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Fusable link ? Maybe just crimp a fancy 2 pole connector on a link one side goes to battery and the other to the m-unit. Make a few spares...
https://www.rkssales.com.au/product_details.php?prodID=1607
It's a clean idea.

Had to look up fusable wire. Never seen it before.

Maybe as last resort. I could see it going wrong, in a big way.

Fancy 2 pole connector? No idea what that looks like, even after searching.

If wiring was an event in the Special Olympics, I'd probably come in last. <a href="http://www.customfighters.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin" >:)</a>
Buy a nice 2 pin connector. Eg A molex or Deutsch. Run a wire from the battery to this plug. Run a wire to the positive terminal on your m-unit and put that in on the other position. The other side of the plug loop the fusable link between the two. Effectively you plug the fuse in as it’s one side of a plug and socket.

Just an idea, it’s Small, light weight has very few parts can be placed anywhere...
 

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BLACK BELT
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6,954 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,543
Thinking this morning about tinning wire ends for the main fuse setup. Common sense says when I tighten screws on the wire ends, the solder would break up. Read about wire ferrules, never seen one before. The M-Unit also uses screws to secure the wires, so I'll need ferrules and a ferrule crimping tool.

Just found this info. Doesn't really explain the problem. My bike does have a CDI ignition. Do I need a relay? Not clear to me why.

"If you think about how the m-Unit outputs work it becomes clear why a CDI will not work here, the Ignition Out provides 12v+ power which the CDI does not require. But by using a common 5 pole, normally closed relay we can make this work just like any other ignition. When the m-Unit provides power to the Ignition Output the relay opens the switched circuit. When the Kill Switch is activated the m-Unit cuts power to the relay in turn closing the switched circuit, grounding the CDI and eliminating ignition spark."

 

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Breaking shit...
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3,217 Posts
the relay provides the ground circuit needed to kill the ignition when you turn the engine off.
 

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Breaking shit...
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oh, sorry. my understanding of CDI is basic at best but I think that the relay is used to ground the capacitor in the CDI. if it isnt switched to ground to drain the capacitor off the ignition will continue to operate until the capacitor charge is used up, which I dont think will happen as the stator is still providing power to the CDI while the engine is spinning. the relay doesnt provide any power, just a ground to discharge the capacitor and kill ignition.

Normally, terminal 30 would provide power to 87 when the relay is activated but in this set-up it grounds the capacitor out. I would imagine a regular kill switch would work but I dont know how an M-Unit integrates into the ignition system. Kinda looks like this setup just makes ignition off controllable through the M-Unit switches.

If Im wrong, please correct me (anybody). Im certainly no expert here, just trying to figure it out like you...
 

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The friendly Ghost.
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It appears as if the M-Unit wants to control the kill switch in place of standard kill switch on the handlebars. Maybe this is for the M-unit to have a smaller rated switch send the signal to the unit and then kill the power.

If you are still using the handlebar kill switch, I would assume that you can ignore this whole installation step.
 

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I believe the m-unit also has an alarm/security function, could be needed for that part of the functionality, or it could be so that you can use their handlebar switches.
 

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BLACK BELT
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Discussion Starter #1,549
Trying to figure out how to wire up the left handlebar switches using the m-unit.

Not as easy as I hoped. The headlight wires come out of the switch housing. Looks like I'll need to cut them and run them to the m-unit and back.

Using the switchgear (#47) from a WR250X.
Will report progress in a minute.

 

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old fart
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Trying to figure out how to wire up the left handlebar switches using the m-unit.

Not as easy as I hoped. The headlight wires come out of the switch housing. Looks like I'll need to cut them and run them to the m-unit and back.

Using the switchgear (#47) from a WR250X.
Will report progress in a minute.

M-button?

https://motogadget.com/shop/en/m-button.html
 

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BLACK BELT
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Discussion Starter #1,552
I believe the m-unit also has an alarm/security function, could be needed for that part of the functionality, or it could be so that you can use their handlebar switches.
To use the motion detector, the m-unit needs to be mounted vertically, on it's side. No matter how I tried, that kind of install looked weird and unattractive. So, I mounted it horizontally.

Doubt I'll be leaving this bike in a place where it could be stolen.

Plus, I can hardly wait for someone to try. :muah:

Not feeling the m-button. Don't like how it looks, plus almost every m-unit install I've seen uses it. M-button is not an option. Need to figure out the wiring situation.
 

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Should be fairly easy, looks like the mUnit is "basically" a bank of relays, along with some other fancy stuff. This is oversimplifying it's functionality, but as far as your switch wiring goes it's a good analogy.

Run power to the input of the switch, the switch wiring outputs to the input side of the mUnit, and the output side of the mUnit to whatever needs powered.
 

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BLACK BELT
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6,954 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,556
WR250X switchgear has 3 connectors. This is how I did it. (So far.)

#1 has 3 wires, Yellow, DkGreen, and Brown. (To dash indicator lights.)
Yellow- to high beam indicator light. Works!!
DkGreen- to right turn indicator light. BAD. Indicator light stays on all the time.
Brown- to left turn indicator light. BAD. Indicator light stays on all the time.

So, high beam indicator light working. DkGreen & Brown wires are disconnected.

#2 has 3 wires, Yellow, Green, and Black. (To Headlight.)
Yellow- to headlight, then to high beam indicator light. Works!!
Green- to headlight. Works!!
Black- to headlight, then to ground. Grounded.

Low/high beam switch, headlight, and indicator light working.

#3 has 6 wires.
Pink- to m-unit Horn In, m-unit Horn Out, to horn, to ground. Works!!
Black- to ground. Grounded.
DkGreen- to m-unit Turn Right in, m-unit Turn Right out, to signal lamp, to ground.
.................also signal lamp to indicator light, to ground. Works!!
Brown- to m-unit Turn Left in, m-unit Turn Left out, to signal lamp, to ground.
.................also signal lamp to indicator light, to ground. Works!!
Blue- to m-unit AUX (key switched power)Works!!
Tan/Blue- to ground. Grounded.

Turn signals, indicator lights, and horn working.
 

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For the headlight, run the power out of the mUnit (Light and High Beam) to the low and high terminals of your headlamp plug.

You run either the yellow or green wire (whichever is high beam) from the switch gear to the input side "Light" of the mUnit.

The low beam wire from the switch doesn't look like it's needed. I'm assuming it's controlled by the ignition switch input.

The high beam indicator can get power either from the switch wire to the mUnit, or the power wire from the mUnit to the socket. I'd probably grab it from the switch...
 

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BLACK BELT
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Discussion Starter #1,560
Ordered some wire from 4RCustomsWire.

Found their pricing interesting.

Pack of (6) 5ft wires = $17.95. Same price for a pack of (6) 10ft wires.

Pack of (10) 10ft wires = $23.95. Same price for a pack of (10) 25ft wires.

Other weird stuff, too. Calculated it all out to get the best deal, without buying a shitload of extra wire.

Got some 3M dielectric grease.

Any suggestions for an inexpensive soldering iron/gun?
 
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