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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Whelp got me another bike, I got a bright idea one night, "hey, I have this rifle just sitting in the closet that I dont want but am too lazy to go sell, how bout I see if someone will trade me a bike for it". I hopped on craigslist and found a few bikes that looked like a decent enough trade and sent them an email or a text and most shot me down or the bike was gone. I ended up getting down to 3 that said they might do it and then one said "come over tonight and lets make a trade" so I grabbed the rifle, threw it in the truck and came home with this.



Pic from the add^^ and the next day vvvv



Guy was asking 500 for it, and I got the rifle for like 100 bucks about 10 years ago so it was a steal for me. I ended up offloading that fat bastard off my truck by myself, mostly because I dont talk to anyone outside of work and partly cause I tend to do things myself like an idiot sometimes. It bottomed out on the ramp I was using so I had to give it a little bump up to get it over the lip and it ended up laying on its side after rolling down and I somehow ended up with a gigantic bruise on my arm. I didnt get pics of either because I just wanted to get it in the back yard. and after much huffing and puffing it now sits here vvvv




Come to find out the reason it was such a pain to move is because it was still in gear. I woulda known if I was the one that did it but the guy I got it from put it in gear after we loaded it

A quick inspection has shows that there are a few motor mount bolts missing, the shocks dont have nuts on them to hold them on, the front brake is locked up and probably needs to be rebuilt, and that ugly saints gold HAS to go (thats what I get for living in the heart of who dat nation).

Just a few more pics for referenceVVV



As of right now I just want to get it on the road so I can use it to commute and take small trips with the wife, but in the process I need to get another passenger peg, maybe even swap them to something else, I want a new tank (something more square and not tear drop shaped like an old kz550 or even a cb tank but idk how it would look on there and if they are the same length, i'll chop down the fenders to a more sleek look and the rear will be more bobberesk but not full on bobber since I will still have the back seat, swap out the bar for lower ones and maybe swap the risers out too so they dont have the taper.. and just for giggles I even thought about a fork swap to the 97 zx9r forks I have but that might be a little much work, a quick search showed I couldnt swap the bearings and use the same stem (if they were the same length) so we will see, I mostly thought about it since I have them and they are just sitting there.

oh and what the heck is this for? vvvv

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: 96 Vulcan 1500 de-fuglify

Who knows i might end up keeping the same colors just a different paint scheme, my high school colors were black and gold after all lol. It looks like someone did a bunch of bad painting over chrome and its now peeling off so i'll have to strip that off and start over on it


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: 96 Vulcan 1500 de-fuglify

Haha well he litterally gave me a bucket of bits lol so theres that lol. But like i said i want a more square tank on it, i'll get some measurement off of the current tank soon and see if anyone can help figuring out which ones would fit relatively easy. And i'll try to figure out what to do about a headlight, and gauges also if i swap the tank


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: 96 Vulcan 1500 de-fuglify

Whelp i went to checkin things out this afternoon, the bucket he gave me basically just has the headlight (which is bent and warped to crap), guages, a couple of new blinkers that i probably wont use, and a bunch of other things that dont even go to the bike.

The exaust was loose and just dangling there so i pulled it off and turns out that one of the bolts came out of the motor and that its also cross threaded, so any advice on how to fix that would be helpful. There were also no bolts for the rear fender, seat or even the tank so its all just sitting on there or i moved it to the shed. So not alot done but it gave me an idea of what i need to start with. I'm also charging the battery too so i can try and start it soon, the guy i got it from showed me a video of it running, and i turned it over myself so i know it will run


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Re: 96 Vulcan 1500 de-fuglify

That's a bummer about the exhaust thread. When I was heavy in to drag racing ( lots of taking things apart on a regular basis) we used to heli-coil every bolt hole in our aluminum heads. Intakes manifold and headers were constantly coming on and off. Heli-coils worked fine on the cold side of the head, but not so good on the exhaust side. I guess their springy nature didn't do well with the heat cycles. Occasionally I'd have one that's want to cling to a bolt and not turn loose, and end up galling the head when it's come out with the bolt. Loctite'ing them in to the head wasn't a good ideas as it tends to just ooze through the insert itself and would make a mess. It's not really any more work to install an actual insert. Time-sert, or whatever brand they sell around you. They're pricey for what they are, but that'll probably be your best bet. At least they install with a common tap vs heli-coils that use their own specific/random taps.

Sounds like your po was a really doozy. You might want to give that engine a good once-over before you try to start it. A little more time and effort now might save it's life later.

I really like the swoopy fenders and drilled heat shield. You mentioned a different tank...what are your welding abilities/options?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: 96 Vulcan 1500 de-fuglify

I've never heard of Time-sert, and they just look like a better quality from what i have seen from a quick google. I'm going to look into those. So should i lock tight it in place when i put it in or no? That and the stud actually. And if so which clolor red or blue? I always forget which one is the more permanent one.

