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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok folks. got my ace fighter started today and although it is runnung a bit rough, at least it is runnung.

my probem is that as soon as I change into 1st gear it stalls. I have done a quick and dirty sidestand switch bypass with no effect. the strange thing is that when I try and shift back into neutral I cant get the pedal to move. I have to thumb the starter to make the bike jump forward while applying gentle upward pressure to the pedal to get it back into neutral.

the bike has sat unstarted for a long time but I presume dodgy oil wouldnt cause this sort of problem?
 

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if it's been sitting a while it could just the clutch plates stuck together


Can you roll it round in gear with the clutch lever pulled
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i have had stuck clutch plates suggested on anothef forum so that is my main suspect so far. Thd bike is parked on a sloped driveway and while it rolls back ok, pushing it forward is virtually impossible.

However that coukx be because I am trying to push it uphill against gravity, because the brakez are binding a bit or because of thd rusted to shit chain that has seen very little movement in the last two years.

i have been advised to changd thd oil and gef the engind warm and then keep operatinv the clutcjh to see if they unstick. if that fails I have been advised to try and unstick them nanually.
 

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ah!


You could always see if it rolls down the hill backwards in gear with the clutch pulled...err...assuming the brakes and chain are free :LolLolLolLol:


I had to leave a cable tie on mines lever overnight too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
have just zip tied the lever to see what happens. It is worth a go as I cant do oil change until middle of next week.

BTW it wont roll backwards or forwards in gear with the clutch in, so stuck clutch plates it is!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
still haven't sorted out the clutch but I now have another problem. the bike is idling higher than it should. cant tell how high as no clocks fitted but it definitely aint right. I have tried using the idle adjustment screw by the oil filler but that makes no difference.

is this a sign that I need to balance the carbs? the carbs are a second hand set off ebay which I have never had running on the bike until now.

I have been advised that the carb inlet rubbers may have perished resulting in an air leak. I have tried spraying carb cleaner at the inlet rubbers which is not an easy thing to do on my bike. However, when i did this, the revs bogged down to nearly stalling and when i stopped spraying the revs came back to their high idle level again.
 

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That's a giveaway the carb boots are shot and it's leaking air- the idle is fast since extra air is getting in after the throttle plates reducing vacuum, and also leaning it out which causes a rpm surge. I would replace them ASAP, air leaks are not good for engines.
 

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^^^^^^^ true story


air leaks at intake = runnin super hot:(
 

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If you want to make extra sure its the boots, while the engines running spray starting fluid around the boots. If thenrpm's jumpmnthen its definitely a leak. As for the issues with the clutch or trans binding, the purpose of zip tying the clutch lever is basically the super low maintenance of forcing the plates to separate. If you want to make sure they're apart, just open up your clutch cover after you've drained the oil for the oil change and inspect them. It's a good idea anyways if its an old bike and not much more work at all if you're already changing the oil. The zipntie trick might not work but it could still be sticky plates. Let us know what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i am going to try another bit of qdvice and jam the frojtcwheel against a wall, get the engine warm in neutral and drop it into gear.

if that fails then as I need to do an oil change anyway, I might as well take the cover off and look at the clutch. .will I need to take the clutch apart? I beleive there is a special tool required for the job.


as for the high idle popular opinion is leaking carb boots. last time I had the carbs off I had a bugger of a time getting them reseated as the rubbers had hardened quite a bit. there are used rubbers on ebay for around £25 upwards so I will get some next week..
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok have got the clutch plates out. when i have separated them do i need to soak em in oil overnight before they go back in or is that only applicable to new clutch plates?
 

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Personally I would let them sit in oil for an hour or so. As far as the steels go I would hit the with a scotch brite pad to get ride of any spots that look rough. Run your fingers over the surface make sure they feel smooth. Then dip steels in oil as you reassemble the clutch pack. Should help them come back to life and function. Also if you have and extra person get them to squeeze the clutch while you watch the pressure plate to see if it moves after assembly before you install the cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i fukin hate this bike. Put the clutch back together and torqued up the spring bolts as per the manual. Started the bike up and put it into 1st and nothing changed when I leg the clutch out. it continuex idling as if in neutral. This made me think that maybe I had tightened up the spring bolts enough. I whipped the clutch cover off again and set my torque wrench to 8nm and commenced to tighten the bolts again. The main reason why I thought I may not have tightened them before was when the torque wrench has reached the right setting it is meant to disengage which it didnt do. I stopped because I didnt want to risk overtightening them.

Anyway I carried on tightening each bolt and they got tighter and tighter.... And then one of them snapped its head off!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have never used this torque wrench before so I dont know if this is the tools fault or mine.

Now I presume I need another clutch basket if I cannt get the remains of the bolt out.

Can I temporarily use the clutch with only 5 bolts?

and lastly what else could have caused the problem I had when I first put the clutch back together?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ok chaps. How do I get the remains of the clutch spring bolt out?
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I do have a set of bolt extractors but I am not sure they will work in such a small space.
 
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