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stunting is not a crime
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok Ive read a couple of threads on how to check the stator and i have the manual and i was reading over that section and im not understanding on how to check it. Ive read a "no load test" but it tells you to have the bike at or above 5,000 rpm, but it doesnt tell you what to check and where to check? so I need help with that. And how to check a regulator/rectifier that has been hard wired ( the plug is gone)?.
 

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The friendly Ghost.
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13,172 Posts
Please do copy and paste what you are reading.

What bike are we helping you with? (Make, model, year?)

What modifications to the wiring have you/previous owners performed? (Cuts, splices, jumpers, repairs, bypasses, accessory installation?)

Do you have a multimeter? (If this answer is no, get one or take the bike to a shop.)

What is the issue you are facing? (Is you battery not charging, is your battery constantly dead, are you blowing up headlight bulbs at an alarming rate, are your headlights increasing in brightness as you rev higher and higher, are your lights flickering too much?)

When was the last time you replaced your battery? (A good battery is usually a good thing; if you can justify it, replace batteries over 3 years old.)

When was the last time the regulator/rectifier was replaced? (Hard wiring seems to be a simple solution to a horrible issue of plugs melting. That doesn't mean it is the best solution and usually requires more work later down the road.)

No load test usually means that you don't have excess items running (starter, high beams, brake lights, turn signals, heated gear, accessories...). If you are testing the R/R, it usually means to have a multimeter with the leads connected to the battery terminals and checking for voltage. The R/R's job is to first make the voltage all positive and then make the voltage cap out at 13-14 volts (actually should peak around +-19 volts before the R/R does its job). What you are looking for when raising the RPMs is that the system voltage never exceeds this 13-14 voltage mark (bad R/Rs will continue up to 15, 16, 17... volts) as this causes the battery to 1) overcharge and 2) electronics to fry due to too high voltage.

As for checking the stator, it usually is a process of looking at the resistance of the three coils to make sure they are within spec. Beyond that, I don't have experience.

Most field manuals have step by step instructions with some pretty pictures. Make sure you read (not skim, all the way) through the process before starting it (with all the tools already is preferred). If you run into problems, we can usually help you further. If you don't understand the field manual, we may be able to point you in the right direction to get you started.
 
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A very quick & dirty check for charging & reg/rec performance is to stick a multi meter across the terminals of a charged battery with the bike running you should get around 13.8 to 14.2v every bike is slightly different but the exact figures should be in the manual

Under the lower reading or the reading not raising then its not charging properly if at all could be reg/rec or alternator problem, over the high reading its over charging & that's a reg/rec problem

Some bikes will need to be revved a little to get a reading as some gsxr's for example don't charge until 2000 revs

Battery's ..... check amps as well as volts

Hope it helps
 

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stunting is not a crime
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i cant copy and paste but heres the link its on page 275 http://www.suzukigsxr.cz/docs/Suzuki_GSX-R_750_96-99.pdf

but i have a 96 gsxr 750, with just a muffler on it, and the regulator has already been hard wired when i got, and yes i have a mulitmeter, but the bike didnt start and i got a new battery yesterday, i just want to make sure that the stator or RR isnt bad because from what Ive read that they have been known to melt the plugs. I dont want to put a new battery in and 2 days later it wont start. So I was gonna test them both just to make sure that theres nothing wrong with them. And to check the RR how am I gonna do that with it being hard wired already? thats another problem? and i can take it to a shop, but i like doing the work myself its alot cheaper.
 

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The friendly Ghost.
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13,172 Posts
What bike are we helping you with?

96 gsxr 750
What modifications to the wiring have you/previous owners performed?

the regulator has already been hard wired when i got
Do you have a multimeter?

yes i have a mulitmeter
What is the issue you are facing?

the bike didnt start
When was the last time you replaced your battery?

i got a new battery yesterday
Organized a little bit.



i just want to make sure that the stator or RR isnt bad because from what Ive read that they have been known to melt the plugs. So I was gonna test them both just to make sure that theres nothing wrong with them. And to check the RR how am I gonna do that with it being hard wired already?
Do you have the bike running?

A bit of resistance in the plugs causes more heat than they are designed for and the plugs melt. This is a problem with many (I may venture to say all) regulator/rectifiers. Are you worried about these parts due to them being a current unknown to you or because you are afraid of using the battery's warranty if they end up bad? (Brand new batteries come with warranties when purchased from a reputable dealer.)

How would I check the hard wired R/R? I would put the battery in, get her running and then check charging voltage.

Alternatively, you can cut the hard wired R/R out and solder in a good quality marine grade plug.

Or the ghetto way would be to shove the pointy multimeter lead through the wire insulation and cover with liquid electrical tape and a layer of electrical tape.
 

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stunting is not a crime
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have a 6 month warranty replace no questions asked, but yes im worried if the parts are good because of the hard wired RR. Ok so to check the charging voltage? I would just have the bike run and check at the battery? sorry for the question but i have no idea when it comes to anything electrical.
 

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stunting is not a crime
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
sounds good thanks guys and i will for sure be updating. ok another question, so check the volts before then put the battery in and start it and let it warm up or not? then check the volts, then report back with the info i have?
 
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Ok now we know what bike etc .........

With a fully charged battery check its voltage first then fit it & check it again with the ign off, nothing should have changed but I have seen the voltage drop when bodged wiring is involved so its worth a look.

Next start the bike & get it ticking over with the lights off if possible, it wont matter if its on choke as long as the tickover is constant, check voltage across the battery again voltage should rise slightly, rev to 2.5 -3000 & check voltage again it should rise & peak at roughly what I posted originally (exact figures should be in the manual)

Make a note of it all & come back to us ........ one more thing its common for the alternator plugs to melt on these & the solution is to solder them so that in itself is not a cause for concern
 

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stunting is not a crime
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
phuck i wanna light a rag in the SOB but 12.6 battery byself and 12.6 installed not running but then when i start it it just cranks and cranks and now its not starting
 
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Seems like you don't want all the information...
Wtf :fu:

no point in getting too tech on the guy all he wants to know is if its charging or what the problem is & its easier to do it in stages rather than dump a load of shit on him that may not be relevant
 
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phuck i wanna light a rag in the SOB but 12.6 battery byself and 12.6 installed not running but then when i start it it just cranks and cranks and now its not starting
Is it cranking fairly slowly ?
Check the amps rather than the volts across the battery (ign off) its possible to have 12v but not enough CCA (cold cranking amps) to start the bike.

it could be a dead battery but what has caused it we wont know until you have a known good one on there for a repeat of the first tests
 

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stunting is not a crime
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
no it cranks fast like normal and you can hear that it wants to start but nothing happens, its a brand new battery
 
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