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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im not getting a spark....


Things that have changed since last time running:
1. Powdercoated frame
2. Sprayed engine black
3. Carbs may have gotten gummed up from not winterizing.

Lights turn on, signals work,....while I had it apart I decided to clean the carbs. I took out the main jet, needle jet and bowls. I did not touch the pilot screw. I sprayed them with CRC carb cleaner and used compressed air to dry blow through them.

The rest of the rack, I sprayed down with CRC cleaner thoroughly in every nook and cranny. Then I carefully dried it with compressed air. Made sure not to blow any parts off.

I mean, maybe it wont start because its still dirty inside carbs... but I doubt it. It looked pretty clean upon initial inspection.


Anyways, to check spark I pulled out spark plug #1 and attached it to the sparkplug cable, and cranked the motor with it near the engine block. I saw no spark. Also tried it with screw driver inside cable still nothing.

Could this be a ground issue? As far as I know the only cables that attach to the motor are the starter cable to the starter... and the negative battery cable to the backside of the engine, held by a bolt. I made sure those were not covered in paint.

any ideas?

not sure how to embed it on the site. Here is a link. Nothing informative, but just wanted to share what its doing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyskfVv7FZw&feature=youtu.be
 

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I would suspect there is a ground you are missing on the frame somewhere that is not making contact because of the powder coat.

"to check spark I pulled out spark plug #1 and attached it to the sparkplug cable, and cranked the motor with it near the engine block."

When you are checking for spark, the plug should be inserted into the plug wire boot. The threaded portion of the plug should be touching a bare metal portion of the engine or frame when you crank to look for spark. You say it is near the engine block. It must be touching a ground in order to spark. Just want to make sure you do in fact not have spark.
 

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Spray a little wd40 down her throats and hit the button... If it fires off you got spark. Obviously starting fluid works too, but wd will work just fine and most everyone has some on hand....
 

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Is my bike ok?
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The CDI doesn't really work that way. I mean, it DOES feed the coil, but it has to be triggered to dump the voltage in to the coils. A poor ground can interfere with this trigger. Did you have your ignition plate off the motor lately? Too much air gap at the ignition trigger can cause the issue, too.

But checking for ground is the easy thing to verify first. Just run a jumper from a clean engine bolt straight to the -terminal and see if it clears up. If not, then dig deeper.
 

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ground you coils right to a common ground. then from that go directly to the battery.

a bad ground will still give you spark out of the motor.. but not well enough to start/run.

the motor turns over well enough so the motor seems to be grounded well enough.
 

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Spray a little wd40 down her throats and hit the button... If it fires off you got spark. Obviously starting fluid works too, but wd will work just fine and most everyone has some on hand....
I use brake cleaner
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
alright, so I said fuck it and let a local shop take it.

They were the ones who ran all tests and etc and said the only thing unable to be tested was the CDI. They told me everything else checked out okay. Checked all wire continuity- okay. Coils- okay.

Well, they got a CDI, and it was faulty. So they got another one that they KNOW works.... and.....NOTHING.

They called me and said, listen.... "WE WILL GET IT RUNNING, but we checked EVERYTHING. At this point we are going to start replacing shit. So either take it and we don't charge , or let us play a bit with it. We will charge you a fair price, but I honestly cant tell you EXACTLY why its not sparking"


All the other shops are booked, and their customer service was so great (also their rep) that I decided to let them keep it a little longer.


I did suddenly remember something, though.

When I replaced signal generator gasket, I noticed a cracked magnet.

I replaced the magnet with one identical from a GSXR. I mean, why not? its just a magnet, but it was HAIR thicker. Maybe thats what it is..... i feel bad. I could've mentioned that before lol


picture i took on my phone so you can see how she sits atm
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Magnets have poles. The whole north and south thing. It's possible the "wrong" magnet you used had the opposite polarity so can't trigger a pulse.

If definitely give it a try
I'm sure they were gonna just replace the whole damn thing- but its hard to find used.

Im going to have them fuck with the magnet first, you could very well be right.

physically, they look almost the same. the new one is literally a HAIR thicker.
 

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Is my bike ok?
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Well, it should be very simple to check. Unless the trigger is a completely different design than what I think is.

Whatever is rotating past that magnet, or whatever that magnet is rotating past, is just a magnetic switch. A simple continuity test will tell you if the switch is closing when it sees the magnet or not.

If no meter is available, the trigger should have two wires. Put 12v to one wire, then run the other wire to ground through a test light. Test lights are invaluable.

Good luck buddy. Hope you get it figured out soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was able to find one on ebay, which has been RARE... ive been looking for this signal generator for a while.

We got spark.

I owe the shop like $350 though.. :'(

1. adjusted clutch cable
2. adjusted throttle cables
3. reset the pilot screws on carbs I screwed with
4. all the trial and error and signal generator bs
5. fixed oil leak
6. Installed chain
7. not sure what else they did


whatever- each year this bike costs liek 300-400 in repairs because I don't winterize and dick with it

I hope this is the last time.
 
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