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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a suzuki rf400r a couple of days ago and want to make a helmet headlight mod to the bike, problem is I'm not sure I can handle the task of rewiring everything since it looks like a mess inside and with all the wires and stuff I'm not sure everything will fit in the helmet. Do you guys have some sort of advice ? I am a complete noob and have yet to get my motorbike license so I decided to use the time to work on the bike.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pwaca92wozw1lus/20130629_193559.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hg3u0gflscr2b8m/20130629_193611.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xift7ulxf89spia/20130630_145700.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/g9alvgdw4qr1bz3/20130629_182927.jpg

What I am also wondering is what to do with the speed guage and the rest. Is it easy to mount a digital one that has all the readings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I just need some basic advice- based on the pictures would it be really hard for me to organize the wires or is it a simple task? should I go for it? should I get someone to help me? (don't have anyone)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks dude im glad someone finally saw my call for help, i was starting to think im not good enough for this forum
 

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RIDE RED
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First off your link to what I imagine are pictures are not working for me. If you can post actual pictures we can get somewhere.

Second, I was a noob as well. We all were! Very few are born knowing how to work on this stuff. I went to school for it which I the only reason why I know how to read a wiring diagram and which is why I decided to tear open my entire harness to start deleting stuff. It was "funstrating".

Third, :cfrocks: and this site (from what I have gathered) is for everyone to learn, teach and show off.

Forth, If the wires dont fit in the helmet, cut them shorter! Review your wiring harness for the bike and the wiring harness for the headlight. Once you figure out what runs what (ie: High beam, low beam, ground etc...) put a small tab of masking tape on the wire to identify it quickly and to keep the confusion down. You dont need to chop into the entire harness. Just the part you are working on. Only expose what you need and do as little as you can at a time so you do not become overwhelmed in the mess of wires...

Fifth, If your bike came with a mechanical speed-o then running a digital will be more difficult. I have never done this but this is what I can imagine. You are going to need something to pick up the speed from off the tire. So a sensor and pick up plus wiring. Should be able to find you a gauge that includes a kit but its going to be expensive im sure.

Sixth, electrical is actually quite simple. What makes it difficult is lack of basic knowledge, the inability to see all of the wires at one time and the fact that you cant see electricty flow so you can tell if you are or are not getting power and why. Go to harbor freight or autozone and get two things 1: a test light. This will show you it you are getting power because the light turns on :) 2: a multimeter http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html This will show you if you are getting power and how much. It can also measure the amount of current loss through an ohm test. If it reads infinity, then there is no connection aka the wire you are testing is broken somewhere or a connector has come unplugged. Lots of fun stuff you can do with these testers. and for the price its ok if you break it. I own one of these $4 HFT multimeters and it works great! My test light I got from autozone it think and it cost me about $8. Also buy good connectors, learn to soldier (heat wire add soldier to wire, not: heat soldier and have it drip on wire...) if you dont mind spending the money to get an iron and if your not getting power its more than likely because you have a bad ground!!! Good luck keep us posted!
 

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Hack in a barn
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^^^

What he said...

And to add, get a service manual. It can be a factory or clymer or what ever but make sure it comes with a wiring diagram. My advise is do not fuck with the wiring until you have a wiring diagram to reference or to post pictures of on here. Save yourself and everyone else a big headache and pick one up. And as an added bonus it will probably answer the future questions you have about the bike!

It should be the first thing you purchase when you get a new to you bike... In my opinion of'course :)
 

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For inexpensive speedo look at sigma cycle speedos. They are made for bicycles but work up to 2 hundred mph. Attach a sensor to the fork and another to the wheel and punch in the wheel diameter. Acurate to 1/100th of a mile. And why not get a flashlight headlight deal for your helmet. Wires from bike to helmet don't work out to swell. They can be akward
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the advice it's just what I needed. I needed some wise words to keep me motivated. I downloaded a manual for a rf600r because the rf400r is not very common but I am almost certain its the exact same bike except more powerful. When you said "If your bike came with a mechanical speed-o then running a digital will be more difficult." How difficult do you mean? How much money do you think I would have to drop for one of them digital speedometers? I feel that the stock speedometer just makes the bike feel massive and i want to get rid of it. I'm really excited but also a bit scared because I don't want to fux something up.

I posted new links for the pictures.











 

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fatass needs corndogs
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If your speedo is all mechanical you can remove it from the guage cluster and put it into a homemade housing that is of your liking. You can delete the rest but I would try to find a way to keep your idiot lights and neutral light. I did the whole shebang by putting my speedo in a soupcan with a dim white backlight. Colored bulbs were the idiot lights. Lots of colors available in LED form but dont buy ebay crap if you ever swap to leds for anypurpose...they are cheap and weak. Buy from somewhere like superbrightleds.com so...I mimicked the 4 stock lights. Green for neutral, red for oil pressure, yellow for...overtemp? Blue for bright headlight. I even put in a purple wired into the blinks. Was way badass for being a bunch of shit in a soupcan...next bike im redoing it with a different can that has a label I can keep on...like maybe a fosters pint can.
 

