[jonax13]

hi all CF!
i need ur expertise, knowledge & wisdom on this guys, i've read on other forums regarding this mod, but i have yet to know on how to apply this on my bike.
my bike is a 2003 honda cbr 600rr,
these are the forums i've read so far;
http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63693
http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63111
http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48236

regarding to the previous wirings (maybe this will impact my plan), i had a horn (korsa brand) installed months ago, i discovered the mechanic used a bosch 5-pin relay when i opened my bike up a few weeks ago.
i also installed a LED strip connected to the position light to have this "audi" style look.

my plan is to replace the 2 H7 bulbs with 2 H4 bulbs so that when i flip "on" a switch, both bulbs will be on low beam then when i push the high beam switch on the handle bar, then both will be on high beam.
here's a pic on the wiring from the manual;

i already bought a bosch 5-pin relay, replaced the 20amps on the fuse(the one a few inches from the batt. in the diagram) w/ 30amps, & 2 100w H4 bulbs cut to fit the H7 bulbs place.
but as i have found out thru opening the "hood" & thru this pic of the wiring (encircled), this mod seems to be a complicated & tricky one to do.
so my question/problem is how to go about the wiring on the headlight when my bike already have this headlight relay for the high beam? which wire colors do i cut/connect/splice to the relay and out?
i've played w/ the wires myself, trying different combinations the present vacant wires from the stock lighting... but to no avail. i could not make the low beam of the H4 bulb light when i turn on the key...

thank you so much even for reading this thread! i apologize for making it a long one.
any help on this matter guys, even in just pointing me to the right forum w/c i have not yet read is greatly appreciated! i'm already missing my ride...

thanks so much my fellow CFs!

God bless u all! :rock:
^_^

 

[piester]

i got this. you already have a 5 pin which is good. you will need a regular 4 pin relay as well. this will ensure consistent and bright headlights

85 switched input for headlights (some wire that is hot when the bike is on. license plate light works good. tail light positive would work as well.)
86 ground
87 to pin 30 on 5 pin relay
30 battery positive with fuse


85 switched input for highs (the wire that used to go to high beam)
86 ground
87a to low beams
87 to high beams
30 output from pin 87 on secondary relay.

 

[jonax13]

Re: thanx for spending a few minutes of your time on a WIRING problem i have.

i got this. you already have a 5 pin which is good. you will need a regular 4 pin relay as well. this will ensure consistent and bright headlights

85 switched input for headlights (some wire that is hot when the bike is on. license plate light works good. tail light positive would work as well.)
86 ground
87 to pin 30 on 5 pin relay
30 battery positive with fuse


85 switched input for highs (the wire that used to go to high beam)
86 ground
87a to low beams
87 to high beams
30 output from pin 87 on secondary relay.

ok, copy on the wiring setup! thank you so much sir Piester! arty-smiley:
wow, of all the forums i've joined, CF.com is by far the best to go to for help! :cfrocks:
but a quick question though, & forgive me for asking this, :sorry0: where/what wire do i take to the 86 pins? where's this ground wire/s? do i wire a connection myself to the chassis of the bike? or is there an existing one i can connect both 86 pins to? :redface:

and also i just got from the auto store, it seems they don't sell 4-pin relays there. so i just bought another Bosch 5-pin relay, w/ the intent of not using the 87a.
is this okay? :thumbsup:
i can't wait to go home later & try this setup out! :run:
will post pics soon as i have it done sir so that you can see the results of your invaluable help!
:yeah:

 

[piester]

yeah you can use a 5 pin and skip 87a. and you can use the headlight grounds if you want.

 

[planningoncrashing]

You can use your stock headlight ground for the relays, but you'll want to run a separate ground for the bulbs, preferably all the way back to the battery, with the same gauge wire as the power wire you ran from the battery. The same amount of electricity flows through the whole circuit, so if you use heavy wire on the power side, you need equally heavy wire on the ground.

