Custom Fighters - Custom Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum banner
21 - 40 of 218 Posts

·
Member
Joined
·
606 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Well, I spent an enjoyable evening in the garage :rock:

It's a tight fit, but I made a lot of progress tonight. I got the rear lower mount worked out. Just had to bore out the bolt hole in the motor a little, cause the water cooled frame had a bigger engine mount bolt.

I have one of the top, front mount plates mocked up and the other one should be the same. I am going to make the lower mount plates tomorrow, they will be easy. Then it is time to deal with the upper rear mounts. That will be the hardest part, but I have a plan. I do have to clearance the lower frame rails a little to clear some protrusions on the oil pan.

It is not a direct swap, but definitely doable. There is not much wasted space around the motor though. Nothing a grinder can't fix :yeah:

Sorry, no pics tonight, but I'll get some tomorrow.
 

·
Member
Joined
·
606 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Ok, so here are a few pics I snapped, the clearances are TIGHT, but, it fits!

You can see that the lower rear mount is the same spacing on the oil cooled and water cooled models. That is the spacer that held the oil cooled motor in the 90 frame. Perfect fit. I did have to bore out the mount on the motor and the hole in the spacer slightly to fit the bigger engine mount bolt from the water cooled frame. Also, notice how tight the engine is going to be to the swingarm. Anyone know what the tab on the motor is that I circled? I can see that it is a threaded hole, but it has no corresponding bolt on the upper case :confused: I think I am going to grind that down some to help clear the swing arm.


You can see some of the extra clearance I had to make on the lower frame rail. Nothing a big ball peen hammer can't take care of!


You can see the temporary front engine brackets I made. These are just aluminum plate, because it is easy to work with with my very limited fabrication tools (a couple hand drills, sawzall, dremel, and grinder). I need to make some small adjustments, then I will have steel brackets made up. I still don't know what cylinders those are...there are NO markings anywhere on them, not even a 1052 stamp, which would appear on a stock set, right? I did noticed that the head has a nice little bit of porting done to it.


The next 2 pics show how close the front frame rail is to the valve cover. The engine seems pretty rigid, even without the 4th mount, but is that too close? I am going to make a little bit more room by smoothing out the frame welds a little, but it is still going to be tight.


 

·
Member
Joined
·
606 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
The header was tight, I tried it before I had any of the mounts sorted. Then I moved the motor again and I meant to try the header again. But, I forgot too before I yanked the motor back out. Now I am doing valve lash before the motor goes back together and thus back into the frame. I think it will fit ok though.

Btw, the head on my 1052 has the shims for valve lash adjustment. So, it is a 90-91 head right? How do I tell if it is from a 750 or an 1100? Also, what are the advantages and disadvantages of the shimmed head?

Some of the stock mounts are al and some are steel. I am going to go with steel. What do you think of using stainless for eng mount bolts?

Thanks again for all of the help and support, this forum is tops!
 

·
Strassenkämpfer for life
Joined
·
1,813 Posts
looking good man, you do lot of progress in a short time
the motor clearance looks good to me, the stock motor doesn't have any more space around
how about the sprocket cover, will it clear the frame?

about the head, easiest is to pull the head and check for the valve diameters
you have pictures from the motor intakes/outtakes?
or check for the numbers on the intake bottom side, maybe we find something there that helps to identify the head

keep up the good work :rock:
 

·
GixxaBandit12
Joined
·
328 Posts
If it's a 1100 with shim adjusters, it would be an '89-92 1127cc motor. Stainless motor bolts will work fine, If you have a stainless nut on a stainless bolt be sure to use anti-seize or they will....seize that is!
The quickest, and easiest way I know of to tell an 1100 from a 750 is to count the cylinder fins. The 1100 has 14, the 750 has 13. If your cylinder block is aftermarket though, it may have an odd count.
 

·
Member
Joined
·
606 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
A stroker, eh? so you can;t use the shimmed head on a 1052 motor without using the long stroke cylinders? Would that be the cylinders from the 1127 or from a 750? What would that put the displacement at (without accounting for it maybe being bored out too).









These next two are pics of the thing on the back of the transmission housing that I think I can grind down some with no ill effects. Let me know if you think there would be a problem with this.


 

·
Build It Ride It Live It
Joined
·
10,684 Posts
1100 head is physicaly wider. Just looked up the part number made into your intake boot. That comes up 89-90 GSXR1100 only. But Those were rocker heads. You may have to pull that head so you can figure out what size it is. I just went through the Frankestien list and he doesn't go through 1052 stuff much at all.

Grinding the bolt hole off the back shouldn't be a big deal. Just make it flush with the upper case so you don't take anything away from the case itself.
 
21 - 40 of 218 Posts
Top