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fatass needs corndogs
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Looks like you have a mechanical speedo...I googled rf400 speedo cable and got lots of them. If your mechanically inclinedmake a newer smaller housing. Its nearly free and its easy to do...and its totally reversible if you do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If your speedo is all mechanical you can remove it from the guage cluster and put it into a homemade housing that is of your liking. You can delete the rest but I would try to find a way to keep your idiot lights and neutral light. I did the whole shebang by putting my speedo in a soupcan with a dim white backlight. Colored bulbs were the idiot lights. Lots of colors available in LED form but dont buy ebay crap if you ever swap to leds for anypurpose...they are cheap and weak. Buy from somewhere like superbrightleds.com so...I mimicked the 4 stock lights. Green for neutral, red for oil pressure, yellow for...overtemp? Blue for bright headlight. I even put in a purple wired into the blinks. Was way badass for being a bunch of shit in a soupcan...next bike im redoing it with a different can that has a label I can keep on...like maybe a fosters pint can.
Wow dude never even thought of that, but I couldn't completely grasp everything you said. Do you have a thread here with what you did? The more I think about it the clearer it becomes in my mind but I will look at your advice tomorrow when I am sitting next to the bike and try to figure out how exactly I'll do it. Problem is though I never really took the front of the bike off because the screws that were keeping it in place were literally impossible to reach with a screwdriver. Got any tips on that. Here's a picture.
http://postimg.org/image/kv3oumart/
The screw is right behind the frame on both sides. i don't even know how they put it together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hello all here is a update...
I was shocked at how much electrical tape was used on the wires. I ended up having to cut the blinkers off and another three wires since i couldn't take the frame off. Decided to use the stock gauges instead of buying a digital replacement so now I'll need to find some sort of housing to put the guages in.
The problem I have now is that the headlight is fooking huge, so I don't know if I gotta take it apart or just try to stuff it in the helmet. There are still a couple of things that remain a mystery to me. Like how will I attach the helmet to the bike.

Oh yeah anyone know what this thing in the plastic baggy is?












 

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RIDE RED
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Could be a turn signal relay, ignition relay or CDI. Without being able to identify the colors of the wires and with a wiring diagram is all guessing... Get us that stuff and we can help you. Remember when dealing with these bike most of the wires are a solid color with a strip on them. For example : light blue wire with a red strip with on a wiring diagram the wire will be labeled : lb/r or something similar. Ensure to memorize and frequently double check that the wire you want is BL/r not bu/r or br/r...

If your not confused yet then your not paying attention :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Could be a turn signal relay, ignition relay or CDI. Without being able to identify the colors of the wires and with a wiring diagram is all guessing... Get us that stuff and we can help you. Remember when dealing with these bike most of the wires are a solid color with a strip on them. For example : light blue wire with a red strip with on a wiring diagram the wire will be labeled : lb/r or something similar. Ensure to memorize and frequently double check that the wire you want is BL/r not bu/r or br/r...

If your not confused yet then your not paying attention :D
Yeah you got me pretty confused, basically what I did when i cut a wire is tape a piece of paper to the end saying which wire it was connected to and i did the same to the other part of the cut wire (im not sure what i just wrote makes any sense). The thing is though, someone had already tinkered with the wires so a blue wire was taped to a black which was taped to something else so I don't think a wiring diagram would help too much but what ever I took apart I named it (with tape) so I won't get stuff confused later.
 

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RIDE RED
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Yeah you got me pretty confused, basically what I did when i cut a wire is tape a piece of paper to the end saying which wire it was connected to and i did the same to the other part of the cut wire (im not sure what i just wrote makes any sense). The thing is though, someone had already tinkered with the wires so a blue wire was taped to a black which was taped to something else so I don't think a wiring diagram would help too much but what ever I took apart I named it (with tape) so I won't get stuff confused later.
As long as you know how it goes back together then your good. There is no right or wrong when labeling something. Just needs to make sence to you! Even still, if there are some random colored wires floating around, a wiring diagram will allow you to figure out what color that wire is supposed to be and mark it as such for future referance.
 

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That is an interesting thread you have going there. I am at the same stage with my CBR600 - Trying to fit all the horrible bulk of wires under the tank instead bunched under the clocks where they are normally. My bike still has the original clocks and no fairing and it makes the front end look bulky so I am getting digital clocks for it so i'm trying to reduce the amount of wires for when the new clocks arrive.
 

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RIDE RED
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That is an interesting thread you have going there. I am at the same stage with my CBR600 - Trying to fit all the horrible bulk of wires under the tank instead bunched under the clocks where they are normally. My bike still has the original clocks and no fairing and it makes the front end look bulky so I am getting digital clocks for it so i'm trying to reduce the amount of wires for when the new clocks arrive.
Its a lot of work but worth it.
 
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