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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I found this on CL about 1.5 months ago. I picked it up non-running, sitting outside, and with a backwards front fender for $575. It had a title issue but I got it sorted and into my name. The only thing I did be prior to the build-off was remove the big stock tail light and butchered rear fender and bought a used Zr7 starter motor because the stock was fried. I did get it to sputter a couple days ago on starting fluid but that's it.




After taking the required pics, I rearranged the garage and started breaking it down to get at the carbs. I finally got the off to find them filled with crud and some jelly looking stuff.




Here's what I'm shooting for...


Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I woke up today, ate breakfast, headed to the garage and started by removing the chain only to found a 15T rear sprocket. (Ok, it's suppose to be 38T but over half of teeth are missing.)


I have to change the sprocket which means pulling the wheel.....screw it! I yanked the whole setup.



What should I put back in there? Hmmm.....





I measured both the stock arm as well as the Vfr and there was only a difference of .280". I removed the grease seals and got out the trusty 4" angle grinder with a grinding wheel to roughly trim the swingarm. Then I followed up with a 60grit flap disk.




I borrowed a 19T 5/8" offset sprocket from my Kz900 for mockup and it appears that the chain line is almost perfect. I used the old VFR chain so that's why it has a curve in the middle.


Today's parts total:
VFR swingarm setup ~$350

Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Since I got the swingarm very roughly fitted I decided that I should deal with the positions of the upper shock mount and lower linkage frame mount. I made a jig that locates the two pickup points relative to the axle.



So now I'm waiting on some material for swingarm spacers, a sealed bearing for the right side of the swingarm, and a clevis for the upper shock mount.

Parts ordered:
6061 1.25" OD x 12" - $10.09
6904-2RS Bearing - $3.20
'05-08 ZZR600 Clevis - $7.98

Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
While waiting for NeverEnough to show up, I thought I would relieve the frame of some unneeded tabs and brackets.
I cut off the original shock mount since it's way off from the VFR shock mount, a couple battery tray tabs, and some other little brackets.




I also roughly positioned the shock and linkage using my jig I made since I now have more room to work with the unnecessary tabs removed.



That's all I got done today.

Today's parts total:
$0

Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got the material for the swingarm spacers yesterday and spent most of yesterday evening and part of this evening making them plus double, triple, and quadruple checking the fitment. I was able to get the chain lined up and get the swingarm snug between the frame rails. I just hope when I cinch down the pivot bolt it doesn't bind everything up.


And the actual chain run with the chained pull nice and tight.


Today's parts total:
5/8 offset 530 17T front sprocket - $25

Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
After finishing up some spacers for one of NeverEnough's projects, I set out to finish de-tabbing the lower crossmember.



It seems counterproductive to then make and add back tabs to the lower crossmember, but the original lower suspension and center-stand mounts were in the wrong locations.




Then I tack welded the tab on using my handy dandy jig I made.



I'll fab and tack weld the other lower mount on tomorrow evening I hope.

Today's parts total:
$0 (used scrap metal I already had for the tab)

Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Knocked out the other lower tab today.



I also came up with some mock-up adjustable lowering links using an old Zx7 brake stay and some more parts from my 900 build.



Everything looks fairly centered.


Today's parts total:
$0 - All scrap metal

Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did some brain-storming and came up with an idea for my linkage. I have a length of 1.125"x.125" tube that I cut down to roughly 4.125". I turned the down ends of the tube slightly as well as opening up the inside of the rod ends as manufacturing tolerances are horrible. Next will be getting the tube to the correct length as I only quickly mocked it up to see the feasibility.

Once the tube is the right length, I'll bore the inside to 24mm and 25mm deep so that the stock pivot bearings can be used then the rod ends lightly pressed on. I'm still trying to decide if I need dust seals, too.






Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got my lowering links today. Not exactly what I was expecting but I can make them work for me. I machined the tube to accept the stock linkage bearings EXCEPT I accidentally flipped the tube around and machined too much out of the end that was a perfect fit for the bearing already. :doh: So looks like I'll have to make another tube which I count as more practice.:thumbsup: At least I can use this for mock-up.