As to wiring, I'd do it like this:

First relay:
30 - Battery hot w/ fuse
85 - Stock low beam power
86 - Stock low beam ground
87 - H4 low beams

Second relay:
30 - Battery hot w/ fuse
85 - Stock high beam power
86 - Stock high beam ground
87 - H4 high beams

H4 ground to battery

Since you're just using your stock lighting circuit to control the relays, it'll work just like your stock lights, e.g. low beams come on when they would normally, and switching to high works just like it would. You can also run each circuit off its own fuse, so if one blows, you still have the other. It also eliminates one set of switch contacts in each circuit versus chaining the relays.

This is just what I prefer. Piester's way works too. Either way, it'll be a lot brighter than what you started with.

 

[piester]

unfortunately your way would leave the low beams on when you click the highs on. not something you want on dual filament bulbs. oh his bike stock the low is always on. if it would work that way he could just use the stock wiring and forget the relays in general. unfortunate really. it would be so much cleaner that way haha

 

[planningoncrashing]

To be honest, I took one look at that wiring diagram and gave up. Too small to read on my screen. I thought those were one on at a time, but I've been wrong before...

Speaking of which, I've definitely run lots of H4s with both filaments on, and they do get hot, but they last a surprisingly long time. Not something I'd try with a plastic lens and reflector, and definitely not with 100W bulbs in plastic, but with old glass and metal hardware, it's viable.

Apologies for the tangent. Do it piester's way.

 

[jonax13]

To be honest, I took one look at that wiring diagram and gave up. Too small to read on my screen. I thought those were one on at a time, but I've been wrong before...

Speaking of which, I've definitely run lots of H4s with both filaments on, and they do get hot, but they last a surprisingly long time. Not something I'd try with a plastic lens and reflector, and definitely not with 100W bulbs in plastic, but with old glass and metal hardware, it's viable.
........

many thanks sirs for the replies!
i apologize for the wiring diagram i posted being too small to view. here's the link on photobucket: (if clicked, i think you can magnify the pic further on the photobucket website) :drinks:
<a href="http://s1347.photobucket.com/user/jonax013/media/my%20bike/Wiring2_zps781b3266.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p705/jonax013/my%20bike/Wiring2_zps781b3266.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Wiring2_zps781b3266.jpg"/></a>
your concern on the bulbs heating up too much is noted & very much appreciated.
this is why i plan on putting a "on/off" switch so that I'll just turn the lights on at night & not having both of them turned on all the time. but rest assured i will check out the lens & reflector regularly when i turn on these lights, & if i must replace the bulbs w/ a lower wattage H4s. it was a mistake on my part to buy these w/o checking the wattage first.
in the meantime, here's a pic i got earlier, i didn't have enough time to connect all the wires because i have to go to work.... maybe this Sunday I can finish this.

i'll post more pics soon.
thank you again & more power to the both of you!
^_^

 

[piester]

having both low and high lit at once can do a lot more than just melt plastic bits haha. i tried for a while to get it to work on my old headlight setup with a set of dominators.

 

[jonax13]

having both low and high lit at once can do a lot more than just melt plastic bits haha. i tried for a while to get it to work on my old headlight setup with a set of dominators.

so i guess i better buy a lower wattage bulbs then? :doh: i think the stock bulbs were 60w/55w. although i want to try a slightly higher wattage than the standard, if there is one.
better be safe than sorry, right?
but lemme just make this lighting work first before i buy new bulbs... :glassesf:
thank you sir Piester! :rock:
i'm excited to finish this tomorrow! :metal:

 

[piester]

those bulbs will be just fine. i was saying having both highs and both lows on all at once is a no no. to me at least

 

[jonax13]

sir Piester,
unfortunately, it's a no-go...
i definitely did some wrong here, especially on the 1st relay(i think).

it didn't light up when i turned on the key (coz i didn't install the on/off switch yet).
1st relay (4 pin) connections;
i connected pin 30 to the brown (where the horn's relay 30 is connected too) from red wire from battery's positive that have a 30amp fuse.
86 & stock low beam's ground (green/from the stock high beam's headlight relay)
85 & position light (brown/white colored - according to the diagram, this is on the same line as the license light)
87 & the 2nd relay's 30.

