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Commander Cool
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9,707 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've known since I bought the bike that the clutch plates were well overdue for a replacement.. And 10000kms later I'm gonna do it.
Now.. Do I just go the whole hog and get the plates and springs or can I just get away with new plates?.. The price difference between the two options is nothing less than horrific..
 

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Is my bike ok?
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15,025 Posts
Really, the difference is that much? I know on my CB 's the springs are only an extra $12. :D

Anyway, in the FSM for my bike there are specs for what the free length (uncompressed) of the springs should be. If they are shorter than spec (crushed) I replace them. Otherwise I rock on. Not sure where to find that info for a SV, but imagine there's a manual for your bike somewhere online.
 

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Oiler Boilereerer...er(s)
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1,562 Posts
What he said, if the springs meet spec, just reuse them.

Get a haynes or clymar manual off ebay or something, will give you all the specs, and a good walkthrough if you are unfamiliar with how it comes apart/goes together (more importantly lol!)
 

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Bitches love Fighters
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5,325 Posts
measure the fibers and then rough the steels up a bit.
 

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740 Posts
Generally the full aftermarket kits come with slightly stiffer than stock springs...EBC says theirs are 10% firmer than stock. A LOT of stock clutches slip right from the factory, somewhat by design to make the "driveability" a little smoother and easier. Not enough you'd really notice, until it doesn't slip anymore.

Typically you can re-use the steels and a full kit isn't needed. EBC sells the full kit, and then a kit without the steels for considerably less. If you see any blueing or discoloration, you might want to replace them, but this isn't real common unless the clutch was abused (i.e lots of burnouts, wheelies, lack of oil changes). Use a scotch brite pad just to just scuff them up a bit. If you really want to be sure measure the thickness with calipers and compare to the spec in the service manual, but I did a clutch on a bike with almost 60k miles and the steels were still in spec.

I've had mixed results with various aftermarket clutch kits, ranging from complete crap to perfectly fine. If the OEM price is hard to swallow, I'd suggest an EBC kit. I wouldn't gamble on other brands. El cheapo ebay clutches I've burnt out of quads in a weekend when the OEM lasted 10 years...in the end it costs more.
 

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Commander Cool
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9,707 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
EBC plates alone were about 35 but the steels and springs as well took it to over 120. I'm pretty sure the last guy did a lot of heavy acceleration but it's also got high kms so.. I dunno. Aftermarket doesn't bother me.
 

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740 Posts
I know EBC sells the springs separately. The set for my Z is like $15. Get just the fibers and a pack of springs, you should be fine.
 

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299 Posts
Get a good digital micrometer, measure your the teeth and thickness of the frictions and steels. Mic your springs and clutch basket teeth, look for wear on the gears/teeth of the inner clutch basket. I like to rough my frictions up a little before I put them back in with some dry 320 grit. Thats if the frictions are reusable though.

Get a service manual, it'll tell you the ranges of specs on EVERYTHING. What's the bike doing btw? Jerking from a slipping clutch?
 

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Commander Cool
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9,707 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nup. Clutch slips on takeoff when cold. I think I'm just gonna buy the whole lot, save myself the hassle.. Advertising it as having a new clutch as well as chain sprockets and brakes would make up a lot..
 

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Administrator
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50,498 Posts
Nup. Clutch slips on takeoff when cold. I think I'm just gonna buy the whole lot, save myself the hassle.. Advertising it as having a new clutch as well as chain sprockets and brakes would make up a lot..
:thumbsup:
 
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