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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So these lights (2015 Nissan Murano headlights) came with these black box thingies, one for each light.
Testing the lights out, they function on direct 12V power... they ALSO function with the box between the power source and the light, and might be a bit brighter that way but I'm not sure.

Do I need to incorporate these black box thingies into the system?
If so, is it possible to drive both lights off one? (Just in case I happened to fry the one I was using to test stuff... cause uh... I'm pretty sure I did).

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nope. I'm running on the assumption that since they're LED's, and they're replacing normal lights that in theory take more juice to power, that I shouldn't have any issues with the charging system.
 

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it's a driver.. and yes it would be best.. and would need one for each light...

led's run on different voltages.. and higher wattage led's need a box like that.. can't really be run off a resistor like little ones can... well it could i suppose.. if you wanted it to bad enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok so I did a little more testing, and actually found some posts about this driver on another forum that for whatever reason I couldn't find before. I've learned 2 things:

1. They're definitely brighter with the driver in the mix.
2. I definitely fried the other one.

So, is there any way to modify the working one to be able to run both LED's? What exactly gets fried in these things? Is it fixable?
 

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mcantar, I'm assuming those are LED projectors? If so the box is a constant current power supply. It limits current to the led so it doesn't go into thermal runaway and die. It might also control brightness based on some input, I see an extra wire pair.
You won't likely be able to use one box for two lights if it was designed for just one since it won't have the necessary current, plus it won't be able to regulate current to each LED since you would have to wire them in parallel. Is that one low and one high beam? I don't see any wires for a movable cutoff.

To answer your question you should use the driver, they may work on the bench for a minute or so without but after using them on the bike in hot weather, they may get hot and go into thermal runaway and smoke. I could give you a better answer if I had more info about those. They look cool, that's what I was looking for but settled for the regular bi-halogen projector with the movable cutoff shield because it was cheap and I only needed one.

So does one box not work? They should be short circuit protected, thermally protected, etc. What did you do with it that you think you fried it? A pop, smoke? It's actually surprising that you didn't kill the led by hooking it directly to 12V, was it a battery or an AC wall converter. I'm guessing the wall wart because it wouldn't be able to source the current. I'm guessing if you hooked the LED directly to the battery on your bike it would have gone poof.

And since I'm here the reason you need a driver with a high power LED is because of the wattage you would have to dissipate with a current limiting resistor, it would be large. Resistors running that much power turn in to heaters and burn stuff. There's other reasons too like thermal protection or feedback to control brightness.
 

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Ok so I did a little more testing, and actually found some posts about this driver on another forum that for whatever reason I couldn't find before. I've learned 2 things:

1. They're definitely brighter with the driver in the mix.
2. I definitely fried the other one.

So, is there any way to modify the working one to be able to run both LED's? What exactly gets fried in these things? Is it fixable?
If they are brighter then it's a boost converter and it's running the LEDs at more than 12V.
You can try wiring the LEDs in parallel to one driver but you may fry the driver, or it may just be dim, but it might also work.

It might be fixable if you get it open and can get to the board and then can reverse engineer the circuit to see what needs to be replaced. Maybe just an SMT fuse if you're lucky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I had that thought. I popped it open, nothing's burnt, and I have no idea what any of this is...


 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
mcantar, I'm assuming those are LED projectors? If so the box is a constant current power supply. It limits current to the led so it doesn't go into thermal runaway and die. It might also control brightness based on some input, I see an extra wire pair.
You won't likely be able to use one box for two lights if it was designed for just one since it won't have the necessary current, plus it won't be able to regulate current to each LED since you would have to wire them in parallel. Is that one low and one high beam? I don't see any wires for a movable cutoff.

To answer your question you should use the driver, they may work on the bench for a minute or so without but after using them on the bike in hot weather, they may get hot and go into thermal runaway and smoke. I could give you a better answer if I had more info about those. They look cool, that's what I was looking for but settled for the regular bi-halogen projector with the movable cutoff shield because it was cheap and I only needed one.

