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get it on its wheels, put the tank on and place the seat unit where it needs to be, that'll give you a better idea when making subframe , and where mounts need to be
 

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Discussion Starter · #203 ·
Wishing i hadn't painted the tank now...should have waited until mock up was complete. Doh!
I shall just have to be careful with it though it might have to wait a while due to a torn medial meniscus in my knee limiting moving about for fuck's sake.
And the bloody bike lift didn't turn up today...Monday they say...fucking brilliant.

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Discussion Starter · #206 ·
Replacement bike lift arrived and working as it should...knee still fucked but could be worse.
Forks and front wheel in next. Need to do more sanding on forks as the slightly ribbed texture can be seen in places. Then they are gonna be polished but not highly so.
Then i can see if i cant mock up what the subby will look like. I have a better idea on how to do that now by purchasing tubes with different degree bends in them to find the right one.


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Discussion Starter · #208 ·
Thats the next bit. now it's on its wheels and settled on the suspension i am going to try and work out what angle the seat needs to be at.

Very rough mock up today looked right but will have a better idea when i straddle it. Ordered some renthal medium superbike bars. Will be able to get an idea as to the height risers i will need and get them ordered. Not sure how easy that will be without something proper to sit on...any suggestions welcomed cos all i can see is me floating in mid air!

Will also know if my peg mounts are in a good position or not.


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Discussion Starter · #210 ·
Aye it's taking shape. Been searching in the web for pre bent mild steel tubing...wish i had saved the bloody page now as i found a supplier who had various degree bends in lengths of tube. Anyone know of such a place please feel free to end my internet suffering...i just want to try different angles out.

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Or buy a pipe bender, depending on how much you spend you can get a good one for 20-25mm tube or a cheeper hand one and mock something up in smaller pipe. You can then bend it to what you want, then get some proper pipe/tube to the angles you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #212 ·
I was looking at some pipe benders last night and thinking that might be the way forward...i shall check what size tube i need and see if i can get a cheap one.

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Just be careful as a pipe and tube do not have the same OD for a given nominal size. That means the dies on a pipe bender are going to have a larger ID than those for a tubing bender. If you’re only doing small bends it may not matter but for sharper bends tubing may kink.

Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #214 ·
Just be careful as a pipe and tube do not have the same OD for a given nominal size. That means the dies on a pipe bender are going to have a larger ID than those for a tubing bender. If you’re only doing small bends it may not matter but for sharper bends tubing may kink.

Later, Doug
Think Yan explained that to me some time back...good to be reminded before i go and buy one...however if i can find this place that sold pre bent tubes in mild steel for a short-ish length it would save a few quid. There's plenty selling stainless, mostly for exhausts but i need mild. It did cross my mind to see if there’s anything made from carbon fibre out there...probably a good reason why i ain't seen no carbon subframes on the net!

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Discussion Starter · #216 ·
So i have done a little mocking up for seat angles etc. Thinking top rail is only like 10° and the bottom 25°...this might change of course when I try it for size.
Not sure yet how long the tubes need to be as I don't necessarily need the subframe right to the very edge of the back of the seat. That will depend upon the location of the rear light and winkers.
Any comments as to any pitfalls i may not be seeing appreciated.


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Discussion Starter · #217 ·
So in my quest to find suitable bent tube someone came up with what they can offer.

My measurements for the top rail is 38mm OD, 3mm wall thickness and the bottom rails are 31.5mm OD, 2mm wall thickness.

The supplier is offering 38.1mm OD, 2.64mm wall thickness and 31.75mm OD, 2.03mm wall thickness all CDS which they say is stronger than mild steel.

Before i go ahead i would appreciate your advice, views, knowledge etc if the smaller wall thickness, specifically, will be an issue.

Thanks guys.



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My measurements for the top rail is 38mm OD, 3mm wall thickness and the bottom rails are 31.5mm OD, 2mm wall thickness.

The supplier is offering 38.1mm OD, 2.64mm wall thickness and 31.75mm OD, 2.03mm wall thickness all CDS which they say is stronger than mild steel.
I looked up automotive racing roll cages from a big racing product store here in the US (Summit Racing). Most of the cages they sell are 1.625” (41.3mm) x 0.120” (3mm) in DOM mild steel.

What your supplier is offering for wall thickness is overkill for a subframe. 0.65-0.83” (1.65-2.1mm) would be fine IMO. Maybe Yantosh can chime in?

Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #219 ·
You are right I am sure Doug...have gone ahead as the top rails are 3mm so just continuing with what Suzuki built it with. But...it does seem to be chunky stuff.

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weld bungs into frame with threaded holes, use rose joints to attach the subframe to. Send me 4 bits of tube if you want, i will bend them , few weeks and my shed should be empty enough for work
 
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