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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am still working on it but the goal is to make a more "cafe racer" style tank. I had improved the look of the standard tank with my glued on rubber checker plate.
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I wanted to give the tank a longer more old school look while showing the rear cylinder head, have an incorporated air box, hinge up like standard, fit my single throttle plate conversion and custom manifold, and add a fuel sender for the new dash

So I when to the bike wrecker and bought a Honda tank that I cut up to give a starting point
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Then I made a hoop of 6mm rod the shape I wanted the bottom of the tank to be.
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And did a duct tap mock up
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More to come stay tuned
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Next step, extent the shape to what I need.
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Forgot to say, I needed to spit the tank at the rear to get the width correct to blend with the seat.
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Next massage the handle bar and knee dents to rough shape while stile on the bottom 6mm hoop.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Next step was put in the dividing wall between the fuel compartment and the forward air box which I hope to make a cold air intake but still not sore how yet.
This is the made with a bent lip around it which serves a purpose.
It provides a way to get a good fit buy bending in and out, and buy doing than gives a better way to weld it (because I am a shitty welder)

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The shrinkage from the weld is obvious but it will just have to be filled before paint.


Next step a bottom on the tank section. I had cut the divider panel just enough for trial fitting and cut some of the hoop away to allow me to get the tank body panel in.
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Its far from a tank yet but it's 1 step at a time

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
bottom welded in and cut for temp fit while working out the centre recess. and splash of semi gloss to get an idea how it's looking.
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And that where it's up to today.
I did to a cardboard model of the recess shape but I have decided not to use it and just work it out as I go.
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After the underside is done comes the fuel sender, petcock, hinge for tanks mounting rear, strengthening around the front air box part and front mounting plate and nearly forgot to list the fuel cap.
I have the sender to suit the new dash, original petcock, factory tank hinge and a old school gas cap.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Still going, ran the welds all the way, some need attention but I will get there.
Made up a hinge bracket for the back of the tank out of 2mm plate strong enough to check it works but thin enough to bend to get it sitting correctly and check the opening.
Now that the tank hinge is holding the tank in the correct place, opens and closes, and gaps to the seat and frame are good, I can go ahead and add bracing to strengthen the hinge.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is what I am thinking.
Enclosing the top 2 3/4" of the tank, this will go 1/2 way down the intake flange and seal on a rubber ring.
I can then mount the air filter drawing air from the underside of the tank, most likely I will block hot air with a heat shield and maybe put some holes low down the tank handle bar dents.
There is room to use my current air cleaner or I could use a modern style flat filter of a matching size.
I am not sure which would work better.
This is a rough drawing any thoughts are welcome.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I silver soldered the new filler bung into the tank I am making.
The bung is stainless steel and the tank is mild steel.
I am using 2% silver rod from the plumbing supplies.
I used a propane torch to tin around the tank opening and I planned to sweat the stainless part on after adding flux.
But my propane torch was not heating the stainless quick enough.
So after some experimenting I used the Tig torch set to AC 35amps with flux and gas, and it worked.
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CAPTAIN AWESOME®
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I silver soldered the new filler bung into the tank I am making.
The bung is stainless steel and the tank is mild steel.
I am using 2% silver rod from the plumbing supplies.
I used a propane torch to tin around the tank opening and I planned to sweat the stainless part on after adding flux.
But my propane torch was not heating the stainless quick enough.
So after some experimenting I used the Tig torch set to AC 35amps with flux and gas, and it worked.
View attachment 153838 View attachment 153839 View attachment 153840
Very cool. Never seen it done that way before
 

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BLACK BELT
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I appreciate the work you're putting into the tank.👍

Have to ask, though. I don't know if it makes any difference, but the flip-up/Monza type caps I've seen, flip up the opposite way (hinge on the front).

Just curious why you did it that way. Is it because the tank flips up from the front? If it's just a design choice, I think you should do what you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I appreciate the work you're putting into the tank.👍

Have to ask, though. I don't know if it makes any difference, but the flip-up/Monza type caps I've seen, flip up the opposite way (hinge on the front).

Just curious why you did it that way. Is it because the tank flips up from the front? If it's just a design choice, I think you should do what you want.
I know Its a less than good picture, but the hinge is toward the front. and nearly spot on 1/2 way down the length of the tank. The obvious dents in the pic are bar dents at the front.
Thanks for the input, I googled pictures of flip up caps just prior to installation, to me it seems to easiest way round for filling.
Raining today so I don't think I will get much done.
 
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