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Discussion Starter #1
I will start off by saying that this is intended to be quite a long build as it gives me and my old man something to do in terms of a hobby. Having read lots of other projects I thought I might document mine also.

I have built a Moto Guzzi V50 racer previously and almost finished a restoration of a 1990 ZXR750...the latter has a frustrating fuelling issue that I will be getting a professional to look. In the meantime the Bandit build has started.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So this is what I started with...rather than purchase a complete bike and then spend months and months shifting all the bits I don't need, I have decided to purchase the bits I need as I go along...pretty sure I might regret that course of action in the end, but hey ho.

I do hope that I can sculpt the frame in such a way as to remove its ugliness and give i a new subframe also.





After purchasing the frame of an ugly Mk2 Bandit 1200, next on the list was a swingarm and rear wheel. I am attempting to build sections of the bike and then gracefully fit them all seamlessly together. Hmm...

Still needs upper and lower stem bearing cups removing which have thwarted all attempts so far...





After buying a B12 swingarm I decided to get an RF900 swingarm in order to delete the torque arm.



I initially thought about polishing it but decided that it might be too much for what I want to acheive asthetically and it's a lot of bloody work. Simoniz Tough Gloss Black paint was the way forward with polished chain adjusters and rear caliper hanger. New bearings were fitted in the swingarm also.

Is there another use for this thing in the garden??






It's cleaned up a little...









I should add that I have no metal working skills such as welding or fabrication, although I am hoping with this project I will give both a stab. I also have no special tools, just usual home garage stuff. See how it all pans out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The current piece being worked upon is the rear wheel. It has good bearings and the disc is barely used at almost 5mm thickness and the sprocket also seems fine, no hooks or chunks missing...will probably replace it when I get a chain still though.

The plan with the wheel is to use the same Simoniz Tough Gloss Black apart from around the rim which I plan to polish. As I want to reduce weight as part of this project I have ordered Titanium disc bolts and sprocket nuts.

Someone's keen to check out the interloper in his garden!




I am also planning to do a front end swap with what I have left over from my ZXR build...so I have a set of 1990 ZXR forks which are about 45mm shorter than the original B12 forks. But as I am trying to do this build as cheap as possible as well, I am determined to use the ZXR forks. I have started by chopping the ZXR stem off flush with the ZXR bottom yoke in order to have the B12 stem pressed into it. I am grateful to Yantosh who has agreed to help me with boring the bottom yoke, pressing in the stem, welding it up and getting the ZXR top yoke to sit right on the B12 stem probably with a small top hat sleeve. I have not had any joy with small machine shops in my area so pleased to have someone of Yan's calibre adding to my build.



I came across some recipe on the internet to remove anodising at home which I did with these ZXR forks in order that I can experiment with paint.






I have sanded down the production marks on the yokes and will get them to a nice polish when they are all together.

So that's where I am at the minute, sorting the wheel first.
 

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Just as a thought... You'd probably save money and weight by getting a later gsx-r rear wheel instead of an OEM wheel and titanium fasteners.

Should be interesting building from individual parts! But get ready to be "nickle and dimed" on all the brackets, doodads and whatnots, plus if it doesn't start first go, you'll never know which of the bits might be wrong. Keep eyes out for a running crashed bike that would have needed reframing anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Might keep an eye out for a race rep wheel, although keeping costs down with what i had or what came to me is probably a bigger consideration than shaving a few grammes off here and there.

Both previous bikes had donors and that worked out well...so just for the hell of it I thought i would see how difficult it is to string a bike together from parts. this will be fine of course for the mechanical bits like suspension and wheels in terms of being able to see if they work or not, but you're right with regards to an engine. however if i see a reasonably price running donor i might still jump on it.

I am going to be making my own loom...that will be a new skill to learn. So in some respects as long as i get an engine that runs and can work a loom okay, we should be gravy. That's the plan...and I am sure over the next however long it takes to get it all together it won't be plain sailing. Watch this space as there might be an unfinished project for sale in a year!
 

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the bearing cups, get a big fuck off spanner and a helper, hook the open end of the spanner under the cup and brace against the headstock, then get your helper to sit a punch, tube, length of bar on the spanner through the stem hole and twat it with a big hammer. They'll come out
 

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Are you running the front ZXR wheel with the forks? If so, take a look at sticking a newer Bandit 1250 ass end on it to match the angled spokes.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cheers for the hints with the cup issue...i will try the big spanner approach...have just the tools for the job I reckon.

Will look into a 1250 rear wheel as i intend to use a ZXR front wheel. Anyone know of the weight differences between a standard 1200 wheel and those of a 1250 or gixxers?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Reminded myself this is a budget build and not to go hunting for other wheels etc...so set about mine with grit and polishing mops and am quite happy how the rim turned out and the tough gloss black paint. Polished the hub carrier too and cleaned up the sprocket and disc that came with the wheel as they are in good order as are the bearings.
Thought i might as well refurbish the rear brake caliper which was spotless even though tje banjo was clogged with rust...no wonder hydraulic pressure didnt free the pistons...compressed air did though!
Rear master cylinder rebuild kit and new pads with a black braided hose and black fittings to 'hide' it along the swingarm ordered today


Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 

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mine was also a budget build as i was un employed and bored at the time.. good luck to you and your budget sir.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
absolutely not going to follow the money rabbit down his hole! using some left over bits and picking up the odd part here and there I am hoping to get below £2k...the engine is goingto be a good £600 so I may struggle, but I am going to attempt welding for the first time with plenty of practice before destroying the frame, all the paint as well as some fabrication of footrest hangers etc out of billet...with drills, files etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Other than being second mate to my bathroom tiling wife today, I managed to clean a few bits up and loosely fit some others.
The wheel and swingarm will be married as soon as some other little bits arrive. The swingarm is a RF900 R/S model which I picked due to the torque arm delete. The wheel is Bandit 1200. Somehow I have ended up with a number of rear wheel axles and swingarm pivots. The Bandit rear axle is no good as the bolt end is designed to be held in place in the swingarm so I can only use the RF900 axle, which is fine and what I want to do. However, as far as I am aware the RF didn't have a castelated nut, whereas the Bandit did. So is it only going to be the right torque and a good dose of threadlocker that is going to keep the axle nut from flying off?

Not sure what this drill attachment is made from but it's blood brilliant and getting crud off metal and bringing about a nice shine...any ideas? It doesn't wear either.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
the rf nut is a locking nut... same nut lock design should be on your front sprocket too.
As in a Nyloc nut? Is that going to be safer than using threadlock? Oh, I don't have a front sprocket...I have nothing but a wheel, swinger assembly and a wheel...so far at least.
 

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hooligan quads
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Not sure what this drill attachment is made from but it's blood brilliant and getting crud off metal and bringing about a nice shine...any ideas? It doesn't wear either.
its a paint removel pad, great for cleaning up metal
 

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Similar to a nyloc, but an all-metal design. Good for areas that see high heat. Just look at it and you'll see how it works.

Do not put threadlocker on your axle/axle nut. A light layer of antiseize is appropriate here instead.

If you're really worried about the nut backing off, drill the axle above the nut for a cotter pin. Without a castelated nut the nut will still be able to loosen up a bit, but it won't be able to come all the way off.

If you're really REALLY worried about it, just go get a fuckin castelated nut and be done with it. There's nothing special about the application, it's just a normal fastener, find the thread spec and google search for "lengthXpitch castle nut."
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for your advice...not seen much other than Nyloc when googling "axle locking nut"...if you have a link to what I should be looking at that would be good :) Otherwise I will drill the axle and get a castelated nut. Cheers.
 
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