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All star !!!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How hard is it?

Are USD's harder than RSU forks?

Any special tools involved?

Which parts get replaced?
 

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GURU
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4,412 Posts
People here will tell you it's easy you don't need any special tools. On my USD's you did.....I took them to a shop and paid $70 bucks labor to have them completely rebuilt and install my new springs,valves and oil. It was cheaper than buying the tool and taking up a lot of my time. Save yourself a headache.
 

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the only tool you should need is a fork seal seating tool (dont know if thas technical name) but you can just make one out of some pvc pipe real cheap and it will work the same
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the attachment and link guys. :rock:
 

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Thanks for the attachment and link guys. :rock:
That write-up is quite good - but is only for conventional forks (not USD). I haven't pulled apart USD forks before - but every mechanic I have spoken to says they're a P.I.T.A.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, so to bring this thread back on track...would one say that if I was able to rebuild GSXR motor and transmissions just from reading the manual, I should be able to do the forks myself too...with what ever tool I'll need to get?
 

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GURU
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Ok, so to bring this thread back on track...would one say that if I was able to rebuild GSXR motor and transmissions just from reading the manual, I should be able to do the forks myself too...with what ever tool I'll need to get?
Absolutely. If you can rebuild a motor....forks will be no problem. Personally, I would drop them off and save myself the agg.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Absolutely. If you can rebuild a motor....forks will be no problem. Personally, I would drop them off and save myself the agg.
After getting some higher than I wanna spend quote to have them upgraded...I am just gonna try myself. Like everything else in life, if you can do it yourself...it saves money.

Did you get my PM back about the bags?
 

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GURU
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yeah I did....I'll get back to you about them

I hear you about saving money. I'm all about it. I'm just voicing my opinion from past experience. I hope you have a better one than I did.
 

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British Bloke in Canada
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2,146 Posts
ive done USD and RWU and never had a problem, sometimes you get the bolt on the dampner rod stick, but I havnt had that problem, I think USD are usually Easier cause of the whole cartridge thing, I can get a set of fork seals done usually in about a hour, the thing to remember is what comes out has to go back in :)
the amount of oil is allso very important, I use a syringe and some clear plastic tubing
 

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All star !!!
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ive done USD and RWU and never had a problem, sometimes you get the bolt on the dampner rod stick, but I havnt had that problem, I think USD are usually Easier cause of the whole cartridge thing, I can get a set of fork seals done usually in about a hour, the thing to remember is what comes out has to go back in :)
the amount of oil is allso very important, I use a syringe and some clear plastic tubing
A man with experience....good..what special tools do I need and where to get the cheapest?
 

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British Bloke in Canada
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2,146 Posts
what bike is it you have doug, oh I see the Gixer, 600, I just did one of these last week the same year,
obviously remove your forks,
hold the forks in a vice, undo 8mm damper rod hex socket, on bottom of forks,
Pump forks to dump oil on to a bucket though bottom where you just removed bolt.
remove fork top 22mm wrench
now the whole inside for dampener, spring assembly will come out, theres a washer on the top that is lose try to keep the whole assembly together, if your not gonna change the spring etc

now remove rubber dust cover, and remove round circlip from under it, Pull chrome stantion from bottom of forks the seal should come free with it, clean interior of forks, I use brake cleaner.

at the bottom of the lower, there is aluminum valve thing clean it and drop it back in.

put new seal on to chrome stantion and slide the stantion back in the bottom of the forks, use a peice of two inch PVC tube and gently tap seal so you can reinsert circlip on top of seal, reinsert dust cover

Reinsert dampener, spring assembly, re bolt the 8mm hex socket at bottom
pull fork to full extention.
don't do up 22mm top yet, Measure the correct amount of fork oil in to a measuring jug 528ml in each leg,
NOTE:
(the trick is not to spill any oil) I use a large syringe and plastic tubing where you would normally attach the needle, pull the syringe plunger out....and use it as a funnel to get the oil in to the fork leg.
I usually just measure 500 and use the syringe for the last 28ml, bolt up top of forks...
Im writing this from memory so I dont think I missed anythin,
 

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British Bloke in Canada
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2,146 Posts
Allso I have a PDF of the suzuki Manual if you need it
 

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GURU
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4,412 Posts
what bike is it you have doug, oh I see the Gixer, 600, I just did one of these last week the same year,
obviously remove your forks,
hold the forks in a vice, undo 8mm damper rod hex socket, on bottom of forks,
Pump forks to dump oil on to a bucket though bottom where you just removed bolt.
remove fork top 22mm wrench
now the whole inside for dampener, spring assembly will come out, theres a washer on the top that is lose try to keep the whole assembly together, if your not gonna change the spring etc

now remove rubber dust cover, and remove round circlip from under it, Pull chrome stantion from bottom of forks the seal should come free with it, clean interior of forks, I use brake cleaner.

at the bottom of the lower, there is aluminum valve thing clean it and drop it back in.

put new seal on to chrome stantion and slide the stantion back in the bottom of the forks, use a peice of two inch PVC tube and gently tap seal so you can reinsert circlip on top of seal, reinsert dust cover

Reinsert dampener, spring assembly, re bolt the 8mm hex socket at bottom
pull fork to full extention.
don't do up 22mm top yet, Measure the correct amount of fork oil in to a measuring jug 528ml in each leg,
NOTE:
(the trick is not to spill any oil) I use a large syringe and plastic tubing where you would normally attach the needle, pull the syringe plunger out....and use it as a funnel to get the oil in to the fork leg.
I usually just measure 500 and use the syringe for the last 28ml, bolt up top of forks...
Im writing this from memory so I dont think I missed anythin,

^ That deserves to be sticky in the DIY. :knucks:
 

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All star !!!
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I really appreciate that great post Joe, but its for Gix 750 USD forks...2003 models.
 
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