So does one box not work? They should be short circuit protected, thermally protected, etc. What did you do with it that you think you fried it? A pop, smoke? It's actually surprising that you didn't kill the led by hooking it directly to 12V, was it a battery or an AC wall converter. I'm guessing the wall wart because it wouldn't be able to source the current. I'm guessing if you hooked the LED directly to the battery on your bike it would have gone poof.

And since I'm here the reason you need a driver with a high power LED is because of the wattage you would have to dissipate with a current limiting resistor, it would be large. Resistors running that much power turn in to heaters and burn stuff. There's other reasons too like thermal protection or feedback to control brightness.

Missed your post the first time around. Thanks for taking the time, Solid.

I tested the lights from the battery and from the headlight connector, both direct to the power source and with the black box inline. When I was holding the wires from the box to the headlight connector, one of them sparked just a little tiny bit as I was inserting the wire into slot on the connector. Since then, when I plug either light to the box and the box to 12V power, the light flickers once and then stays off. Both still work both direct (which apparently I shouldn't be doing anymore) and through the other box.
On the other box, I tied the 2 white wires (power) and the 2 black wires (ground) together and put them to + and - on the bike... works like a charm. No idea what the brown wire is for.

Here's the only source of information I've found on these boxes, or any of the Murano wiring system for that matter...
https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/fo...15-nissan-murano-led-low-and-high-beam-output
 

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Missed your post the first time around. Thanks for taking the time, Solid.

I tested the lights from the battery and from the headlight connector, both direct to the power source and with the black box inline. When I was holding the wires from the box to the headlight connector, one of them sparked just a little tiny bit as I was inserting the wire into slot on the connector. Since then, when I plug either light to the box and the box to 12V power, the light flickers once and then stays off. Both still work both direct (which apparently I shouldn't be doing anymore) and through the other box.
On the other box, I tied the 2 white wires (power) and the 2 black wires (ground) together and put them to + and - on the bike... works like a charm. No idea what the brown wire is for.

Here's the only source of information I've found on these boxes, or any of the Murano wiring system for that matter...
https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/fo...15-nissan-murano-led-low-and-high-beam-output
Since you said the lights are brighter with the box then they need more than 12V to reach the proper voltage drop which is why you didn't fry the LEDs by hooking them to 12V. The current is being limited because the junction isn't saturated yet.
A spark from the connector isn't a surprise but shouldn't have been a problem, only thing I can think of is maybe because you had the box powered before the LEDs were connected the controller didn't like that. General rule is always connect your load before power supply. Look at the bottom of that board too, there will likely be traces there since I can see vias on the power traces.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I thought the link said that the reflectors were the high beams? I have those too, the package came with 2 projectors, 2 black boxes, and 2 reflectors. I put the reflectors to the side because I thought they were turn indicators or DRLs or something. After seeing that I wonder if it'd be possible to take the LED off one of the high beams and stick it in one of the projectors...
If I can run both off one, that's definitely good news.
 

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I'm betting on the high and low beams using a similar amount of current, I'll bet you can run both high beams off of one box. But you need to check out the beam and make sure one of the high beams aimed down will work as a low. It doesn't look particularly wide either.
One of those extra wire pairs probably switches between high and low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That would make sense.
So the LED's in the projectors and the LED's in the reflectors look the exactly the same. What are the chances that they're the same LED, with the same lumen output, just with a different throw/pattern?

Reflector:




Projector:

 

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Try connecting the two projectors to the high and low beam outputs of the box and then try powering those two pairs of yellow/orange wires. I suspect one pair controls the high circuit and the other one controls the low. I am guessing if they are both powered up both lights will come on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok, interesting stuff. I plugged a projector and a reflector into the working box, touched the leads to the battery and both lit up. Then I tried plugging the same lights into the fried box and the reflector (black connector) lit while the projector (white connector) did not. I swapped the lights on the connectors (same type of connector, just different colors to differentiate) and the black side, now the projector, lit while the white did not. Then I tried hitting the brown wire with 12V hoping it would switch (thinking maybe I had just hit it to power on accident and switched the light off), but it had no effect. So I guess only the white connector circuit path is fried on that one?
 
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