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· British Bloke in Canada
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2,160 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I guess we all know that if you install a set of LED signals, they end up flashing like a SOB....

any how I thought Id mention, the trick is to use a risister, and I guess we all knew that, but what type....
basically you need a 10watt 5ohm risister and run it in parallel between the positive and negative wires on your signal, you only need to install one on each side of the bike.

Price: $1.66
 

· British Bloke in Canada
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2,160 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
nope....they are ceramic insulated.
 

· All star !!!
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6,774 Posts
yeah, here is a long winded post I had posted on SVrider for installing a hot bodies undertail on the SV's. Its got the info on the resistor to use, as well as a link from where I found the information:

I'll give you the best little write up I can do on here. I don't know if it is the same for the 650 as it is for the 1000, or which bike you have for that matter, but here goes:

FYI: I opted to keep the stock undertail in place, and just do minor trimming as necessary. Some people trim the stock undertail off where it meets the Hotbodies, but I personally did not like that idea.

I am starting this also assuming that you already got rid of the rear fender.

Disclaimer: You are going to permanently alter the stock undertail with this procedure, so be warned.

1. Remove seat and side plate covers.
2. remove rear seat or cowl.
3. There are four bolts holding the stock undertail to the frame of the bike. Loosen the front two and remove the rear two.
4. Trim the extended sides of the stock undertail, the sections that have the holes for the plastic rivets that held it to the rear bodywork. The new Hotbodies undertail is going to be rivited in there later.
5. Push the stock undertail up into the frame of the bike, making it so that the plastic supports for the rear of the stock undertail are about 1/2 inch higher than original, and look to see where you need to drill a new hole in the above mentioned plastic rear undertail support, to use the stock mounting point. That is a whole lotta words for saying you are going to relocate the mounting hole for the rear sides of the stock undertail.
6. I wanted my stock undertail to be really held in place, so I drilled two more holes in the underside of the stock undertail, so that it could now be bolted, with the stock bolts, to two of the four open holes from the original rear fender mounting points.
7. Get a rough idea of where the blinker wires for the Hotbodies are going to need to come up through the stock undertail, and drill them through too.
8. I personally liked the stock Suzuki blinker connectors, so I snipped them from the stock blinkers and wired them into the Hotbodies undertails wires. The hotbodies comes with LED blinkers, which wil make them blink too fast. You need to wire in a resistor to overcome this issue. Here is what you need for that:
RadioShack
10 ohm 10W 5% Wirewound Resistor pk/2
$1.69
Catalog #: 271-132
and a link to the site that explains it: http://www.81x.com/WTObjectFrame.aspx?ProjectID=51753&Page=005&RND=683849290

In wiring these in, it is pretty simple. Connect your positives and negative wires for each blinker. Then picture those as being the two vertical sides to the letter "H". The resistor then goes accross, between the postive and negative, making the horizontal section of the "H". Wrap the Resistor with some sort high heat tape, because it will get hot when the blinker is on.

9. Mount up the new undertail with the stock plastic rivets and you are done. I will warn you that I had to push and prod my Hotbodies to get to line up with the rivets holes, but in the end, it saw things my way.

:wink:

Good luck
Edit...I see that link is now dead..oh well.
 

· British Bloke in Canada
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2,160 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
LeviSS, yeah just left and right....ive done it with mixed tyoes of bulbs and it works perfectly
 

· Eff Tee Pee
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29,545 Posts
i think that faster flashing blinkers may actually be a good thing. . . easier for all the RETARD CAGERS to see.

:twocents:
 

· Eff Tee Pee
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29,545 Posts
hmmm..... that wouldnt be good.

is that actual and factual?
 

· Function IS Form
19 Z900, 88 Kat11
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17,636 Posts
I've had people on 3 very memorable (read: tire smoking) occassions turn in front of me because they thought my turn signals meant I was slowing down for them

also because people don't see them, and I'm afraid I'll end up assuming someone sees them and get smashed
 

· Eff Tee Pee
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29,545 Posts
i just use em for the ocifers. i always assume that im a ghost and no cars see me. cuz they certainly drive that way.
 

· British Bloke in Canada
Joined
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2,160 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yeah well there not gonna see em if you, don't have them...

Any how its a ticket offense not to have signals on your bike here, I run integrated signals as well, cause if I ran just integrated Id get a ticket too.
 

· Member
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98 Posts
I guess we all know that if you install a set of LED signals, they end up flashing like a SOB....

any how I thought Id mention, the trick is to use a risister, and I guess we all knew that, but what type....
basically you need a 10watt 5ohm risister and run it in parallel between the positive and negative wires on your signal, you only need to install one on each side of the bike.

Price: $1.66
Actually, the type of resistor you will need will vary based on your application (number of leds, series vs parallel, etc, etc) BUT, heres a handy link that i've been using for led projects for a while now.
http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz You should be able to get the forward voltage and forward current off the specs sheet wherever your getting your leds from - i've used superbrightleds.com in the past and they were good
 
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