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Grateful Newb
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316 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sold the '99 Tiller I bought for my wife (too big) and got her a '97 RF900RV. When I got it, I could BARELY get it to shift into second. The thing had been sitting outside unused for three f'n years. So here is what I HAVE done.
Clutch line/fluid, both brakes lines/fluid, oil/filter, air filter, carb bowls/shims/injectors, etc., coolant flush and fill, borrowed a D&D slipon from my build and did some plastic chemical welding where broken. Gonna do the plugs next and see if I can use my buddy's carb balancer.

Now that the bike runs and shifts like brand new, I only have two complaints. When sitting at a light, there is a slight wobble from side to side. The other thing is that first is slipping or something. When I get on it, it feels like I am spinning my tires here and there, but I am not losing traction. It mainly happens at about 3k-6k. Is it a friction plate thing? I don't know anything about that stuff, 'cept I don't like being beat by every sti that pulls up next to me.

Should I try to drain out some of the oil and use that tranny slipstop stuff? I have no clue what I am supposed to do at this point. I wish I could have just paid to have my wife's legs stretched a couple inches to keep the Tiller.
 

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Rable Rable Rable
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8,319 Posts
Clutch time bro, at the very least the springs are bad, likely the friction plates too. Cheap fix though.
 

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Grateful Newb
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316 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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GixxaBandit12
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328 Posts
The clutches on these are pretty bullet proof. You may just need washers under the springs, or perhaps the clutch slave is holding it open, is there some play in the lever? Make sure it doesn't have synthetic oil. Despite what the oil company's say every time I have tried synthetic oil in a wet clutch, I had clutch slip.
 

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Grateful Newb
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316 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am running standard SAE 10W40. There isn't any play in the lever and it has new fluid in the line. It doesn't do it in any other gear. 2nd through 5th run like a raped ape. I think Ruff may have it with the plates and springs. The more I read the shop manual, the closer that sounds.

BTW...
www.repairmanualclub.com I found a manual for this bike and my Zed. The one for the ZZR1200 has been pretty elusive, but it was on here in pdf.
 

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Grateful Newb
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316 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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Rable Rable Rable
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8,319 Posts
Sucks. Thing only has 9000 miles on it. I gotta remove the whole block and everything, huh?

No, the clutch basket is pretty easy to get to on every bike I've ever worked on. I'd check out ebay for friction plates, kits for my bike range from $50 (Vesrah cork) to $100 (EBC kevlar).
 

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Grateful Newb
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316 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wobble is kinda slow. You know how it is when a passenger won't sit still? It feels like I am just BARELY moving side to side. May just be that model of bike.

So EBC is the way to go? I drained out some oil and tossed in about 12oz of Lucas Oil Slipstop to buy me some time with the wife. It doesn't slip now, but it just masked the problem. I figured with the low miles it was just the springs or something, but if I am doing this, I might as well do it all, right?

Also - obviously, I am a newb - what do they mean by "slave" clutch? Is it worth giving the chain a kerosene bath and then soaking in 10w40 like the manual says? What do I need to used for fork oil?

Since you guys are so helpful. BTW... rep.
 

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fighter'n the good fight
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1,092 Posts
Wobble is kinda slow. You know how it is when a passenger won't sit still? It feels like I am just BARELY moving side to side. May just be that model of bike.
its probably just the gas. a tiller wont do that because of the big indent is has in the bottom of the tank for the airbox but a tank with a flat bottom will.
 

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Rable Rable Rable
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I don't know of any bad clutch kits, but EBC makes a nice one. Their roadrace kit has springs and kevlar plates for about $110.
 

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Grateful Newb
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316 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Gonna do the plugs, drain the flush and fill the rad, set sag and chain and order up a kit then. There goes the last of my money before I get work. DOH! At least I'll be burnin it up.

BTW... What is a good site to post a clip of this thing? It sounds super sick with the can from my 1200.:rock:
 

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GixxaBandit12
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328 Posts
It makes no sense that it slips in first, but not the others gears. It should get worse in each gear. If it slips a bit in first, it will usually be really bad in fifth. I suppose this is possible, but it makes me curious.
 

