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Chemical X
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, names cameron im from the UK currently just bought my first project bike and it needs alot of attention to get it in any reasonable shape.

My plan is to put a SSSA, new subframe and USD forks on. IF anyone has a guide for sticking maybe a R1 subframe or something with the "dolphin" tail look. PM me or reply in this thread :)
Here is my journey so far.

This is what it started life out as, A track bike which had been trashed and then stored for 1 year or more.


Taking a look under the "hood"


I attempt to fix the brake sticking problem the last owner told me about.
I find the pistons seized and shoes are close to dust. I replaced all the pistons and got them all sorted. (No pics of the new ones yet.)


This is the broken stater solenoid, i have since replaced this and it turns out it's not the problem, im guessing the previous owner had a remote start on the bike as theres wires for it because the ignition button does not work.


Previous owner came off on a corner and bent the exhaust to shit and sheared and seized in the downpipe bolts. Still trying to fix this :( might even buy a new engine if its cheap enough.


My new SSSA and old exhaust with the lazer can, i will be cutting down into a stubby :p


Took me a hour trying to get the back wheel off as everything is rusted to oblivion. Penetrating and hammering until i finally prevailed!


After the back wheel was removed i started to remove the swingarm... BAD IDEA. The whole shock linkage is extremely rusted in, im either going to have to buy a new bigger ratchet, get some heat on it or saw through it.


Finally got the shock linkage off, i cannot remove the bolt securing the dog bones but the rest came off :) blowtorch ftw!


The SSSA i have is slightly too big for my frame, by roughly 2MM. so ill take it down to the fabricator when ive got some spare time and see if he can mill the sides down. I also put my refurbed brake caliper back on the front, seems the braided hoses wont reach now though :p going to have to attach the hoses first and then attach it.


Got some longer braided hoses today :) buying them in red when the bikes being sprayed though :)


Thought i would check the air filter today, maybe clean with some compressed air i bought... Better be some powerful air to blow rust off...



Ok the SSSA is around 1 inch too big, going to have to machine that down. comparison:


Pulled back the rubber today to find the most amazing thing ever! A broken clutch lever and snapped bolt that keeps it tight, so thats a new assembly + cable i need to buy.... Well atleast you can get them in red :)



Wanted to check my front sprocket? (sure theres a name for it like on a BMX etc? chain drive?) there was like 3 years worth of shit inside it.... I need to invest in a jetwasher, the degreaser isn't working! it's almost rock solid dirt.




Thats my story so far, i will update with more pics as i get further, im working alot (80 hours :( ) and i got a holiday coming up.
 

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hi mate welcome its all ways nice to see another UK fighter , nice project you got there, in answer to one of your questionsi put home made subframe on 1981 GSX 1100 and then fixed R6 racing seat unit to it, il put up some picks i now plan to put R6
 

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Chemical X
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Finally got the shock linkage off, i cannot remove the bolt securing the dog bones but the rest came off :) blowtorch ftw!


The SSSA i have is slightly too big for my frame, by roughly 2MM. so ill take it down to the fabricator when ive got some spare time and see if he can mill the sides down.
 

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Chemical X
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
hi mate welcome its all ways nice to see another UK fighter , nice project you got there, in answer to one of your questionsi put home made subframe on 1981 GSX 1100 and then fixed R6 racing seat unit to it, il put up some picks i now plan to put R6
Any info on how to get a new frame on would be great! im looking at some subframes on ebay but they dont come with plastics and it's confusing me since ive only ever had 2 bikes. not sure whats a bargain etc. been looking at this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110857630097?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

But i have no idea if it uses stock plastics or stock seats. I wouldnt care if it had pillion crap on it as i might actually give some people lifts occasionally. But not too fussed in that department. ill be saving more money up for a non fighter to actually ride in winter and shitty weather.
 

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If it is as close as that, here is an idea that I have used before. There will be some steel discs on the frame to give a good mounting surface. Will they fit inside the dust seal space of the swingarm?

If you unbolt the engine, you should be able to sply the frame by the amount you're talking about and have it spring back. You could use a bottle jack if needed. Don't try and bolt the frame back together stretched, only do this if it'll go back together without and tension more than it had before.

If you are going to need anything removed, ideally off the ball bearing side as there you can use double rubber sealed bearings that will protect themselves to a decent degree. As an additional benefit, since this will only be removing the oil seal groove, it isn't a precision part, and you can remove it - CAREFULLY - with a hand file or angle grinder. Of course, you need to also be concerned about the chain and wheel alignment, which might mean you have to go off the other side, measure at least 6 times, cut only once ;)

That said even then on SSSA you can add spacers under the wheel or sprocket as required, so there's some flexibility towards getting everything lined up. Again, measure several times!

