Custom Fighters - Custom Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum banner

1561 - 1580 of 1582 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
287 Posts
I've always used these crimp splices and good heat shrink, but the money you would save on a soldering iron would be spent on a crimping tool...




http://www.cycleterminal.com/splice-terminals.html


Always a trade off. With solder you have to make sure you get a good hot, shiny joint, and with the crimps you have to make sure that they are crimped properly so the wires cannot pull free.

As to which is better? You'll find differing opinions on it, but keep in mind the manufacturers pretty much crimp everything... YMMV.
 

·
Is my bike ok?
Joined
·
15,000 Posts
OEM's dont have the time to solder joints. They are pumping out stuff fast as they can sell it. They also don't want their products to last forever, putting them out of a job. Nothing against crimps, just playing Devil's Advocate. There's arguments for & against both methods. I do both depending on what I'm doing.
 

·
BLACK BELT
Joined
·
6,913 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,564
I'm afraid of using crimp splices, only because of lack of experience.

I did a little wire soldering in Bancroft Junior High electric shop. :rock:

Thanks, Larry for helping me along.

I might I have one of those pencil torches somewhere. Will poke around and see if I can find it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
287 Posts
There's arguments for & against both methods. I do both depending on what I'm doing.
That there is. I think the most important thing is, if you are doing crimps, get a good crimping tool and make sure your crimps are done properly. If you are doing solder, make sure you don't get cold joints. I'd support either with quality heat shrink regardless.

This is a pretty good article about it:

https://millennialdiyer.com/articles/motorcycles/electrical-repair-crimp-or-solder/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
287 Posts
I'm afraid of using crimp splices, only because of lack of experience.
With a good crimper and a little practice, they are much easier and faster than soldering.

I believe each method has it's proper place, but with stranded wire in a possibly high heat and high vibration area I personally prefer crimping.

Shiny's right though, everyone is going to have their preference and reasons for one method or another.
 

·
re-tarded
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
on the suspension bolts, is that just a center in the threaded end or are they drilled most of the way through?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Smoker

·
BLACK BELT
Joined
·
6,913 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,572
on the suspension bolts, is that just a center in the threaded end or are they drilled most of the way through?
Some of you guys never miss a thing. :D

Machinist had to put a divot in the threaded end, I guess, to hold it properly in the lathe for cutting the threads, etc.

Very happy Bill called me and asked if a divot is okay.

Fuck no, it's not okay. None of my other hardware has that. I told Bill to drill it out. I do have plenty of drilled/lightened bolts.

Because I'm no engineer, I don't know how much I can drill out of the suspension bolts.

On these bolts, the hole doesn't go very far past the threads. Not fully drilled, for safety.
 

·
re-tarded
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Some of you guys never miss a thing. :D

Machinist had to put a divot in the threaded end, I guess, to hold it properly in the lathe for cutting the threads, etc.

Very happy Bill called me and asked if a divot is okay.

Fuck no, it's not okay. None of my other hardware has that. I told Bill to drill it out. I do have plenty of drilled/lightened bolts.

Because I'm no engineer, I don't know how much I can drill out of the suspension bolts.

On these bolts, the hole doesn't go very far past the threads. Not fully drilled, for safety.
Yes, in order to support the end of the part when threading, you have to use a live center. It goes into an angled hole in the end... but the walls on the hole there appear straight so I was thinking it might go (almost) all the way through to save weight.

If you were opposed to having a hole at all in the end, he would've had to make the parts longer and then cut off the depth of the hole.

Was this CNC or manual? I don't see a thread relief groove, which makes me think CNC.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 929_adam

·
BLACK BELT
Joined
·
6,913 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,575
Since I posted this pic of the new kill switch, I've been trying to figure it out.



Was confused by this info in the service manual:



Looks like I need a normally closed kill switch. The switch I have, and all the ones I see like it are normally open. The normally closed kill switches I see are all larger teathered switches.

Kept searching, and found this info from a vendor. Looks like I'm good to go because I'm using a Zeeltronic CDI.

"If you want a kill switch you will connect the black/white wire on the PCDI-10VT to a normally open switch with the other side of the switch connected to ground."

Now, I think maybe I don't need the Normally Closed Relay. Not sure. I did find it, and the matching wiring plug on Ebay for less than $10usd.

 

·
BLACK BELT
Joined
·
6,913 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,576
Fuck me, almost 3 am. Took 2 pain pills and a sleeping pill. Still in too much pain to sleep.

Speaking of pain, can you guess what happened with my latest parts order? :D

Of course it got fucked up! Ordered and paid for 2 pieces. Invoice says 2 pieces. Received only one piece in the box. Fuck, fuck and double-fuck.

Ever see one of these? I've never noticed one on any bike I've seen.



Hopefully, I'll be getting another one soon.

Should be cool if they work well.
 

·
Eff Tee Pee
Joined
·
29,547 Posts
How is the pressure applied?
 
1561 - 1580 of 1582 Posts
Top