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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All, yeah, as title, been pushed into getting back on my beloved 599 hornet, we jus completed a build of a old skool Triumph Bonnie, and it spurred me back into life

this bike has been with me thru thick and thin, over 10 years, I luv it and I jus wanna mod it to suit my idea of a modern hornet, but this will be a budget build as I don't intend on spending fortunes here

over the years I have made various parts for the bike, and do mostly my own work, I am a cnc machinist and have made parts for others for years now, my other bikes a street triple and you'll see more of that here too

onto what we did so far, old skool 98 hornet, 16" front wheel ( don't wanna change it..)
engine is std we made our own crash protectors, and I started to paint it in Vauxhall blue, then tore it down to redo the back end for something minimal, std wheels, 03 std cb shock, std forks with hagon springs and uprated oil, homemade yokes and risers, homemade hornet racecup style rearsets, underbelly exhaust, we also have a belly pan for it, renthal lows, single small light, up front I want to fit new digital clocks and fab a new cowl in ally plate, also gonna fit some early blade nissin 4 pots up front on carrier hangers

up back we started to make a sheet metal subframe/battery box, a short zedbutt style seat..all in the making as we speak..more to follow

I was watching Grouches hornet with interest as it jus what I wanted for my tail, so I went out and hacked it off before I changed my mind : )
and here we are..


hope y follow the build
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
cheers Robbo : )
wasn't sure how to do that here

subframes being made, 3mm ally plate construction..pics will follow
and should have an update later today, I turned 4 spigots for the frame, which are screwed together with m10 studding for extra strength, I have kept the subframe closer to the frame, and want to avoid to much extra bracing
I also added some spacer supports for the subframe further back to help stop any sideways flex, and seats on the way

the airbox also needed modding as the subframe goes over the edge of the frame line, so I cut a small slither off and also I cut out the battery mount as I want it hidden, I glued in some thin ally plate to cover the aperture hole, also made a snorkel hole cover as I don't want the snorkel anymore

so hopefully updates as we do the work
 

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Hey, I have one of those in the garage!
Gonna keep an eye on this one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok, its raining here in the UK, so been stuck in my shed making stuff, heres some pics of the subframe design we have for the project
3mm alloy plate, the main stays(sides) have bent edges to stiffen the whole thing up when bolted in, it will bolt in via 4 M10 bolts

we are still workin on some details and the final battery position has to be set
the integrity of the whole frame relies on the addition of the top and bottom plates as well as the bolted in stiffness, there is a ring of M5 csk screws up top and more M5s on the underside insert plate

added to this assembly will be more outrigger stuff for the taillight assy, but the tail assy will again be intergrated into the seat for less parts, each part will depend on the other as is proper engineering practice, it keeps things minimal
we looked at all the other sheet style frames out there for inspiration and I have seen 3mm lightweight frames for the SVs but I don't like just a simple radius around the hole as it seems too minimal to me and theres no provision for tear-out of the hole, on our frame we bent the sides over as it both stiffens and helps with the tear-out and you need to remove a lot more material before a tear-out happens
no idea on weights yet just feeling this thing as we go, but then the tray has a multi-purpose as opposed to just a frame
we also modded some M10 button heads to create our own flange buttons





 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
managed to get outside to test fit the new subframe, a few tweeks later and it was on

need to weld in the battery supports and figure out battery lines etc and rear loom position
but its very minimal and sits jus as I want it
waiting for the seat to arrive before I can go any further

tank lugs have now been removed, gonna make a seat pan and blend it into the tank lines








 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Captain, yeah its a lush blue, Vauxhall aruba blue, looked at loads of blues and it was my fav, its all gone pretty basic in the paint as its easy to repair/maintain as opposed to a flip etc

still gonna repaint the seat when it arrives and i might redo the calipers also, but thinkin of changing out the rear to a mini brembo

as for the subframe, its all about neatness for me, factory looking : )
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
hi Shiny, yeah, don't over do it tho, cos it makes the hex weak, I redid em a bit less severe and there fine, we also turn back the hex bolts and use a ball nose cutter to scollup em out, it makes cheaper bolts look trick : )
but again you have to be careful not to go too deep with the bullnose, else you can make the bolt head weak
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi Steve, didn't see that on yours, luv that bike BTW, yeah I wanted the subframe light as poss, its tricky getting enough strength everywhere, it runs 3mm top and sides and 2mm bottom plate, fold the sides top and bottom for stiffness, I gotta weld in the battery retainers which will add in some strength at its weakest , sideways above the shock, I used m5 fastners top and bottom, its very stiff when bolted together, but it relies on all parts to work, should be fine : )

I first saw the idea on a very trick D675 racebike done in carbon and luv the idea, the rear light cluster will hopefully hang off the seatunit at the rear, and its just the mini water overflow that will take any other space

plan is finish the seat install, drop the engine out, weld in all the bosses, powder frame, back together and fit clocks and make front cowl, paint it..ride it : )
 
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