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Grateful Newb
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316 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah. I don't get it, really. All the other gears have a nice hard pull, but first's RPMS climb up nice and even, but the pull has little split second stalls like when you lose traction... but I ain't losin traction. The weird part is that the Lucas Oil tranny junk helped eliminate most of it. 2nd, 3rd, 4th all run perfect and pull hard and smooth. I really dunno about 5th. I haven't been that fast yet. Stayed under a hundred so far.
 

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GURU
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8,827 Posts
you said standard 10w40? you mean 10w40 motorcycle oil? there is a difference. I have run full synthetic and semi synthetic motorcycle rated oils without issue. But if you run car oils(standard petroleum products or synthetics) they are not rated for your tranny, wet clutch etc. The reason your clutch is probably slipping in 1st and not another gear is because you sit there with the clutch lever in allowing the plates to spread for x amount of time so when you go to take off there is some residual fluid between the plates that lets it slip until it regains itself. in other gears you only grab the clutch for a split second if at all to shift.


if you did put car oil in there drain it out and switch to some motorcycle grade oil. If you still have trouble out of it you may have glazed over the friction plates and use should help clear it up.

Suzuki clutches are very durable. Ive abused clutches for thousands of miles of clutch drops and slipping the clutch and they come out looking new. But the oil you run and how often it gets changed can have a big effect.
 

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Kilted Rider
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486 Posts
you said standard 10w40? you mean 10w40 motorcycle oil? there is a difference. I have run full synthetic and semi synthetic motorcycle rated oils without issue. But if you run car oils(standard petroleum products or synthetics) they are not rated for your tranny, wet clutch etc. The reason your clutch is probably slipping in 1st and not another gear is because you sit there with the clutch lever in allowing the plates to spread for x amount of time so when you go to take off there is some residual fluid between the plates that lets it slip until it regains itself. in other gears you only grab the clutch for a split second if at all to shift.


if you did put car oil in there drain it out and switch to some motorcycle grade oil. If you still have trouble out of it you may have glazed over the friction plates and use should help clear it up.

Suzuki clutches are very durable. Ive abused clutches for thousands of miles of clutch drops and slipping the clutch and they come out looking new. But the oil you run and how often it gets changed can have a big effect.
I think thats why the Lucas is helping him...

you can use car oil in a bike....BUT you must watch the bottle for compatibility. On the API star on the back, you will see the weight and grade. on the bottom rocker on ALL oils from 0w20 up to 5w30 you will see energy conserving. what does that mean you may ask?

friction modifiers...which are VERY incompatible with wet clutches (clutches need friction...)

most 10w30 and some 10w40's are coming with it now.

the largest difference between SG/SH and the new SM oils is their levels of ZDDP and other antiwear additives. even though the oils are "supposedly" backward compatible.

Me, I run 15w40 Rotella. Highest amount of antiwear additives in a natural oil on the market and doesnt have any friction modifiers.
 

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Rable Rable Rable
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8,319 Posts
I don't like the feel of synthetics on my clutch, I just use reg bike/atv 4 stroke oil. Big twin oil in the summer for the extra heat. I've heard good things about Rotella, just prefer oil that was mfr'd for bikes.
 

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GURU
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8,827 Posts
I don't like the feel of synthetics on my clutch, I just use reg bike/atv 4 stroke oil. Big twin oil in the summer for the extra heat. I've heard good things about Rotella, just prefer oil that was mfr'd for bikes.
synthetics are not technically any "slicker" than a pure petroleum oil. The synthetic part helps with heat/breakdown also helps the oil from shearing under high rpms so you dont ruin bearings and has nothing to do with the slickness of the oil( thats based one the maker and what they put in it). The main reason i personally dont run full synthetic is because i change my oil at least every 2k and the 50/50 or even pure petroleum oils dont have any issues (for me) and the extra money of full synth is money down the drain(no i dont pour oil down the drain). If you feel comfortable changing your oil ever 6-10k in your bike rather than 2-3k go for synth. In a car i feel fine doing that but a bike with tranny and clutch sharing the same oil that lubes my cams/bearings just wont do it.

any difference in clutch feel could probably be attributed to manufacture additives rather than synth/petroleum. If i had a bike the revved past 11k id probably run synthetic. Once my turbo is up and running i will be putting full synthetic in it because of the extra heat from the turbo will cook the oil and break it down much faster.
 
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