Are you anywhere close with pivot diameter, and shock centralisation, and bottom pivot mount / figured out what linkages you can go with?

About tails - careful, the 500 is a physically very small and low bike. If you go and the R1 tail you're thinking of, it's going to potentially make the whole thing optically too back-heavy. There are loads of fighters out there which look great in photochops but crap when realised, where you can scale parts as you want them, not as they are!
 

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Chemical X
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If it is as close as that, here is an idea that I have used before. There will be some steel discs on the frame to give a good mounting surface. Will they fit inside the dust seal space of the swingarm?

If you unbolt the engine, you should be able to sply the frame by the amount you're talking about and have it spring back. You could use a bottle jack if needed. Don't try and bolt the frame back together stretched, only do this if it'll go back together without and tension more than it had before.

If you are going to need anything removed, ideally off the ball bearing side as there you can use double rubber sealed bearings that will protect themselves to a decent degree. As an additional benefit, since this will only be removing the oil seal groove, it isn't a precision part, and you can remove it - CAREFULLY - with a hand file or angle grinder. Of course, you need to also be concerned about the chain and wheel alignment, which might mean you have to go off the other side, measure at least 6 times, cut only once ;)

That said even then on SSSA you can add spacers under the wheel or sprocket as required, so there's some flexibility towards getting everything lined up. Again, measure several times!

Are you anywhere close with pivot diameter, and shock centralisation, and bottom pivot mount / figured out what linkages you can go with?

About tails - careful, the 500 is a physically very small and low bike. If you go and the R1 tail you're thinking of, it's going to potentially make the whole thing optically too back-heavy. There are loads of fighters out there which look great in photochops but crap when realised, where you can scale parts as you want them, not as they are!
I have only a small clue on what your talking about, i really should learn more about bikes lol.
But the backend i was wanting is something similar to this:
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/showthread.php?9318-Suzuki-GS500/page2 gitzys version.

Pivot diameter, shock centralisation and everything is not sorted. I was going to stick the swingarm on then go from there and hope i could find a good shock to fit :p

The swingarm has it's linkage included, i'd have to get some dogbones fabbed because mine are seized. I was going to stick my old shock on and see what was wrong (too high etc) but seen as the swingarm doesn't fit i cant do that yet.

Im more of a pictures guy. If you could circle what you mean in paint on a pic of the swingarm that would be amazing :)
 

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I have only a small clue on what your talking about, i really should learn more about bikes lol.
But the backend i was wanting is something similar to this:
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/showthread.php?9318-Suzuki-GS500/page2 gitzys version.

Pivot diameter, shock centralisation and everything is not sorted. I was going to stick the swingarm on then go from there and hope i could find a good shock to fit :p

The swingarm has it's linkage included, i'd have to get some dogbones fabbed because mine are seized. I was going to stick my old shock on and see what was wrong (too high etc) but seen as the swingarm doesn't fit i cant do that yet.

Im more of a pictures guy. If you could circle what you mean in paint on a pic of the swingarm that would be amazing :)
You probably ought to learn more since you're playing with something quite safety-central :/

I am not keen on that type of tail but horses for courses :) It is a T595 swingarm that he has fitted. I don't recommend them as the rear link bearings are expensive to replace, and poorly sealed, while being right in from the road spray. It's a recurring, expensive, problem on T595s and really the main reason I punted mine on at 21k miles rather than any nearer to the 24k service that that. The bloke who bought it posted on an owner's forum the price of all the needle bearings. Ouch.

First tip - do not mod or hack your original parts til you know you can make this work. Frame mods are to be a last resort!

So get the arm between the frame by any means you can, even just loosely, and check if the chain is even close. Could be miles to the left, then you're in offset sprocket territory, or miles to the right and you can't line up the wheel. It does seem most likely to me that the wheel will line up, but chain run is all important.

Do both bikes at least have the shock sat centrally in the frame? It's not insurmountable if not as your frame is steel, but will be a ballache.

Really you're at a stage now where you just need to get a mock-up done, to test feasibility. Until you've done that, commit no further than you have to! I bet most of us on here have got parts, painted or polished them, or replaced seals or bearings, then offered them up and found they won't fit after the work we did.

Loosen the engine bolts, and get the arm between the frame rails and the wheel on the end of it. You'll feel better for doing it, it's a nice visible bit of progress, even if you do only have to pull it down again later...
 