2nd relay (5 pin) connections;
30 & 1st relay's 87
85 & the wire from the handlebar switch to high beam (yellow)
86 & stock high beam's ground (green/also the line from the stock headlight relay)
87 to high beam pin of the bulb (right pin from a equilateral triangle view of the three pins)
86a to low beam pin of the bulb (top pin on the same view)

the reason i think it's the 1st relay that i have a problem with is because when i flip on the high beam switch on the handlebar, i can hear(& feel) a click on the 2nd relay. a click i don't hear on the first relay when i turn on the key. i've checked both relays & they both clicked each time when installed on the 2nd relay's socket.

so my questions are;
*is it ok to use the connections for ground from the stock high beam headlight relay? (the greens) according to the diagram, these green wires are also connected for negative on both left & right turn lights.
*immediately i noticed after connecting all wires that the left pin of the bulbs is not connected - is this ok that both bulbs have only the top & right pins connected to the 2nd relay?

as always i thank you for your knowledge & input on this matter.
i apologize this maybe dragging out longer than you expected...

 

[piester]

the headlight bulbs need to be grounded. that other pin that you havnt put anything in needs to be grounded or the bulbs wont light. and the first relay wont click on unless it is wired to work. you said they wouldnt light because the switch isnt wired up. wire everything up and connect 85 on the first relay to the positive to see if they light up

 

[jonax13]

Sir Piester,
I'll have another go later...
Copy on the ground of the bulbs,
I'll also try joining the 30 & 85 on the 1st relay from the positive wire of the battery afterwards if nothing happens.
What i meant on not wiring the "on/off" switch yet is that i didn't cut the wire from the battery to the pin 30 yet. For now it's connected directly from the battery, that's why i'm expecting that the turn of the key will power it up.
Thank you so much.
^_^


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App

 

[piester]

with the switched input connected right to the battery it will be on

 

[jonax13]

with the switched input connected right to the battery it will be on

i finally got the high beam to light up when i flip the hi-beam switch on the handlebar!
i connected the bulb's ground directly to the bike.

but unfortunately the low beam still didn't light up when i turned on the key...
but the positive news is, now there was a definite "click" on the 1st relay i hear/feel when i turn on the key!

now i wonder what i'm missing.... maybe the positive wire from the battery on pin 30?

i'll try to follow the red wire tonight! i can tell i'm close to success!

thanks, sir Piester!

 

[piester]

if the high beam is lighting up that means that the first relay is wired just fine. and the second relay is also wired fine with the possibility that the low beam power wire or ground are not right or the bulb is blown.

 

[jonax13]

if the high beam is lighting up that means that the first relay is wired just fine. and the second relay is also wired fine with the possibility that the low beam power wire or ground are not right or the bulb is blown.

i think its the latter, sir Piester. coz i was playing around w/ the wires & connections, i got both the hi & low filament to light up at the same time.
then i switched the wires on the bulb, & i got only the low beam light up.
i also tried to remove the 1st relay altogether & modify the connections, i still got the hi-beam light up. switched the wiring in using the 2nd relay only & i still got the low beam & furthermore later i even got both filaments to light up too. so i think the bulb is ok.

what i noticed earlier also was that when i turn the key, i tried pressing the horn it was also not functioning! all i hear now is the click on its relay as well & i didn't touch its wiring at all.... somehow i think this are connected.

thanks again & always, sir Piester!
^_^

 

[jonax13]

Re: thank you for sparing a few minutes of your time on a WIRING problem i have.

i finally got it! YES! arty-smiley:

firstly, the relay i got was the WRONG one! yeah it got 5 pins.... but then i noticed on the inscription of the side of the relay that it got 2 87 pins connected together! & not a 87A! so when i dismantled it i discovered is that the middle pin & the top pin (pin 30 being at the bottom) was connected!ipe: & so the default position has no contacts whatsoever! so later i'll buy the right relay & finally assemble it tonight! :run:
pics to come soon!
secondly, i blew a fuse on the tachometer! because of the connection i used. so i made a new connecting wire from the battery positve w/ 30 amp fuse too! now its all set.
thanks sir Piester for the invaluable help.:rock: i was able to understand it all now. :yeah:
^_^
:cfcartman: