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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been toying with the idea of adding this system to my Suzuki
(as seen in the "Gentlemans Streeetfighter" Postings)

This would effectively negate the advantages of the faster 4 Cyl machines between the more challenging twisties where the punch of the big 'V' comes into it's own.

As this is purely performance related, I have started this thread to maybe bring this option to the notice of a wider range of riders who could be interested in an instant horsepower boosting conversion.

This system does NOT require a seperate fuelling map for the Power Commander, but with the dual system I had proposed in that thread, the machine was to be rendered effectively street legal.

Dilemma being: A secondary Power commander for R.W.Y.B. events
or Yeehaaa!!!! What The Hell!

You can check the system out here:
http://www.1tail.com/sa/p/Dry_Nitrous_Kit_For_Fuel_Injected_Motorcycles_(2_5_lb_Nitrous_Bottle).htm
BB
 

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the mad doctor
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you shouldn't need a separate fuel map for ANY dry setup on a fuel injected bike, as long as the nozzle is in the airbox, and not in the intake runners. i usually set up the power commander a lil on the rich side at the upper end just to be safe, but shouldn't need anything separate.

just make sure all your sensors that run your fuel injection system are in good shape, and be sure to aim the nozzle in a way that lets the sensors "see" the nitrous as quickly as possible. a dry setup will make the bike run VERY lean for just a split second until the sensors see what's going on and up the fuel to make up for it.

i've put many a dry setup on f.i. bikes, works great, just don't go too crazy on the amount of spray, as the stock fuel system can only handle so much before it just can't keep up any more.

if you want a slightly softer power hit, put the nozzle in BEFORE the air filter, so that the spray goes thru the air filter. just keeps the nitrous hit from being too hard. i usually set bikes up like that for customers that have no experience riding a nitrous equipped bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
skr00zloose said:
you shouldn't need a separate fuel map for ANY dry setup on a fuel injected bike, as long as the nozzle is in the airbox, and not in the intake runners. i usually set up the power commander a lil on the rich side at the upper end just to be safe, but shouldn't need anything separate.
just make sure all your sensors that run your fuel injection system are in good shape, and be sure to aim the nozzle in a way that lets the sensors "see" the nitrous as quickly as possible. a dry setup will make the bike run VERY lean for just a split second until the sensors see what's going on and up the fuel to make up for it.
i've put many a dry setup on f.i. bikes, works great, just don't go too crazy on the amount of spray, as the stock fuel system can only handle so much before it just can't keep up any more.
if you want a slightly softer power hit, put the nozzle in BEFORE the air filter, so that the spray goes thru the air filter. just keeps the nitrous hit from being too hard. i usually set bikes up like that for customers that have no experience riding a nitrous equipped bike.
Many thanks for that Steve! It's good to know sumbody out there on CF is around for help and advice on topics such as this.

I'd Like to add you to my Buddy list if thats ok. and should I need any more help along the way, I hope you won't mind me asking.

You're a star! BB
 

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the mad doctor
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not a problem at all man. i used to work at a shop that did nothing but high-horsepower motor builds. mostly drag racers, as that seems to be the big thing out this way, but power is power.

fell free to ask anything, even if it's something i couldn't answer, i could probably point you to someone that could.
 
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Abministrator
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skr00zloose said:
if you want a slightly softer power hit, put the nozzle in BEFORE the air filter, so that the spray goes thru the air filter. just keeps the nitrous hit from being too hard. i usually set bikes up like that for customers that have no experience riding a nitrous equipped bike.
That usually works out pretty well from what I hear. An added bonus, is that nitrous is wicked cold, which in turn also cools your intake air, increasing power even more. :party-smiley:
 

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The Soft Serve Enigma
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yuppers, Steve hit the nail on the head. I've never had the opportunity to help install any sort of wet system, only know what I've learned from talking to Ryan Schnitz while ordering stuff for customers when they bring in wishlists :D. Dry systems though, we've done a couple at the shop and I got to peek over the mechanics shoulder once in a while. Most of ours are for experienced guys so the nozzle was "post filter" if you will, but I completely understand what you're saying. That's a damn good idea!
 

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the mad doctor
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yup, a wet system is a MUCH better setup, but there's twice as much plumbing needed. but, if you're only going for a relatively small hp increase on a f.i. bike, then a dry is cheaper, easier, and works just fine.

if you're wanting some good info on the subject, this is a REALLY good book on it. goes into basic and more complex design and whatnot of forced induction and nitrous setups. good stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Tu...ef=sr_1_2/002-0606050-4610431?ie=UTF8&s=books
 

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the mad doctor
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can't say i've ever seen that. i have seen it sprayed on intercoolers to cool incoming air from a turbo setup though.
 

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Eff Tee Pee
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:cfrocks:
 

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skr00zloose said:
can't say i've ever seen that. i have seen it sprayed on intercoolers to cool incoming air from a turbo setup though.
I've seen that too... a while back.. I think it was Nitrous Express (maybe....) that did a car with intercooler, the brakes, the intake, as well as each cylinder being sprayed by nitrous, just to show all the possibilities. It was pretty insane... They did some testing on the brakes at night... without the nitrous spray, you could see the rotors burning red hot, but with the occassional nitrous spray, they never got red, and the lap times improved drastically. I'm curious to see how well it would work on a bike...
 

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Once you install the MPS dry kit, you'll never go back to N/A! You will be putting it on your wife's Tahoe before the end of the month! I installed the Cold Fusion Nitrous dry kit on my Buell and it was easy. No hassle tapping into the fuel side (like a wet kit). Just let the intake temp sensor do the work. If you have ever installed a wet kit and tried to tune it to perfection, then you will know what we mean when we say "it was easy". Tony Orts uses Cold Fusion products on his championship NMCA Xtreme Street car and loves it. They are cheaper, as well. $225 on eBay.
 

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8sec-z said:
Once you install the MPS dry kit, you'll never go back to N/A! You will be putting it on your wife's Tahoe before the end of the month! I installed the Cold Fusion Nitrous dry kit on my Buell and it was easy. No hassle tapping into the fuel side (like a wet kit). Just let the intake temp sensor do the work. If you have ever installed a wet kit and tried to tune it to perfection, then you will know what we mean when we say "it was easy". Tony Orts uses Cold Fusion products on his championship NMCA Xtreme Street car and loves it. They are cheaper, as well. $225 on eBay.

you didnt happen to document the install did you??

we'd love to see that.
 

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Damn, I figured someone might ask to see pics. I will post them as long as noone LAUGHS. I threw this kit on and a power commander in one night to race it the next night during test n tune at Muncie. It is my worst install to date. But I was in a time crunch. I just bolted the 1.25lb. bottle and bottle bracket to the pass. rear peg and mounted the solenoid to an existing hole where the old air filter housing use to bolt to under the tank and behind the throttle body kind of where your knee might rest. (I run a forcewinder now.) I stole the wire from the horn and then threw the horn away. I wired the main arming switch to the hijacked horn wire for power and from the arming switch I ran the power wire to the solenoid. I grounded the solenoid to a bolt that holds down the tank bracket. I ran my plastic nitrous supply line out of the solenoid to the front of the forcewinder intake. The front of the forcewinders have a 1/4" aluminum plate that the filter media mounts to. This plate is where I drilled a 1/4" hole for my nozzle to fit in. Mount the nozzle tight and install the nylon line to it. I "tried" to somewhat hide the wires and lines with automotive conduit and blck electrical tape. Now, just throw the main switch (under the tank-left side) and mash the throttle and hit the horn button. Hang on! The track was busy and I didn't use the juice but I tried the next day out on a vacant highway and it pulls well. I used a 20HP setup and relyed on the IAT sensor to adjust the fuel side. Also, they say to not go past 30HP unless you are on a dyno with an O2 sensor monitering the A/F ratio. Going past a 30HP hit might surpass the limits of your stock fuel system. Installing a power commander and adjusting the upper end rich will help you "insure" a decent tune. My damn power commander isn't responding to my laptop consistently and the buttons on it don't work. I have no warranty since they obsoleted them. My engine light has been on ever since, as well. I ran a 12.4 despite the engine light being on and my first time on two wheels at the strip. I was hoping to run mid 11's on spray.
Brad
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey Guys I'm really enjoying the great input to this thread, many thanx and I hope it expands as more fighta dudes out there see the fun that can be had with an instant hit of 20 horses to light up a run.

As a noted crazy bastrd in other CS postings I really should add a Gvt. mental health warning to anything I write on most subjects, and here for the serious party animals out there I will say that the next para is:
J-U-S-T A J-O-K-E O.K.

Nitrous oxide is also a dissociative (Laughing Gas) that can cause analgesia, euphoria, dizziness, flanging of sound, and in some cases, slight hallucinations and a mild aphrodisiac effect.
Wow!



So I figure if I put a tee joint in the output line I can link it to my lid with a quick release coupling. Hmmmmm wonder what jet size I need to augment my adrenaline rush without runnin too lean????

Keep on Rockn guys...And again Thank you BB
 

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LOL!
Sounds like you might be running lean already!
My opinion? A two stage setup would be perfect for you. Turn on the first stage in the staging lanes with a 50 HP hit to your helmet and turn on the second stage for a 30HP hit in mid 2nd gear. Top that off with a hottie riding on your tank facing you doing naughty things....
just my two cents...or dreams...
Brad
 

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Eff Tee Pee
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8sec-z said:
LOL!
Sounds like you might be running lean already!
My opinion? A two stage setup would be perfect for you. Turn on the first stage in the staging lanes with a 50 HP hit to your helmet and turn on the second stage for a 30HP hit in mid 2nd gear. Top that off with a hottie riding on your tank facing you doing naughty things....
just my two cents...or dreams...
Brad

now THAT is a TRICK setup! :LolLolLolLol:

:ttiwwop: hahahah
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
929_adam said:
now THAT is a TRICK setup! :LolLolLolLol:

:ttiwwop: hahahah


8sec-z said:
LOL!
Sounds like you might be running lean already!
My opinion? A two stage setup would be perfect for you. Turn on the first stage in the staging lanes with a 50 HP hit to your helmet and turn on the second stage for a 30HP hit in mid 2nd gear. Top that off with a hottie riding on your tank facing you doing naughty things....
just my two cents...or dreams...
Brad
Y'r My Kinda Guys LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey spyder! Don't do the 50 horse helmet shot man!



Too Much Residual Ice on the Venturies :LolLolLolLol:
 
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