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Here's what I mean about parts not being proportional in reality, even if you can make it good in P'shop.

 

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Chemical X
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Luckily the swingarm i have is the one with the center shock, its the NC30 with the offset as far as im aware.

Ill try get the swingarm in tomorrow and check the chain, the chain is in bad condition so ill be buying a new one later on in the build. But thanks for the heads up. I wont be modding the frame or anything that i cannot undo until i have all the correct information.

See, the info you gave me on the tail is very helpful :) got to decide on a new tail now :p

I dont want a massive backend, minimal and small.
 

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Chemical X
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got some longer braided hoses today :) buying them in red when the bikes being sprayed though :)


Thought i would check the air filter today, maybe clean with some compressed air i bought... Better be some powerful air to blow rust off...



Ok the SSSA is around 1 inch too big, going to have to machine that down. comparison:


Pulled back the rubber today to find the most amazing thing ever! A broken clutch lever and snapped bolt that keeps it tight, so thats a new assembly + cable i need to buy.... Well atleast you can get them in red :)



Wanted to check my front sprocket? (sure theres a name for it like on a BMX etc? chain drive?) there was like 3 years worth of shit inside it.... I need to invest in a jetwasher, the degreaser isn't working! it's almost rock solid dirt.


 

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Dude :(

That's really a lot of material to want to chop of the swinging arm. I would question if it's possible / safe to do.

That chain is totally fucked, it's hanging right off the sprocket!

CBR clutch perches are easily available secondhand, and have a much better action due to a bigger pivot bolt.
 

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Chemical X
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yep got to see where and how i can get that much material off maybe could manage with shaving, the frame down slightly and maybe reinforcing on the outside + shave the swingarm down.

The chain isn't connected to a sprocket thats why it's hanging but im buying a new red chain once back end is on. Bought a new front sprocket though :)
 

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You may find the the single sided swingarm from the 400 Bros/Hawk thing is slightly narrower at the pivot than the arm you have, and would be easier to fit.
 

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Chemical X
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You may find the the single sided swingarm from the 400 Bros/Hawk thing is slightly narrower at the pivot than the arm you have, and would be easier to fit.
the measurement thread says thats bigger unless ive looked at the wrong model.

My SSSA is 225mm with the stocker maybe being 221mm.

So not much to shave off if i do it evenly on the swinger and frame.


Ive found a god swinger from the 400 Bros, its 224mm according the guy selling it. Just curious if you have any info on attaching this swinger?
 

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I know the Bros arm doesn't use any linkage on the rear shock, up to you if you want that or not. You'd need the bros shock and a new top mount probably.
 

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Chemical X
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hey all just a update: Ive been working alot and looking after my heavily pregnant girlfriend so the bike is on the backburner for now. But this is what ive finally managed to do!

Ive spent 3-4 hours trying to remove my engine... No joke the bolts are seized in.

Ive started sanding down the tank, which is full of rust :( but i was thinking about buying a nice new 2001+ model tank for a new seat to sit on.


I took the carbs, air filter box and wiring loom out to reach the engine.


This is the bolt that has thwarted my attempts to remove the engine... So i brought the saw out.


A nice pic of the seized rusty rear brake :) good job i dont need that!


The snapped off tach cable :(


The front end light damage that came with the bike.



The moment ive spent 4 hours+ working towards! Im smiling really hard atm :) means i can get the seized manifold bolts out and get the frame sorted for the SSSA.


In the hard process of removing the engine i snapped off a spark plug... I also broke my brake lever in the struggle! (Worth it!)


These are all pictures of how the SSA sits using the GS shock (which is too big by 110mm!)






Hope you all enjoyed this update, i sure did :) now onto fitting this damn swingarm and sorting the engine out.
 

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Chemical X
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88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
New update, The guy who was getting my seized manifold bolts out said he would no longer do them because the whole engine had bolts seized everywhere. So i went and spent £40 on some new longer, stronger and bigger tools!

After going to work on the engine with said tools here are my results:

Valve cover off! them bolts were way too tight, obviously not to torque.



Just a picture to remind me where they were when i removed the camshafts.



After the removal of the camshafts i started to remove the shims and followers, I placed them in seperate bags detailing the letters from where they came. I also kept the chain tight so it didn't bind or get lost in the nether of my engine.



Havent taken a picture of the header removed yet but it took a slight pry with the back of a hammer, i took care not to damage the fins on the engine. Ive bought all new o-rings for the bolts holding the header in.

Also to highjack my own thread, Does anyone know where i can buy different Engine emblems for the GS500? it's 88mm dia.
 
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