I think the problems are a combination of the most recent owner and the one before him, the most recent guy got it so he could turn it into a project and might have seen what i am now and got stumped. I could tell he wasnt too into working on bikes though because he had another cruiser in there and said "i like the riding position of the vulcan better" and really the only difference was the handlebars being lower. And he had a 636 in there that had stickers everywhere and the expensive off the shelf stuff on it.

I'm ok at welding, but definitely not a pro. I also dont have a welder right now either so i may need to wait on a tank swap. But there are also quite a few welders around here, but how reliable they are idk because i havent used them or know anyone who has


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Re: 96 Vulcan 1500 de-fuglify

Blue is the weaker and red is the stronger. Red releases when heated to 500*F, so it won't stay on your exhaust anyway. Blue releases without needing to be heated.

The time serts are solid metal inserts that you stake in to place after it's installed, so there's no need for thread locker IMO. Heli-coils rely on the spring tension of the insert itself to keep itself in place. Since they're just wound wire, that's why I mentioned the loctite oozing through.

Whatever you end up with I would definitely use anti-sieze when you go to mount the exhaust. Exhaust systems are so famous for producing seized fasteners that I don't think I'd encourage it any further ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: 96 Vulcan 1500 de-fuglify

Gotcha, i'm gonna grab some of those time serts, we'll see if i can find it local. And probably just use the anti-sieze on the nut side of the stud since the stud is supposed to stay in lol.

Does it take a lot of precision to do the time serts? Like jig required? Or can i basically eyeball it and use a steady hand?


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
96 Vulcan 1500 de-fuglify

Haha, well i ran around town today (not much work available and they asked for volunteers to go home so i took a personal day) looking for the time serts, no one had them and the only thing i found were helicoils. I ended up putting the exhaust collar on and tightening it down with the other stud, and then chased the threads with a tap. Probably not the preferred way of doing it seeing as some of the threads wont bite as well but for now i think it will hold. It was only partially cross threaded and now i can slip the collar on and off, and before it wouldnt go on at all because one was cockeyed.

Now i just gotta give it a once over, new oil and filter, i already checked the coolant, its full but none in the reservoir, check spark plugs, after i know it runs i'll go through the brakes, which i have a spare rear brake in the tub which is good if i need parts and i may swap to that one anyways since its in good shape and the one on the bike has a decent sized gouge in it.

I feel like i'm missing something to check, any ideas?


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Re: 96 Vulcan 1500 de-fuglify

Sounds like you've got the priorities right - check it'll run before sinking any money at all into it.

Do you know how long since it ran? Could be old fuel in there. May also be worthwhile to drain the float bowls, check if they have old fuel and or water in there.

If there's any sign the cam covers have been off, check the valve gaps and if it's on a timing chain the timing too. Check all the dumb stuff like if the leads are on the right plugs too. Sounds like PO could do stuff like that.

When it comes to nuts for the rear shocks, they're liable to be metric fine. Probably m10x1.25. You can get this kind of thing on eBay but of Oem has a particular shoulder or is a metal locking nut or some such, may as well get the oem.
 
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Re: 96 Vulcan 1500 de-fuglify

Sounds like you've got the priorities right - check it'll run before sinking any money at all into it.

Do you know how long since it ran? Could be old fuel in there. May also be worthwhile to drain the float bowls, check if they have old fuel and or water in there.

If there's any sign the cam covers have been off, check the valve gaps and if it's on a timing chain the timing too. Check all the dumb stuff like if the leads are on the right plugs too. Sounds like PO could do stuff like that.

When it comes to nuts for the rear shocks, they're liable to be metric fine. Probably m10x1.25. You can get this kind of thing on eBay but of Oem has a particular shoulder or is a metal locking nut or some such, may as well get the oem.

wise advice
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: 96 Vulcan 1500 de-fuglify

Its not a bad bike honestly, but i say that having not ridden it yet lol.

I changed the oil, and it looked good, and probably recently changed. Which is good and better safe than sorry.

Then i started it up. And proceeded to piss a pint of gas out of this tube vvvv





It looks like a breather tube or overflow tube but idk for sure and idk why it would do that. So any thoughts would help.

Also the sight glass is in the stupidest most inconvenient place ever.





When i start it, if i kick it in gear it rattles like crazy, and dies when i start to release the clutch so i think the previous owner was right about the clutch plates being stuck together


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Re: 96 Vulcan 1500 de-fuglify

I've been staring at that one pic for several minutes and still can't see the sight glass. :D It must be a dog.

Not sure where that carb hose goes either, but one thing's for sure...that R&R will never have problems getting fresh air.

I dunno about the clutch rattle, but if the bike is not dying in gear with the clutch disengaged then the plates must not be stuck. If they were suck it'd die the instant you clicked it in the gear, or try to take off like a rocket.

Can you push the bike in high gear with the clutch lever pulled in?
 
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