Today's parts total:
Lowering links - $65

Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Finished up my linkage and made sure everything played nice together and it does.





Next up is designing and fabbing the upper shock mount.

Today's parts total:
$0

Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I may have copied (or at least heavily borrowed) from Les Holt's upper shock design. But it seemed like the best design and solution for my problem.

I made a couple bungs for the upper shock bolt. The tubes will then be welded to the bungs and then to the original shock crossmember and another spot to be determined.






Tomorrow's goal is tube notching and maybe some tack welds if I'm lucky.

Today's parts total:
$9.17 - Cold drawn steel stock

Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I started late today with a 51" long piece of 7/8" x .065" 4130 Chromoly. About an hour later, I got one tube done and tacked in. I started the other lower tube, only to cut it a bit sort so I gave up for the day.






And a nice parting shot...


Today's parts total:
$24.70 - Chromoly tube

Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So I remade the right side lower tube but I'm not sure how I like the angle. I have it almost against the frame but because the shock is offset, it's at a different angle from the left side. I kinda want the tubes to be symmetrical but I also want them to attach roughly at the same points near the frame.



Thoughts?







Later, Doug


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I really haven't felt like dealing with notching the rest of the tubes at compound angles so I've been gathering and fitting parts over the last few weeks.

I got a '98 Vfr800 front rim, a set of Zrx1100 forks and a set of Zx11 triples with handlebars to start.

First thing was to buy some 25ID bearings for the Vfr rim to go from the 20mm stock axle to the 25mm Zx11 axle. But then I realized that the 20mm ID inner tube bearing spacer would be impossible to use so I took a chance and ordered a used Zx7 spacer hoping that it would be too long and I could trim it to size. It was so that was easy enough to shorten in the lathe.


Then I found out the Vfr inner hub has some extra casting material that needed to be filed down to let the bigger OD of the spacer tube pass through.



So with the correct bearings, everything played well together until I had to figure out the wheel spacers. Because the Zx/Zrx11 uses a mechanical speedo drive the left axle clamp is offset to get the needed room. This meant that I could not simple make two identical spacers. But here's what I came up with...





Everything together and ready for me to figure out brake fitment and spacing


Which lead me to my next headache: finding a set of 310mm rotors that have the correct offset and bolt pattern for a Vfr800 rim in a set of Zrx1100 forks held in place by Zx11 triple clamps. I've looked and they don't exist. So I did a lot of research and found that I could possible use a set of Cbr600RR rotors or certain models of Gsxr rotors with the right adapter/spacer. I found a set of used aftermarket Cbr600RR rotors for a good price and bought them just so I'd have a starting point.


I also bought some 5" OD x 1.00" thick 6061 round bar stock from eBay.


All was right with the world as I had drawn up some sketches of the spacer/adapter until I placed the rotor on the wheel to see what actual offset I needed.


It turns out that I failed to take into account a small lip to hold the rotor concentric to the space. SO now I'm pretty sure that the fastener that will hold the spacer to the rim will also try to take up the same space as the concentric lip. And that's where it's been sitting for the last week or so.

Any thoughts besides buying more aluminum and different rotors?

Today's parts total:
$39.95 - Vfr800 front rim
$5.64 - 25x47x12 6005-2RS bearings
$5.50 - Zx7 wheel spacer
$45.54 - Cbr600RR brake rotors
$18.35 - 6061 5" round bar
$80.00 - Zx11 triple clamps, handlebars, and axle
$80.00 - Zrx1100 fork legs

Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I forged ahead today on the brake rotor adapters/spacers. Let me just say that working with 5" OD stock on a 7" swing lathe takes some out of the box thinking but I think I got most of the problems solved except the spacer-to-rim mounting bolts being so close to the lip. Using allen headed bolts will help but won't completely solve the issue.

First I drilled a hole in the center and used an expanding arbor to hold the workpiece so I could form the lip that keeps the rotor concentric. Once that was done I drilled and tapped two holes and used those to mount the piece to a faceplate where I could bore the ID to fit over the rim's hub.




Then with some careful positioning I used a transfer punch to mark two of the holes for the spacer-to-rim bolts.



I still need to finalize the thickness, drill the other 8 holes, plus clean it up a little to reduce some weight. But here it is in a temporary state.


At least I made progress, as I've been brainstorming about this for a few weeks now.

Today's parts total:
$10 - Brake rotor bolts

Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I finalized one side today. I was able thin the lip and get enough clearance to use socket headed screws just fine. The spacer/adapter actually ended up thinner than I thought but still plenty of material for strength.





How it looks all bolted up.


Just about as centered as I think I can get it.


Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Since the holiday is done and life is back to normal, I made my way back to the garage and made the third version of the right lower shock mount tube.



But I'm not sure if I want to keep a similar design for the upper tubes or go parallel with them..



Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Soooo........the Vfr800 rim I bought turns out to be a 16" Cbr900RR front rim.:2up: I didn't notice it until I took the front 17" tire off the Vfr750 I have and the tire practically fell over the 16" rim. So now I'm back to looking for a 17" Vfr rim plus trying to resell the 900RR rim since it's been more than 2 weeks and the seller won't take a return.

I'm hoping that when I do get a proper 17" rim my axle spacers and brake adapters will still work but I doubt it. :doh:

Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm in a holding pattern for a front rim, so I forced myself to finish up the rest of the tubing for the shock mount. I cut a small thin sheet metal brace off the frame and replaced it with a cross-tube a bit lower. I assume the stock piece was to keep the frame loops from spreading which mine will also do. Then I tackled the top right tube and then finally the top left tube. I'm going to have to find a professional welder to finish welding everything together as I've read chromoly needs to be TIG'd to mild steel to reduce stress and cracks.

From the back


From the top


From the side


Also the seat/tank hold down bracket bolts had been replaced with 6mm bolts that look like they were welded on by a 6 year old kid with a stick welder. I cut off the yucky stuff and drilled 8mm holes in the correct location. I then machined down the head some short 8mm flange bolts and welded them on. I think they look much better and fit the 8mm holes in the bracket better than the smaller studs.





Today's parts total:
$0 - I already had the bolts in my hardware tub.

Later, Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Made my way back into the chilly garage today. Luckily I had enough propane left to get me almost all the way through the tasks I did today.

I was browsing eBay a good bit ago for some modern-ish rearsets for the GPz since the upper left mount for the stock bracket was interfering with the swingarm. I was looking at the cheap Chinese ones when I stumbled upon some "ZX12 CG REARSETS ADJUSTABLE" for $99.99 or Make Offer so I made an offer...and the seller accepted it.

For the left side, I placed the rearset as far back as I could so that I could see how close to the swingarm the lever bracket would be. Then I set the right to as far forward as possible to see side-cover interference with the master cylinder mount. Then it was a balance game to make sure I could place the mounting bungs in the same spot on both sides of the chassis. Here's the final result.





The Gilles rearsets came missing a few parts, including a left peg and shifter lever, so I had to order a lever bearing, a toe peg, and shift lever. I could have ordered a left peg but I had some left over aftermarket pegs from my Kz900 project that I decided to try and use. I cut off the pivot and then drilled and tapped for a M8 bolt. Works well and was way cheaper than ordering an actual replacement peg.


I fired up the Hobart welder and finished welding the mounting bungs. I stood on the pegs and felt no flexing and heard no cracking/groaning from the welds. I believe they're solid enough for me.

Final result...



And I couldn't help myself so here's a small sneak peek of something I will be fabbing toward the end of the build.


Today's parts total:
$75.00 - Zx12 Gilles rearsets
$47.81 - Shift lever bearing
$47.45 - Shift lever and toe piece (not delivered)
$3.60 - Mounting bolts
$0.00 - Pegs (left over from Kz project)
$0.00 - Threaded bungs (left over from Kz project)

Later, Doug
 
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