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British Bloke in Canada
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there folks so ive been messing with Steering Dampener issues so I came off in a sunny rare day in Feb on some gravel, I bent my Dampener, and bought a new one, and it caused a slight Wobble in the Steeing the at slow speed, When I remove it, No wobble the bike rides absolutely fine, So I thought I had a defective unit and bought another one, Same thing... Wobbly

Without the dampener. not a problem

So what am I missing anyone got any Idea's cause im a little Comfabulated, Perplexed,

I was reading on another forum that the little off I had may of twisted the forks in the tripples a little and I should loosen off the tripples then install then tighten everything up, it was allso mentioned that the very top nut on the tripple maybe too tight.
 

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"Fuck yo couch" -Socrates
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1,010 Posts
Too much torque on the stem bearing preload nut can definitely cause this. Had this issue when I put the front end back together with new tapered bearings on my 748. They were binding when the forks crossed the center point and I thought the valving in my damper was fubar. Actually put me in a tank slapper at 70mph merging lanes... NOT COOL.


Loosen the forks and try backing off the preload nut for the stem bearings a tad. I did this and it got rid of my wobble. Good luck.
 

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I haven't had a bike with a dampener for a while, I don't like them honestly; makes steering less predictable for me. I feel like they're a bit of a handicap for flawed fork geometry and improper grip.


Make sure your fork height is set right; I like to set the fork height of one fork tighten the triples to keep it still then thread the axle in as much as I can with my hand then wiggle the other fork up and down to the point of which the axle is easiest to thread; you've found the sweet spot when you can thread it completely with your hand as well as unthreading it without a lot of force. But if you can't thread it all the way in and out that's alright; you'll know when you've got the fork too high or low, just wiggle it a tiny hair at a time and you'll find the sweet spot.

Align your front to where you can let go of the bars at any speed and the bike will track straight by loosening your lower triples, pinch bolts, also break your axle free. There's plenty of methods like bouncing the suspension in a downward motion but my results are always iffy doing it like that; try it though.

I like to make the tire straight in comparison to the frame and I'll hold it solid between my legs and I'll pull the handlebars/uppers straight. Put all your weight on the leg which you're pulling against to keep the wheel perfectly still and straight. Check your alignment in various spots, top triple to frame distance on both sides, rim to fork distance. You're probably better off measuring it using a ruler or caliper but I eyeball it and use my fingers on the rim to fork leg and I always end up with alignment that I can let go of the bars at any speed and the bike rides true. I also do not have problems with wobbles at high speeds even with pro taper dirt bars.

As for tightening the triples and pinch bolts, use a plain non ratchet wrench; make them wrist tight. Also tighten them in criss cross sequence quarter turn at a time or so. I like to get two 12/10 mm wrenches and I'll tighten two bolts simultaneously for a good even torque. If the bolts/threads start making noise STOP, you do not want to strip these although they are in a good location to tap/helicoil it's still a pita.

I'm sure there are better methods but I've set a lot of bikes (mine and other peopls) and I've never had a complaint, I trust my life to it anyway.

Also as Dan said, check your steering bearings, get the wheel off the ground then can you wiggle the forks back and forth, do they like to set straight ahead? Check for any resistance turning the forks left to right; it should be even smooth.
 

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British Bloke in Canada
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2,146 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had my front end apart, backed off the preload nuts a tage and it seems to be a little better, there dosnt seem be any play in the bearings them selves,
So the Damper went back on and its not so bad but still there, and without the damper, no wiggle,
So I guess the bike is gonna have to do with out till the winter and ill replace the head stock bearings, as far as I know they have never been replaced, cause i never did it. and ive had the bike seven years.
 

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steering damper

not dampener.
You're a damper

I had my front end apart, backed off the preload nuts a tage and it seems to be a little better, there dosnt seem be any play in the bearings them selves,
So the Damper went back on and its not so bad but still there, and without the damper, no wiggle,
So I guess the bike is gonna have to do with out till the winter and ill replace the head stock bearings, as far as I know they have never been replaced, cause i never did it. and ive had the bike seven years.
As long as there is no play nor is there a direction that the steering defaults to they're probably fine. Go over your fork geometry/alignment and make sure it's all good and set. But yeah dampers are great for highway speed and above but they do have their fits at different speeds
 
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