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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been painting my tank and tail on my SV. This is my first paint job ever. All has gone good until I wet sanded it today. Everything looks good except for one section on the top of the tail. There are a bunch of cracks in the paint or clearcoat. They are very tiny and I didn't even know they were there until I wet sanded. I sprayed several light coats and didnt have any orange peel. I didnt have to sand much to get what you see. What did I do wrong and how can I fix it? It is a black metallic.




This is after my final wet sand. I have not polished it yet. Here is the tank.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It is rattlecan. I waited about 20 min between coats. 3 coats of color and 3 clear. All of it looks great except that one spot. The cracks are not deep. It looks like if I sand the clear down it will level out. I may see if i can find some 2 part clear locally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It is rustoleum. I know it is not the best but I didn't want to spend a lot on paint since it was my first time. It is not 2 part clear. If I can resolve the issue I will get some. What grit should I use to get the 2 part to adhere?
 

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You sold yourself short. A 1 part clear just won't last. Gas will eat it fast and it will have no wear resistance.

You could try to sand with 600 grit and use 2 part clear over it. I have no idea of it will turn out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The cracks were deeper than I thought. I sanded till they were gone and only have primer left. I knew about the paint not being up to par. I just wanted to see if could do it myself before I put too much into it. So I am going to respray this section and get some 2 part clear. Thanks
 

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Feckin Eejit!
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As paint dries/cures it out-gasses and shrinks

My neighbor will only paint in the summer so he can roll the project out into the hot summer sun to bake it. When I asked "waiting for it to dry?" his response was "It's already mostly, I just have to give it a few hours in the sun to shrink"
 

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hate us cuz they ainus
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This^ and Metallics are real picky when it comes to surface prep. The problem is the flake flows out while the paint is curing so any minor scratch or imperfection traps the flake. Even 320/400 grit paper is too much for some silvers and golds.
 

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If you are spraying 2k paint, do yourself a favor and buy a quality activated charcoal respirator. One time spraying with the incorrect respirator can fuck a person up for life. Many have painted with minimal or poor protection and gotten away with it but it usually catches up with them later in life. Usually resulting in the big c word C A N C E R.

And remember the charcoal filters have a limited life once you open the package. If it goes past the life once you open it the filters aren't any good anymore and you have to replace them. You may think you are but its a false sense of protection because the bad stuff that is in the paint isn't stopped at the filter anymore.

Respirators with replaceable filters cost a little more but can save you some money if you plan on spraying more than one time. I've bought throw away ones and mark them when the package is opened. Even though they are past the safe open time you can still use them for grinding and other things like that. And remember putting the mask back in the zip lock bag doesn't prolong the open date.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you for the respirator information. I always wear a respirator but I didn't know about the charcoal. My father and grandfather both died from pulmonary fibrosis and it is hereditary so chances are I have it too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What is the coverage like on the 2k? Will 2 cans be enough? I have to spray the tank, tail, front fender and a small cowl.
 

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What is the coverage like on the 2k? Will 2 cans be enough? I have to spray the tank, tail, front fender and a small cowl.
I used 2 and didn't have a fly screen. I wish I had gone thicker so I'd say 3 cans minimum.
 

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I had that exact same issue happen to me once before using rustoleum paint. It turns out that rustoleum is unforgiving when it comes to the respray window and/or laying another kind of paint over top of it.

If you don't mind waiting a few weeks, you could probably sand it out after everything is done reacting and be fine laying new paint over it. I wasn't so lucky and had to take a few big sections of a bike I was painting down to bare metal and start over. It still did the same thing in a few areas.
 

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If you had cracks down to primer..the primer wasn't dry and gassed out through the paint and clear...ive got "veins" on my tailgate for the same reason
 
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