had a big lunch.

And when you do get them to run somewhat close to what a bike with an airbox will run, they are far less efficient, but even then, they just never run as well. I have never seen one. He would be better off retrofitting cbr250 efi system to the bike, and running a 8-12" intake tube stuffed with foam. you could tuck it up under the tank or seat and no one would know.

here is my impression of all you european dudes building busted old 90s bikes and putting pods on them.

"It runs so well, it only took me 4 months to tune it. I mean, it still leans out up top of course, and sometimes its tricky to restart when its hot, but thats the valves or something else, certainly. (changes plugs every other month, bike gets 9mpg) But its great!"

I love all bikes. I am fucking with a carbed bike right now. I reek of gas and its pissing off my wife. But I will never pretend a podded bike will run as well as a bike with an airbox. I am not delusional. Nor would I ever recommend someone try to do it.

Also, you can take your "it works on dirt bikes" argument and fuck all the way off. All that does is prove my point. They are run rich as hell, and need constant maintenance, and they are all going to efi now cause its superior to cave man technology.
 
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