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I Like Naked Twins!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got around to purchasing some fatties. After some research on reinforcing top clamps I've decided to try an unconventional technique. I'm going to melt some aluminum and pour it into the voids between the webbing of my soon to be modified top clamp before drilling holes for my risers. If all goes to plan it should be very sturdy. Wish me luck.

Pipe Auto part Metal
 

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As you asked...good luck!

Have you done anything like this before?

I'm not trying to be negative nelly, but these things come to mind:

1) Will it stick? Seems like if it was not hot enough the cured metal would just pop out. I think it shrinks a bit as it cools, right? Assuming it was hot enough:

2) Will it instantly melt the cast triple clamp or warp it enough to render it useless?
 

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I Like Naked Twins!
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've thought of both of those things and couldn't find an answer, I have however found another top clamp for $30 on ebay :rock: so I do have a back up plan. I'll let you know in about two hours how it went with pics. Thanks!
 

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I Like Naked Twins!
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Phone dead. Sorry for the tease. Worked beautifully. Plenty pics tomorrow!!! Fookin beautiful!
 

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Wow, I was sure it would warp! Can't wait to see it.







Jon
 

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lɐʇuǝɯᴉɹǝdx&#4
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I'm guessing you cleaned the metal really well? Seems like if you did that, it wouldn't me much different from welding, in that you've got liguid metal against liguid. I wonder how much of the form you were pouring into it melted.

Or maybe the shape is such that there is a good mechanical lock, or its a brazing effect? I've seen that done with copper poured around stainless steel (for example).
 

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fuck your face
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I did the same with triple on my TLR
I used alumaweld or shit like that
what I ended up doing was taping and threading the holes and put bolt trough with lock nut on the bottom end
worked good
it was PITA but worked
 

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I Like Naked Twins!
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Metal
Top clamp as it looked right after I removed it from the bike.
Land vehicle Vehicle Motorcycle Motor vehicle Automotive tire
Here's how she sits as of now, redoing some wiring, etc.
Table Room Floor
Here's the melted aluminum after removing slag and cutting some pieces out to melt again for our pour.

Slag...
Steering wheel Iron Wheel Spoke Automotive wheel system
Some material and our set up (turkey frier, lmao,) ready to go to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Cap Headgear Beanie Knit cap
My bud, who helped make this possible, say cheese!

Revolver Metal
Starting to remove some bits.
Silversmith Artisan
Bud Brent in action.
Auto part Metal Exhaust manifold
Looking better.
Iron Gas Portable stove Metal Heat
Time to warm up the shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Auto part Metal
Poured it in and no one lost an eye. :party-smiley:
Metal Trigger
No warped clamp and a perfect negative.:rock:
Revolver Auto part Exhaust manifold
Second pour.
Auto part Automotive engine part
Purty...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Auto part Clamp Metal Connecting rod Steel
Some tracing before we trim. Not necessarily a must, could just grind a flat spot for the washer and nut, but what the hell.
Auto part Brass Metal
Cut.
Exhaust manifold Auto part Brass Metal
Smoothed a bit.
Metal Sculpture Art
Pilot hole.
Auto part Automotive wheel system Silversmith Wheel Metal
Into the drill press.
 

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I Like Naked Twins!
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Auto part
You may have noticed the discoloration of the clamp in a previous post, a side effect of over 1200° F molten metal being poured into it, lol. It was going to get cleaned up as it was, so no biggie.

My negatives turned out great, shrinkage was JUST enough to get them pried out after they cooled.
Auto part Fuel line Engine Pipe Automotive engine part
Add risers.
Auto part Vehicle Bicycle part Brake Exhaust manifold
And bars....
Auto part Bicycle fork Pipe Vehicle Bicycle part
Waiting on a couple bits in the mail before I can mount the bars, maybe a pic of them on the bike within the month if all goes as planned.
 
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