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BikerfromtheBX
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Kawasaki zzr600 2006 with 14400 miles on it. I started hearing some engine clattering at higher rpms. Im assuming that it might need a valve adjustment now. My question is, is this a diffcult job to do. Im pretty good when it comes to fixing bikes but this will be my biggest job yet. Does anyone have any suggestions? Plus the dealership wants $500 for the job and i hate taking my bike in if i can do the job myself. Also i was in a pretty bad accident with the bike two months ago, i got hit from the back by a taxi cab but all it did was bend my subframe and some cosmectic damage. But can this hit cause this engine sound, and the sound only started about 2 weeks ago. Thanks for your help guys.
 

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Function IS Form
19 Z900, 88 Kat11
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17,432 Posts
The clattering can come from the top or bottom end of the motor. If it's the top end it can very well be your valve adjustment. If it's the bottom end it might be a more serious problem. It could also be a timing chain problem.

The valve adjustment isn't too hard. You'll need a feeler guage. Make sure you do -not- mix up the shims that you take out of the valves... keep them organized!

Spyder wrote a valve adjustment tutorial for all shim-under-bucket bikes... I'm assuming the ZZR600 is shim-under-bucket.
 

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BikerfromtheBX
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yup, it is a shim under bucket. Now, for the sound, im not exactly sure where its coming from, but it does sound like top end. But i also forgot to mention that sometimes i have a tough time getting into 3rd gear, could that be the problem. Thanks for your help.
 

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Function IS Form
19 Z900, 88 Kat11
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17,432 Posts
I doubt your transmission is the problem. There's no way I can tell you what the sound is caused by without listening to it.
 

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is not your fucking bro
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7,216 Posts
spider wrote up a good one. i did one last week on a 92 gixxer 6. remove valve cover remove crank pick up side cover. turn the crank over by hand until the cam lobe is 180 degrees away from the bucket get a piece of paper and write down all your measurements. i kept all mine around 18 thousanths gap.my spec was 10 to 20.

if the gap is to big then the cam has to go further to open that valve so your cam timing is off will have late fuel/air delivery if the exhaust is big then the exhaust valve will open late and your exhaust stroke is diminished and wont have adequate time to leave and it will mix with your new stroke. since old wont burn you will get a lean condition. and since your gap is big the cam can actually slap the bucket instead of glide across it and either wear the cam or the bucket out.

if the gap is to small then the valves will open early and thus close early so you wont get all your air/fuel to the cylinder and if the exhaust is to small you can start your exhaust stroke to early and lose your power stroke.

granted under normal wear since your dealing in thousanths this is not likely to happen. but if you mis adjust this and install the wrong shims this can definately happen.

so measure all your gaps if thier off write the gap down. then after your done. remove the cam chain tensioner and remove the cam hold down bridges and remove the cams. i used needle nose pliers to get the bucket out cus their slippery with oil on em. also as soon as i get my buckets up alittle i put something inder them in case the shim falls. the bucket has a small magnet under it but still just to be cautious. it would suck to have to dig for that little thing. the shim has a number on it in thousanths. add that number to your gap to your gap measurement. thats your contact measurement. subtract your needed 15 gap and thats the shim you want.

my local dealer swapped me out my old shims for different ones at no cost. install new shims put em back in. reinstall cam, i always use a engine paste on the lobes and journals so it doesnt start dry. line your cams and crank up by the book. then put your tensioner and new gasket in and valve cover and thats it.
 

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GURU
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1,797 Posts
i think its time for the CCT to replaced with an aftermarket style on my 636, starting to hear a ugly noise
 

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Function IS Form
19 Z900, 88 Kat11
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17,432 Posts
Cam Chain Tensioner is a big problem on a lot of bikes... older Busas, some R1s, some 900RRs... Maybe on the ZZR600? Does it have the 636 in it?
 

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Perpetual Project
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3,695 Posts
The thing that sucks about valve adjustments on the ZZR is the cams have to be removed to adjust them. Measuring is easy, adjusting is the pain.

I like my 250 for the same reason chandler likes his B12, screw type.
 

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BikerfromtheBX
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yea Candyman, your right, its is a pain to adjust but not to measure. Thanks for the heads up KoKomo, very informative. But, come to find out it might not be the cct or valves at all. In my accident i bent my frame slider which is connected to engine and all i did was bend it back in place so the bolt is a little loose so i think thats where the clattering is coming from, lol. But im still going to check the cct and valves anyway just to make sure. Thanks guys. By the way, if i do have to adjust the valves dont i have re-time the cam chain again since i have to take that out to get to the valves?
 

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Perpetual Project
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3,695 Posts
Hope its a simple fix. Those are the best, the hardest part is finding out that all it needs is a simple fix.

I'd recommend doing a valve adjustment anyway, if you havnt done one up to 14k I'm sure at least a couple will be out of spec. I'd say download or buy the manual (somebody post the link to that repair manual site???) you'll need a micrometer to measure the shims once they're out FYI.
 

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is not your fucking bro
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7,216 Posts
thats why i said line your cams and crank up by the book. but thats the easiest part mine the crank pick up has a line and you put it in the middle of the pickup magnet. then put in my intake camwhile making sure there is o slack in the chain . it has the number 1 -4 every 90 degrees. put number 1 at the deck number 2 will be straight up. counts 13 pins of the chain and set the exhaust cam in and put number 3 i think at the 13th pin and bolt em and reinstall the tensioner. takes 5 minutes.in the bike my valve adjustment takes an hour and a half if im careful. and careful is the word. dont drop shims in the motor or your fucked.
 

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BikerfromtheBX
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Good news, the noise was just my frame slider sliding around on the engine bolt, it became loose after my accident, only problem is i cant get the bolt out since it bent. Any suggestions?
 
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