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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased a stock steering stabilizer from a 01 gixxer 600 off of ebay. It will be going on my supermoto bike on the bottom triple clamp. Have any of you had one of these apart enough to change the oil? That will be my only way of adjusting it. I'm too cheap to buy a scotts or gpr and I got this one for $10, so something is better than nothing.
 

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The Soft Serve Enigma
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Cover the work area with newspaper. lol

This write-up is courtesy of my friend Bert, and it's a kick ass mod.

-remove the little screw that is about 2/3 the way up the damper body

-invert the screw hole and start pumping the existing crap out of the damper

- when done, using a syringe with a fairly large gauge needle (eg 21 or bigger), suck up some good quality fork/shock oil in the desired weight (a good starting point is 5w)

- insert the needle into the screw hole, allowing it to bend around the damper shaft

- slowly inject the new oil into the damper while slowly pumping the shaft in and out (no snickering)

- once you've moved a few cc's of the good stuff in, put the screw back in, pump back and forth, unscrew and pump the new oil out - this cleans the remnants of crap out

- restart the relatively slow process of filling the syringe and emptying it into the damper (note, it is quite often simpler to remove the needle, suck up the new oil, replace the needle and inject - the viscosity is fairly easy to overcome on the inject, but tough as hell on the "upsuck").

- keep adding slowly, allowing the bubbles to exit and pop. If you try to hurry it, you will just spread oil out on the pan and paper you are working over.

- every now and then, pump the damper without the needle in just to remove air blocks. Do it SLOWLY or you will wear the oil

- at some point the damper shaft will go from a notchy feeling to a smooth one. Its almost digital in the way it occurs. At this point, you can pretty much guarantee that its full.

Hint: buy more than one syringe and needle. If you buy just one, you will break the plunger or strip the needle threads on the syringe. If you buy spares, you will only need one. Sound familiar?

Having done this, you now have a temperature resistant steering damper that has consistent damping throughout the shaft range. You can consider that it is adjustable, because, opposite to say Ohlins, which has a fixed viscosity and variable orifice, the oem one has a fixed orifice and variable (though labour intensive) viscosity.

This leaves you with $$$$ to spend on suspension or whatever, rather than the killer prices that aftermarket dampers seem to demand.

PS: I use a 20cc syringe, though it depends entirely on you. The larger the syringe, the tougher the plunger. Little diabetic sized ones tend to bend the plunger more quickly if you are putting in any kind of viscosity greater than 2.5w."
 

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Function IS Form
19 Z900, 88 Kat11
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17,432 Posts
Although the GPR and Scott's dampers can be adjusted in about half a second while riding the bike :D
I suggest doing this to your stock damper if you ride fast or stunt at all and can't afford an aftermarket. SO worth it.
 
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